gear box install - engine insitu
6 posts
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Dear all,
i know this may be an old topic - but can someone remind me the sequence of twisting, shuffling the gearbox in position with the engine in position as I seem to forgotten how I did it last time.
I am at the stage where I have the bellhousing past the clutch plate and trying to line up the spline shaft to hit the centre of the clutch plate.
Any tips on how to to twist and turn in sequence along with requisite gentle talk into position !!!!!
Thanks
i know this may be an old topic - but can someone remind me the sequence of twisting, shuffling the gearbox in position with the engine in position as I seem to forgotten how I did it last time.
I am at the stage where I have the bellhousing past the clutch plate and trying to line up the spline shaft to hit the centre of the clutch plate.
Any tips on how to to twist and turn in sequence along with requisite gentle talk into position !!!!!
Thanks
- nico506
- Second Gear
- Posts: 105
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
If you did it before you are one of the few who has! I did it once, in 1977 I think, but that was a long time ago, and I have no idea how I did it. It sounds like you are almost there - keep on twisting and turning, but forget the gentle talk - swear like a sailor, insult Colin Chapman's mother, whatever - it will help. And good luck.
Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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RotoFlexible - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 621
- Joined: 01 Sep 2005
Adjust the alignment of the gearbox and engine so the gap is even all around and use a couple of long bolts to line up the bolt holes. This should have the primary shaft lined up with the clutch disk properly. Push the engine as far as it will go. It normally hangs up when the splines of the 2 components meet, then rotate the engine crank while holding the gear box locked in a gear fractionally until the splines align and then it should slip in smoothly with a bit more pushing.
In practice accompany this with sufficient swearing and it all goes together.
cheers
Rohan
In practice accompany this with sufficient swearing and it all goes together.
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8413
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Yes if you have had the clutch apart you need to ensure the clutch plate is properly aligned with the crank pilot bearing when reassembled. Universal alignment tools are available at low cost from most tool suppliers. Alternatively measure and eyeball it to ensure aligment when you bolt the clutch back together on the flywheel.
If not aligned you will struggle to get the engine and gear box to mate.
cheers
Rohan
If not aligned you will struggle to get the engine and gear box to mate.
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8413
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
I've done it two or three times. First, make sure the gearbox is supported from below, preferable with a hydraulic jack so that you can make height adjustments. The engine goes straight down until the front of the sump contacts the crossmember. Then drop the rear of the engine down until the tranny mainshaft aligns with the clutch face - just so they'll connect; there will be an angularity difference at this point unless you're lucky.
Then work the engine backwards, keeping the mainshaft pointing at the clutch bearing. When the engine finally clears the crossmember, the mainshaft should have entered the clutch bearing (you did align the clutch first, didn't you?). Then play with the height adjustments - engine and gearbox - until it looks like a straight shot, which it probably won't be.
You'll probably have to turn the engine by hand (or twist the drive shaft if that's possible) to line up the splines on mainshaft and clutch. Then it should slip right in. But it won't, if your experience is anything like mine. As a last resort, try to get two bolts through both block and bell housing and gradually tighten them until you can get the two faces aligned. If you have to start with longer bolts, you can replace them with the proper ones when the units are closer together.
DO NOT DO THIS WITH CARBURETORS IN PLACE!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck.
Then work the engine backwards, keeping the mainshaft pointing at the clutch bearing. When the engine finally clears the crossmember, the mainshaft should have entered the clutch bearing (you did align the clutch first, didn't you?). Then play with the height adjustments - engine and gearbox - until it looks like a straight shot, which it probably won't be.
You'll probably have to turn the engine by hand (or twist the drive shaft if that's possible) to line up the splines on mainshaft and clutch. Then it should slip right in. But it won't, if your experience is anything like mine. As a last resort, try to get two bolts through both block and bell housing and gradually tighten them until you can get the two faces aligned. If you have to start with longer bolts, you can replace them with the proper ones when the units are closer together.
DO NOT DO THIS WITH CARBURETORS IN PLACE!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck.
Art Frederick
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
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frearther - Third Gear
- Posts: 375
- Joined: 23 Sep 2003
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