Clutch Mystery
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I've never had any luck with pumping, pressure bleeding, suction bleeding or whatever. The only thing that works without fail is wedging the pedal down overnight and it miraculously bleeds itself.
This also has the advantage of involving no work at all!
Robbie
This also has the advantage of involving no work at all!
Robbie
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Robbie693 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Robbie , I'm trying that tonight!
Well I checked the travel on the clutch and it seemed OK, the reason why I say seemed is that I tried this afternoon and it was better if I pumped twice.
Question - The slave cylinder isn't leaking and appears to be moving. Could it still be defective? (The bore was not great)
Thanks
Terry
Well I checked the travel on the clutch and it seemed OK, the reason why I say seemed is that I tried this afternoon and it was better if I pumped twice.
Question - The slave cylinder isn't leaking and appears to be moving. Could it still be defective? (The bore was not great)
Thanks
Terry
- terryp
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The best luck I have had is by pressure bleeding the clutch circuit. I use one of the gunson pressure bleeder kits.
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?code=G4062
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?code=G4062
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
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OK time for an update , Slave and Master are OK and working to maximum (Piston moves to the edge of the slave cylinder under the dust cover)
So I have to face facts and its probably the Clutch Plate stuck or sticking on the splines. I'm going to drive to car a bit to see if things free up (with my newly found leak on the sump!)
I'm going to start another thread on tips to take the engine out quickly just in case
Thanks to all
Terry
So I have to face facts and its probably the Clutch Plate stuck or sticking on the splines. I'm going to drive to car a bit to see if things free up (with my newly found leak on the sump!)
I'm going to start another thread on tips to take the engine out quickly just in case
Thanks to all
Terry
- terryp
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imho the leak you have on the sump is the problem when you drop the sump with the engine still in car.
Sorry to say but after 40 years of working on TC's i have learnt a few things (i hope)
If dropping the sump it is always better to remove the engine which lets you remove and replace, sealing correctly.
Good luck Terry and try to stay Zen
Alan
Sorry to say but after 40 years of working on TC's i have learnt a few things (i hope)
If dropping the sump it is always better to remove the engine which lets you remove and replace, sealing correctly.
Good luck Terry and try to stay Zen
Alan
Alan.B
- alan
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Could also be a slightly warped clutch plate; even a new one can be accidently bent when putting an engine back in. Another possibility is the pressure plate not lifting evenly, all worth a look.
Last edited by AussieJohn on Wed Apr 09, 2014 5:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- AussieJohn
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All will be reveled at the weekend when my Endoscope arrives!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231022530055? ... 1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231022530055? ... 1497.l2649
- terryp
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Well luckily as Rohan said it may free up it is ...freeing up. Its better every time I drive it. One thing that I have discovered is small flecks of turquise paint at the bottom of the bell housing and I seem to remember that the centre of the clutch plate from Susan Miller including the edge of the spline socket was painted turquise
So it would appear that the paint was making it stick
I fixed the sump leak but now have a head to block tube leak ........not sure now it was a sump leak
Hopefully will hit the road in a few weeks
Cheers
Terry
So it would appear that the paint was making it stick
I fixed the sump leak but now have a head to block tube leak ........not sure now it was a sump leak
Hopefully will hit the road in a few weeks
Cheers
Terry
- terryp
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