BLEEDING THE CLUTCH LINE
4 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Two weeks ago we ran the local MGA club's annual Gymkhana/time trial
at Floyd Bennett Field in Brooklyn and the S4 has been the garage
since. We loaded it up today for another MG club's Fall Foliage ride
on Long Island, hopped in the car and the clutch pedal went to the
floor with no resistance at all. A quick check under the dash did
not find anything amiss, so I popped the hood and found the fluid
reservoir totally empty. No indication of any leaks, no puddles or
brake fluid smell. It was probably running low and the current dumb
owner (me) did not check it often enough.
Anyway - I can use some tips on bleeding the line. I've read the
manual and it seems like an easy job once I get the front of the car
high enough so I can reach the bleed screw. My question: the line
between the master cylinder and the slave looks like a braided steel
hose which makes a loop as it leaves the master cylinder and runs
down the side of the engine. How can I be sure there is no air left
in the top of this loop?
I assume that once I get the air (or most of the air) out of the
system I'll be able to get the car to someone with a vacuum bleeder
but I'd like to be able to get the air out by myself.
Any suggestions?
I also have to find out where the fluid went, but unless it's a major
leak, that is secondary at this time.
I also got my first flat the day after the time trial - it was flat
in the garage. These are the first problems I've had in three years
and both were in the garage. This car is very considerate!
Steve B.
PS: we did the Foliage Run in the X1/9. Slower but still fun in the
twisties.
at Floyd Bennett Field in Brooklyn and the S4 has been the garage
since. We loaded it up today for another MG club's Fall Foliage ride
on Long Island, hopped in the car and the clutch pedal went to the
floor with no resistance at all. A quick check under the dash did
not find anything amiss, so I popped the hood and found the fluid
reservoir totally empty. No indication of any leaks, no puddles or
brake fluid smell. It was probably running low and the current dumb
owner (me) did not check it often enough.
Anyway - I can use some tips on bleeding the line. I've read the
manual and it seems like an easy job once I get the front of the car
high enough so I can reach the bleed screw. My question: the line
between the master cylinder and the slave looks like a braided steel
hose which makes a loop as it leaves the master cylinder and runs
down the side of the engine. How can I be sure there is no air left
in the top of this loop?
I assume that once I get the air (or most of the air) out of the
system I'll be able to get the car to someone with a vacuum bleeder
but I'd like to be able to get the air out by myself.
Any suggestions?
I also have to find out where the fluid went, but unless it's a major
leak, that is secondary at this time.
I also got my first flat the day after the time trial - it was flat
in the garage. These are the first problems I've had in three years
and both were in the garage. This car is very considerate!
Steve B.
PS: we did the Foliage Run in the X1/9. Slower but still fun in the
twisties.
Steve B.<br>1969 Elan S4
- poiuyt
- Second Gear
- Posts: 104
- Joined: 23 Feb 2004
Anyways, this reminds me of the time a friend came over in his MG
Midget. We talked about cars, had a few beers, a while later he went to
leave and the clutch pedal went to the floor. Upon examination he had
the infamous red hose that got a little to close to the engine and
melted. So we took my car went down to the auto shop, got some steel
line and fittings, bent it up and installed new tubing. After that we
must have spent two hours trying to get that thing bleed correctly.
Could not get all the air out of the line. Finally, I hooked up a tow
chain and towed his car to a shop near his house. The mechanic put a pan
under the slave cylinder, opened the bleed screw and let it bleed
itself. Next morning it worked fine. Sometimes patience is the
key......
Dave Sutcliffe
Midget. We talked about cars, had a few beers, a while later he went to
leave and the clutch pedal went to the floor. Upon examination he had
the infamous red hose that got a little to close to the engine and
melted. So we took my car went down to the auto shop, got some steel
line and fittings, bent it up and installed new tubing. After that we
must have spent two hours trying to get that thing bleed correctly.
Could not get all the air out of the line. Finally, I hooked up a tow
chain and towed his car to a shop near his house. The mechanic put a pan
under the slave cylinder, opened the bleed screw and let it bleed
itself. Next morning it worked fine. Sometimes patience is the
key......
Dave Sutcliffe
- daves56
- First Gear
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 13 Oct 2003
I believe this should be your pimary concern because when you fill the
resevoir to bleed, it's going to come out again from somewhere and I
suspect a bad master cylinder and your carpet is now soaked with brake
fluid. I'd say go ahead and rebuild/replace both the master and slave
before you bleed.
Greg Z
'72 Sprint
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
-
gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3022
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
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