Crunchy gearbox

[Gasman]

Dear all,
It has taken about three years from getting my gearbox rebuilt to get my +2 on the road. The box always felt tight after the rebuild but now rally crunches if I try 1st or reverse and is stiff changing up and down.
Worst thoughts are rust and the need to take it out and strip it down.

Anyone with an alternative solution/thoughts would save my summer.

Cheers
Mark

[types26/36]

Mark,
I wouldn't have thought rust would be the problem unless you left it outside in the rain, even if it were not full of oil whoever rebuilt the box would have had at least a coat of oil/lubrication on the components when it was assembled.
The way you describe the problem it sounds more like a clutch issue, if the engine is not running does it go into the gears O.K. ? how does the clutch feel ?

[Gasman]

I should have mentioned this, I have been at the clutch ad nuaseam. I have bled it multiple times, travel at the slave is about 1". Then I have adjusted it until it slips when under load. The clutch feels normal with no play at the foot box. Still it crunches.

The box was always in a well ventilated garage and turned over with oil in fairly regularly.

I wondered if a light coat of rust on the splines would stop the synchros working and sort of hoped that things would improve with wear, but they haven't.

It is stiff when with the engine off.

Any other suggestions?

Mark

[alaric]

Is there oil in the box? My rebuilt gearboxe was shipped empty of oil. Otherwise it does sound like the clutch not disengaging properly. Is the actuator arm adjusted properly? Also, I had a lot of trouble getting the clutch master cylinder to work, and I've seen other posts recently about the master cylinder not working - may just be that. Isn't there a figure in the manual for the displacement from the slave cylinder - worth checking that as it's all external stuff and in principle easy to fix.

Sean.

[Gasman]

Topped up with oil as per manual.
I have looked through the manual and there is nothing on how far the actuating rod should move but from previous postings I think an inch should be adequate. I ahve adjusted the clutch way beyond what the manual suggests ( basically until it slips and back a bit)

I have a horrible feeling I'm heading for engine out!

Mark

[alaric]

If you think it's rust or oil on the clutch, then before taking the engine out is it worth sticking it in third gear while stationary with your foot hard on the brake, and slipping the clutch to burn the crud off. If that's the problem this should make a difference. You could whip the dirt cover off the bottom of the bell housing and shine a torch up to take a look at the condition.

Sean.