Engine to gearbox plate

[gav]

Hi all

Thanks for the suggestions on the carpets. I did try to download a cad package from the web but still couldn't get it to work. I'll resort to the Christmas wrapping solution.

On a different point:

Does anyone know...what is the purpose of the plate which separates the engine from the gearbox and is it's thickness important?

Why - because my bellhousing is slightly warped and is currently being milled. If the 1st motion shaft is a tight fit, my plan was to use a slightly thicker plate to restore the tolerances.

Thanks
Gavin

[ppnelan]

Re: Reading AutoCAD files - try www.deltacad.com/demo.html

Matthew

[rgh0]

The plate serves 3 purposes

1. It provides a ductile steel surface for the cast iron block and bell housing to join to. This reduces the risk of cracking the rigid cast iron block or bellhousing due to machining imperfections

2. It provides a locating hole for the starter motor to aid its alignment

3. It forms part of the lower shield that covers the lower section of the flywheel.

Broke my arm skiing in Japan last week so cant go out and easily measure the thickness sorry

cheers
Rohan

[garyeanderson]

The dust shield/plate thickness is 1/16 or .062 inch or so.

Gary

[gav]

Rohan

Thanks for the explanation

Does the material matter? (Would a slightly thicker Ally do the same job?)

Matthew

Thanks for the link. This one worked.

Regards
Gavin

[oldokie]

Rohan,
Sorry to hear about your arm, get well soon!

[rgh0]

An aluminium sheet would be ok provided it is not too soft

cheers
Rohan

[robb4100]

I just pulled the engine and you should know that therr are two posts on hte block that align with holes on the bell housing. those to post were essential to properly aligning the block and bell housing. IIRC the posts are onl aobut 1/4" so I would be careful about making he new plate too thick.
robb

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

I think it depends on how much material is removed from the bell housing during the clean up.
If it's not too much then the original blanking plate should still be OK.
If it's a lot then I would worry about the strengh of the remaining gearbox flange thickness & the threaded holes in it for e.g. starter motor.
There's plenty of length on the splines for the clutch plate & the clutch release bearing clearance should easily fall within the amount of adjustment available on the slave cylinder push rod
The main thing that I would check is that the spigot on the gearbox input shaft does not bottom out in the rear end of the crankshaft.
That can be checked with simple measurements on the parts themselves.
I don't envy you trying to make a new plate
Good luck
John

Rohan,
Snow in Australia
Get well soon

[gav]

Thanks everyone for all your advice

I too am concious about the remaining metal on the bellhousing so I'll decide what to do once I can see how much has been milled off to restore a square face.

All the best
Gavin