TTR diff mounts and driveshafts

[steveww]

Anyone else out there fiited the TTR driveshafts (UJ) and stiffer diff mounts?

I have just done this upgrade to my S4 and all appears to be working well and the improvement in transmission line shunt etc is great. However this weekend I was out for a blast and got caught in a rain shower so had to put the roof up. Driving with the lack of wind noise there is now a definite whine coming from the diff. This was not present last autumn before the car was put away for the winter. I have checked that all the bolts are tight and the oil in the diff is up to level and fresh.

My theory is that the stiffer diff mounts are transmitting more noise in to the chasis. Anyone else experience this?

[Maulden7]

I have been running a full solid TT rear end - with his diff mounts - for several years on my 1965 S2 Elan and it has not caused any problems / noise from the diff. The diff was removed recently, & sent to Tony for him to rebuild to accomodate a Quaife LSD, and all this has worked fine. Nothing unexpected needed to be replaced, but bearings, seals etc were renewed as a matter of course. I do however suspect that the direct stresses passed into the diff without the rubber couplings / softer diff mounts, will quite quickly expose any wearing parts directly connected

[brassringfarm]

I have the TTR driveshafts in my 65 S2, but not the stiffer Diff Mounts. In the time I have driven the car since making the changeover - no problems or whining noises. It could be noise transmission via the stiffer mounts mounts, but I think they would have to be dramatically different to make enough noise that you could really notice it.
Paul Zimmerman
65 S2

[steveww]

I have my doubts that it is excessive wear as the car has only done about 50 miles since installing the driveshafts and diff mounts. I might swap out the TTR mounts and go back to the original ones to see if the noise goes.....

The diff has been rebuilt in the past I need to try and guess how many miles ago....

[elansprint71]

I fitted Mick Miller shafts and new top diff mounts (from Spyder), these were knackered in about 1200 miles, diff was moving about and there was a loud metallic click when I changed gear or went on/off power.
Fitted TT heavy duty mounts, diff now does not move about, these are a "proper job" whereas the standard ones are now made from crap rubber, much like the rotoflexes these days.

Cheers,
Pete.

[Hamish Coutts]

Steve,

Fitted TTR drive shafts and diff mounts to my +2 about 18 months ago. Best thing I ever did to the Elan. That damned doughnut surge was crap.

Apart from a slightly whiney gear box (which I have always had) and normal gear whine from the diff there is no other transmission noise... and unlike you I have a permanent 'hardtop'.

Hamish.

[triumphelan]

With the top down on my S4 there is no strange sounds but with it up the clicks/clunks /knocks & wind noise makes me go "topless" most of the time

[steveww]

I have had a good look around the diff and the casing is only 2-3mm clear of the bottom of the chasis. Could be that under load it is coming in to contact with the chasis and thus transmitting the noise

Looks as though the chasis has been bent up slightly in this area due to previous bad jacking. I am thinking that may be I can bash it back to give a bit more space around the diff.

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hi Steveww,
I reckon you've hit the nail on the head there. 2-3mm clearance is extremely tight.
I think if you provide more clearance you will have cured the noise transmission problem.
Good luck.
John

[thor]

Hamish, how much of a big job is the combined change to the TTRdriveshafts + diff mounts. And how much, ?3-500 ?

[steveww]

For prices see TTR web site http://www.tonythompsonracing.co.uk/

Work wise: It took me a couple of weekends but I did also do a 2.25" spring conversion.

Tip: Once you have removed the rotoflex and the old driveshafts take the struts out as well. Then you can fit the outside part of the of the new driveshaft on the bench, this also gives you much more room to fit the inside part of the new driveshaft. Bolt the strut back on to the A arm and fold it up in to position bringing to 2 halves of the driveshaft together.

[Hamish Coutts]

Thor,

Fitting the new driveshafts was a damned easier than getting the old ones off.
There is also the question of fail safe pins, they have to be cut off of both the diff out put shafts and the inner face of the outer drive shafts. (The pins interfere with the flanges on the TTR driveshafts)

The new 'shafts bolt straight on once you've removed the pins. I would set aside a day at the weekend and do both sides at the same time.

As far as diff mounts are concerned, I had my tank out at the time so it was pretty easy. I'm not sure if you can do it with the tank in situ but it looks a pretty awkward job to do so. Perhaps some of the other guys know.

The difference in the car was amazing once everything was fitted.

Hamish.

[miked]

Yep,
Refiting the strut with the TTR outside drive shaft bit already fitted on is a dream. You can pull apart and reassmble a lot easier than the donut. I am well pleased with the TTR shafts. Only little niggle which has been posted before is the alignment of the holes on the outside when you have to go through the 3 items (hub shaft, disc and shaft flange). Subtle use of reamer is required. Othewise you seem to get two hole perfect and one out.

Mike

[thor]

This sounds fairly manageable! I'm starting to save up then..

Simpler tasks this week, as the yearly spring sports car show is on in Oslo sunday, the MOST important day of the year. Am fitting Cromadora mirrors (Dino) and newly chromed spinners, along with some pleasant Autoglym'ing..