Help me understand the Anti-Sizzle gear lever...
36 posts
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The bush is a one piece metalastic unit, which comprises an outer steel sleeve, a rubber bush and an inner steel sleeve. The rubber isolates the outer sleeve from the inner sleeve. So you don't bridge between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve. If you do with washers, nuts or anything else the gear-lever will have a direct connection to the gearbox and will vibrate (or sizzle). So the inner sleeve is clamped to the gearchange mechanism with the fixing nut and washers, and the washers outside diameter must be small enough to avoid contact with the outer sleeve and gear lever.
This
Matt
This
Matt
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
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Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 600
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
On the "rotating lever" problem, a few years ago I had that occurring after less that 10 hours use of a brand new part purchased from a purportedly reputable dealer (PM - though the man himself had already retired), where the rubber was not properly bonded to the outside sleeve.
They later acknowledged that they had suffered a quality issue from a batch fabricated in India IIRC, talked about sending a replacement part of an other batch that did not suffer the fabrication defect, but eventually in spite of several reminders I never got anything back, not even reply to mail.
It was not the first "quality control" issue I had with them (in spite of a hefty price tag for he reputation), not necessarily surprising in about 30 years of business, but always resolved in a considerate way so far... then at least I have one less line to plow through on my "trustworthy supplier list" for my next project...
They later acknowledged that they had suffered a quality issue from a batch fabricated in India IIRC, talked about sending a replacement part of an other batch that did not suffer the fabrication defect, but eventually in spite of several reminders I never got anything back, not even reply to mail.
It was not the first "quality control" issue I had with them (in spite of a hefty price tag for he reputation), not necessarily surprising in about 30 years of business, but always resolved in a considerate way so far... then at least I have one less line to plow through on my "trustworthy supplier list" for my next project...
S4SE 36/8198
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1998
- Joined: 02 Sep 2013
Has anyone tried a sotution to get rid of this rubber part?
I really don't like the feeling of this slack lever. With the Caterham and the G15, I am used to a very firm and direct shifting, I'm a little bit disapointed with the feel of the shifting on the Elan
I really don't like the feeling of this slack lever. With the Caterham and the G15, I am used to a very firm and direct shifting, I'm a little bit disapointed with the feel of the shifting on the Elan
Caterham 1600K SS
Paris, France
Paris, France
- zimzum
- First Gear
- Posts: 34
- Joined: 29 Oct 2009
If the washers are the correct size with just a small clearance on their outer rim to the gear lever when you move the gear lever they prevent excessive movement of the rubber bush and you get the firm gear change you are looking for without the rubber feel. As they inner and outer parts only touch when changing gear you dont get the gear lever sizzle when the lever is released.
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8413
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Zimzum,
You can get rid of the rubber bush in one of three ways.
1, I think TTR do a solid lever.
2, Some Cortina levers can be modified to fit.
3, A new lever can be machined from solid, apart from the side pins. If you know a good man with a lathe.
But, for road use the rubber bush lever is best IMHO. The solid lever is good for track work but it will sizzle when the oil is warm.
YMMV.
Cheers
John
You can get rid of the rubber bush in one of three ways.
1, I think TTR do a solid lever.
2, Some Cortina levers can be modified to fit.
3, A new lever can be machined from solid, apart from the side pins. If you know a good man with a lathe.
But, for road use the rubber bush lever is best IMHO. The solid lever is good for track work but it will sizzle when the oil is warm.
YMMV.
Cheers
John
- elanman999
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 500
- Joined: 12 Nov 2005
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