Jumping out of gear
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Hi
I have a series 4 Elan which I use for sprinting and hillclimbing, during the last two events when rounding curves in third gear with the engine under some load, it came out of gear, the gear stick seems free and it goes into gear easily Have taken the box out, looked at the springs and ball bearings but as I am ignorant in gearbox matters What do I do now??
Any suggestions please.
Dave
I have a series 4 Elan which I use for sprinting and hillclimbing, during the last two events when rounding curves in third gear with the engine under some load, it came out of gear, the gear stick seems free and it goes into gear easily Have taken the box out, looked at the springs and ball bearings but as I am ignorant in gearbox matters What do I do now??
Any suggestions please.
Dave
- sprinterdave
- New-tral
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 15 Dec 2003
Dave,
the G/box hasn't moved a little bit forward for any reason has it?
The lower part of the lever with the rubber bush can be very close to the console cover+ gear lever gaiter, which can prevent full engagement & slipping out of gear.
John
the G/box hasn't moved a little bit forward for any reason has it?
The lower part of the lever with the rubber bush can be very close to the console cover+ gear lever gaiter, which can prevent full engagement & slipping out of gear.
John
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Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
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GrUmPyBoDgEr - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 29 Oct 2004
Thanks for the idea, I don't think it has moved fairly new mountings for engine and box. I checked the plastic gaiter for fouling and again seemed ok.
- sprinterdave
- New-tral
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 15 Dec 2003
- check the big nut on the main shaft just outside the rear bearing. If it comes loose for some reason, you get what you describe....
Dag
Dag
Elan S1 -64/ Elan race-replica 26R / Works Escort TwinCam -69/ Brabham BT41 Holbay
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Dag-Henning - Third Gear
- Posts: 330
- Joined: 30 Sep 2004
4. JUMPING OUT OF GEAR
a . Disengagement of gear on drive or overrun:
Checks with gearbox still in car: Check gear linkage adjustment. Ensure that there are no damaged or distorted components and that there is no excessive free movement. Check for broken or cross-threaded gear lever cap (see also Service Bulletin 1970/10). Replace any necessary component's and adjust linkage. Note: If linkage is adjusted and the problem is cured, there is normally no need to take further action. Consideration should however, be given to removing the gearbox to rectify any damage to the gearbox components caused by the 'jump out' . Ensure there is adequate clearance between the gear lever and the centre console, with the lever in gear. Replace cap or lever as necessary.
Checks with gearbox removed from car: Ensure there is adequate clearance at each end of the selector rails in gear and also at the over-run stop when the gear is engaged. Ensure that the interlock plungers and detent ball are free and fully seating in the groove in the rails. Remove the gearbox top cover and check the selector mechanism. Fit selector rail with solid end (Part No. 2824E-7K335-A).
Forward gears only: Check the mainshaft end-float. It should not exceed .030 in. (.76 mm.). Remove the mainshaft assembly and dismantle the area required (i.e. if it jumps out of 1st. gear remove the components associated with 1st gear). Check that the tab washer retaining the mainshaft nut is intact. The tab washer should prevent the nut from turning. If the bearing is retained by a circlip, ensure that the circlip directly behind the mainshaft bearing is of the correct type and is correctly seated in its groove. Examine the gear and sleeve dog teeth for back-angling (1st and 3rd gears only), which must be evenly disposed. Check ail dog teeth for damage (chipped teeth etc.) Check that the sleeve is a good sliding fit on the hub. If either the gear or the sleeve is damaged, then the damaged component and the synchro ring should be renewed. Examine the appropriate selector fork for wear. If the wear is excessive, then the forks should be renewed. Ensure the selector forks are fitted the correct way around. Check hub and sleeve assembly for damage and renew if necessary.
Reverse gear only: Check that the reverse idler gear can be fully engaged with both mainshaft and countershaft gears. Ensure that the idler gear bush is correctly positioned in the bore of the gear and not misplaced. Cheek that the bush is a good fit on the idler shaft. If the idler gear is damaged it should be renewed. Also check associated components (cluster gear, 1st/2nd hub and sleeve assembly, etc.), which may have been damaged. Check that the 1st/2nd gear sleeve is a sliding fit on its hub. Replace gear and bush assembly.
a . Disengagement of gear on drive or overrun:
Checks with gearbox still in car: Check gear linkage adjustment. Ensure that there are no damaged or distorted components and that there is no excessive free movement. Check for broken or cross-threaded gear lever cap (see also Service Bulletin 1970/10). Replace any necessary component's and adjust linkage. Note: If linkage is adjusted and the problem is cured, there is normally no need to take further action. Consideration should however, be given to removing the gearbox to rectify any damage to the gearbox components caused by the 'jump out' . Ensure there is adequate clearance between the gear lever and the centre console, with the lever in gear. Replace cap or lever as necessary.
Checks with gearbox removed from car: Ensure there is adequate clearance at each end of the selector rails in gear and also at the over-run stop when the gear is engaged. Ensure that the interlock plungers and detent ball are free and fully seating in the groove in the rails. Remove the gearbox top cover and check the selector mechanism. Fit selector rail with solid end (Part No. 2824E-7K335-A).
Forward gears only: Check the mainshaft end-float. It should not exceed .030 in. (.76 mm.). Remove the mainshaft assembly and dismantle the area required (i.e. if it jumps out of 1st. gear remove the components associated with 1st gear). Check that the tab washer retaining the mainshaft nut is intact. The tab washer should prevent the nut from turning. If the bearing is retained by a circlip, ensure that the circlip directly behind the mainshaft bearing is of the correct type and is correctly seated in its groove. Examine the gear and sleeve dog teeth for back-angling (1st and 3rd gears only), which must be evenly disposed. Check ail dog teeth for damage (chipped teeth etc.) Check that the sleeve is a good sliding fit on the hub. If either the gear or the sleeve is damaged, then the damaged component and the synchro ring should be renewed. Examine the appropriate selector fork for wear. If the wear is excessive, then the forks should be renewed. Ensure the selector forks are fitted the correct way around. Check hub and sleeve assembly for damage and renew if necessary.
Reverse gear only: Check that the reverse idler gear can be fully engaged with both mainshaft and countershaft gears. Ensure that the idler gear bush is correctly positioned in the bore of the gear and not misplaced. Cheek that the bush is a good fit on the idler shaft. If the idler gear is damaged it should be renewed. Also check associated components (cluster gear, 1st/2nd hub and sleeve assembly, etc.), which may have been damaged. Check that the 1st/2nd gear sleeve is a sliding fit on its hub. Replace gear and bush assembly.
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Hi
I am now suspecting that the springs which hold the ball bearings in the selector arm are a little worn. The manual states these should be .335/375 proud of the gasket, mine are .280 without a gasket.
Haven't checkedthe big nut yet. Thanks
I am now suspecting that the springs which hold the ball bearings in the selector arm are a little worn. The manual states these should be .335/375 proud of the gasket, mine are .280 without a gasket.
Haven't checkedthe big nut yet. Thanks
- sprinterdave
- New-tral
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 15 Dec 2003
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