Lotus Elan

Best Drive shafts..???

PostPost by: pauljones » Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:20 pm

I know this is going to open up a can off worms and be subject to every bodys opinion,but the question has to be asked...what are the best drive shafts to get and from who? these will be to replace mine on a plus 2 so i dont get an MOT fail.

Many thanks,Paul.
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PostPost by: peterako » Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:41 pm

Horses for courses?

What's your intended use?

I, personally, am a big fan of my Mick Miller CV driveshafts....but my car is 'just' for (everyday) road use.

Others swear by Dave Bean, TT etc.....

What's the 'best' anything??

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PostPost by: Carlos A » Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:57 pm

Hi Paul. My mechanic and friend George Ross studied three different CV conversions and concluded that the best one was Col Croucher's race-quality CVs (http://www.elantrikbits.com/index.html) followed by the one sold by RD Enterprises (http://www.rdent.com/). RD's product is similar to the one sold by Dave Bean and Miller. The third hybrid solution by Spyder combines rubber and steel (the inner rubber drive couplings are changed to Spyder fail safe/anti-surge type). So after the conversion you end up driving a car with 'doughnuts' (2 instead of 4).

IMPORTANT:

1) The advantage of Col's is weight and an incredible precise (almost neurotic) craftsmanship.

2) The advantage of Ray's (RD enterprises) is that it includes the differential output shafts which is good since the original ones are sooner or later going to fracture after 40 years or use.

* I combined Col's CV kit with Ray's shafts.... I am happy but I think it is cheaper to buy RD's complete kit.

My friend Phil Trusty (who was an active member of this forum until recently) also got Col's CVs and he is happy with the results (as far as I know) so you can contact him about his experience.

Best Carlos
Last edited by Carlos A on Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: memini55 » Thu Mar 04, 2010 6:49 pm

Could not say it any better than Carlos, add another very happy user of Col's great product. Multiple user I might add! Great product. Mark
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PostPost by: pauljones » Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:14 pm

Thanks guys,not only was that a quick reply but I never Knew about these people before.Is that a Spyder chassis in those photo's???

I was thinking more on the lines of the Mick/Sue Miller VS TTR VS Spyders own.

Strangely,i thought the perrished rubbers were off my own plus 2.almost identical to the pics...!!!

Ill expect a few will know about the others so ill wait for a bit but they do look nice,the car will be road use only,but maybe a bit off a quick sprint now and again.

Thanks all..
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:31 pm

Archives? :roll:
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PostPost by: Carlos A » Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:48 am

Dear Paul:

Today we have more CV-conversion options than three or four years ago. I am sure many other members of this forum will be happy to share with you their experiences with the 5 or 6 options available in the market, so you can make an informed decision. That is what is so great about this forum; you can find so much knowledge and good will from all around the world in one fun and friendly place. Carlos
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:14 am

I have been admonished for the brevity of my previous post. :(

If you check the archives you will find hundreds, if not thousands of pieces of advice on this subject, there is a thread here:
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/elan-f14/driveshafts-t19803.html

to which the last post was only added two weeks ago.
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PostPost by: peterako » Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:02 am

Hi again,

May be of use to know that I have my Mick Miller CV's on for 20,000+ miles now with no problems :)

Which ever option you choose WILL change the car's characteristics (in my opinion for the better) from a pure Donut version.

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PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:13 am

Carlos

You are so very right,there is a wealth of opinion,some good some bad.and this is the place to find not only information but mostly good constructive opinion.So thanks for your input,as for finding archived info,I'm not that good at that part although working on it.Ive tried to find pics of the other products but cant seem to find any,can anyone help on that part??? Mick Millers seems to have a good fit and forget reputation so these are looking favourites.

Thanks all...

Paul
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PostPost by: davidj » Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:27 pm

Hi,

I have heard about some replacement driveshafts similar to the Mick Miller design but which also replace the Diff output shafts with a more beefy design directly connected to the CV joint. This is an advantage, as these are prone to failure, plus the whole assembly is longer as the inner CV joint in nearer to the diff, so the angular movement of the CV joints is less when the wheel goes up and down.

However, I think they are only available in the states. Anyone else have any ideas?

David
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PostPost by: ppnelan » Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:30 pm

pauljones915 wrote:...these will be to replace mine on a plus 2 so i dont get an MOT fail.
Paul, if you're considering replacing donuts because they are nearly 'dead', you may like to know that the MoT test does NOT include them in the failure criteria! If they were at the steered end of the car, it would be different... I usually change mine AFTER the test if they 'on their way out', since the inspection procedure of leaving the wheels at full droop for a few minutes does them no good at all... :evil:

:arrow: Matthew
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:44 pm

davidj wrote:Hi,

I have heard about some replacement driveshafts similar to the Mick Miller design but which also replace the Diff output shafts with a more beefy design directly connected to the CV joint. This is an advantage, as these are prone to failure, plus the whole assembly is longer as the inner CV joint in nearer to the diff, so the angular movement of the CV joints is less when the wheel goes up and down.

However, I think they are only available in the states. Anyone else have any ideas?

David


David, I think you are referring to the one's from Ray at RD Enterprises. Another lister mentioned in a previous thread who actually manufactures them, I believe in California. Here is a link to a photo of my install. Pretty sure Ray would not have a problem shipping them pretty much anywhere, but you raise a good point; might want to check shipping costs as these things are quite heavy. Minor issue with install, but overall a quality product. Might want to consider installing the diff brace upgrade at the same time; Ray lists the part on his site if your car does not have this.

Ray is very good at providing price and availability info by email prior to order finalization, and if you request shipping cost estimate in the parts request I am pretty sure he will accommodate. Don't know the deal for other countries, but for Canada if the supplier puts "Vintage Car Parts, Over 35 Years Old" on the Customs Invoice on the outside of the package there is no Customs and Excise duty cost, just GST (our equivalent of the dreaded VAT). He will also ship by USPS if requested (subject to package size), which saves a ton on brokerage fees.

elan-plus-f13/never-use-your-rotoflexes-t18362.html


Here is a link to another earlier discussion of the topic with some comments on installation of the Sue Miller components.

elan-f15/joint-conversion-t19365.html

Paul, I agree with Carlos above about the advantage/disadvantage of the various products. I went with the RD one's partially because of the ease of ordering and shipping to Canada and inclusion with an order of other parts, so YMMV. Like most folks, I only have direct experience with one product, so side by side comparo is based on comments here. In any case, I expect they all work better than the original. :)
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PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Mar 05, 2010 6:14 pm

Stu,
Ive got the pleasure of a 4 month trip to Canada with work,amazingly not to far away from your city.some time round late june,would there be a chance we could meet up and i could have a look at yours.?I know its a while away,but better to do proper research..

Paul
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PostPost by: Stuart+2 » Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:28 pm

Paul

I echo the statements supporting Col Croucher's drive shafts.

I fitted them 3 years ago and 10,000 miles have gone by. No issues.

Cheers
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