My Voigt 5-speed conversion

[1owner69Elan]

My light weight TTR body has the large, inline muffler cavity option, so can accommodate the larger case, probably with enough clearance for some insulation (Aerogel product), or at least a stainless radiation shield, with an air gap. This larger cavity reduces the boot volume such that the TTR gas tank is a little shorter for my car. Not too difficult to make a larger muffler cavity.

What is your exhaust diameter? I think I'm 1.25 inch OD.

Do you have as much of an interference at the T9 case peg, as I did?

Bill

At this point, having just gone ten months of paint I'm not motivated to make any body changes, like the muffler cavity option.

My exhaust diameter at the end is 2.25 inch, TTR Race Systems (above 165 bhp) bore. With the newer muffler it will actually transition to 2.5" at the muffler.

The jury is still out on the clearance to the casting peg on the T9. But, I have a downward kink in my exhaust pipe, I think, right at the point of the peg that should clear OK.

[1owner69Elan]

Thought I would share a picture of the clearance of the T9 in my chassis. As noted before, it just clears but not enough ultimately to avoid potential vibration against the frame or to allow adjustment of gearbox height.

Again, with a blanking plug instead of the speedo gear, the needed cut in the frame is reduced dramatically.

Picture is taken from within the tunnel toward the front. Gearbox is mounted on the bracket so it is in the correct position (except for fine tuning of height - and possible adjustment of angle).

[1owner69Elan]

Finally took the plunge and cut the notch in the frame. Since it is relatively small, in the end it wasn't as agonizing as it might have been.

Here is a superimposed comparison of the larger Voigt-specified cutout (Steve Lyle's, with room for the speedo unit) and my smaller cutout (no speedo):

With the gearbox in position, some shots with an endoscope from inside and outside the tunnel showing decent clearance.

From inside tunnel, looking toward the front:

From outside tunnel, looking toward the back:

[My72Sprint]

The amount of material removed without the speedo unit is perfect .

I'm not worried about weakness now If I fit Voigt 5-speed.
Top left where you have the stock fuel line I updated to -6AN Earl's Performance Pro-Lite Ultra Hose.
Stock hole = .25 od + grommet , -6AN .50 od + gromet .620 (5/8). overkill but light strong and supports injection fuel pressures.

Tim

[1owner69Elan]

Top left where you have the stock fuel line I updated to -6AN Earl's Performance Pro-Lite Ultra Hose.
Stock hole = .25 od + grommet , -6AN .50 od + gromet .620 (5/8). overkill but light strong and supports injection fuel pressures.

Tim

Actually, on my car, I have replaced the stock fuel line with a rigid stainless one. Connects at ends with flexible Russell Pro Classic hose with -AN fittings.

[My72Sprint]

Oh, Guees that's stainless in the photo, not sure.

[1owner69Elan]

The photo is two photos superimposed. So, both a nylon line (Steve’s) and my stainless. Images overlaid.

[1owner69Elan]

So, I have progressed on my Voigt installation to where I have the engine and Voigt gearbox back in the car. They are bolted together. Headers (exhaust manifold) are on (rather difficult exercise for the TTR manifold). Clutch has been bled and works (a great relief). Having the bleed line located in the engine bay makes the bleeding a breeze. I did relocate the bleed line to the firewall. Attaching the bracket to the exhaust manifold stud was impossible with the large TTR manifold - no room for the bracket to attach to the stud. Picture shows where I located the bleed line.

As I went to attach the engine motor mounts to the frame I found that I need to move everything (engine/gearbox) back another 1/2 inch or so. My first thought was that my bracket arrangement might be somewhat off. But, regardless, there is only another (maybe) 1/2" for the gearbox mount to move back before hitting the tunnel frame. This appears to be the same issue that Steve encountered, even using the supplied Voigt bracket.

So, I guess I will have to follow what Steve did (see below) and see if I can get everything to fit in.

It's too bad that things have to be moved back further as the gear lever is now reasonably centered in the console, as is. It will apparently end up (like Steve's) further back, up against the opening, after shifting it back.

Today I got (most) all of the under-the-car work done.

The transmission mount was more work. Per the instructions it was on loosely. There were a couple of interference issues or potential issues - the casing of the rubber mount itself was resting against the transmission tunnel. Reversing the mount and some judicious grinding of the tunnel "ledge" gave me about 1/16" clearance.

But first I had to get the mount off - and I couldn't get the nylocs at the end of the two long bolts off, because I couldn't get a wrench on the bolt heads - even with dropping the tranny as much as possible. I ended up using an impact wrench and putting enough side load on the bolts that it would do the job.

To make the job easier for the any future removals, I MIGed the bolt heads to the steel casing of the rubber mount. Not pretty, but effective, and made the job of removing/installing the mount assembly much easier.

The next interference issue was with the spacer and the brake line. I rounded off one corner of the spacer with a grinder, and levered the tranny tail a bit to the right when I put the mount/crossmember on, and that gave me plenty of clearance there, about 1/8" or a tad more.

Lots of test fits, fiddling (grinding, filing, etc) and trips between crawling under the car and going to the bench, but eventually I was happy with the results.

[My72Sprint]

I'm using Kelvedon Fast Road RACEHDEMKIT02 with my 4 speed 2000E, Much better/stronger chassis attachment, Clamps both sides of the motor mount "ears". There is enough compliance a vibration increate
should not be significant

This is a 4 piece mounting set-up that would allow custom spacer fabrication permitting slight engine relocation.

https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product/ela ... ne-mounts/

Just a thought ..
Tim

[1owner69Elan]

I got the motor mounts to match up by sliding the whole unit (engine/gearbox) back about a 1/2 inch. The unwelcome consequence of that is that then the gearbox mount just touches the tunnel frame (Steve's experience) and the bracket also no longer lines up with the gearbox mount.

So, then by slotting the holes in the gearbox bracket, I was able to slide the bracket back enough to line up with the gearbox mount.

Also, shaved a bit off the center tunnel frame for clearance. You can see before and after:

Finally secured:

I also did a quick test fit and it appears that all is OK for the large TTR race exhaust clearance to the gearbox and the bracket, but I haven't fully connected the full system yet.

In this whole process, there is little margin for error in getting this installed. With judicious (but admittedly minor) fettling it "just" fits.

[1owner69Elan]

In the home stretch. Have now finished all the issues on the bottom of the car. Refitted the ARB, the frame cross-piece, routed the clutch line out of the way, installed starter, refiitted the exhaust system, etc.

The TTR extra large bore race system fits well. Clears the casting tab on the Voigt 5-speed and fits just within the repositioned original gearbox bracket. No modifications to the TTR system required.

Next is to finish items on top: carbs, cooling, gearshift secured (already trial fitted), etc. Fill fluids and go.

The exhaust manifold is already secured. I have to say this is one of the more miserable jobs on my car. With the TTR manifold it is almost impossible to access some of the nuts (even using small K-nuts). Maybe cap screws would be better, but not sure. Just no access. But, it is in for now - hopefully not to be revisited for some time.

[h20hamelan]

nice weekend for a drive

its funny in BC, you can weld on commercial frames. not civilian
i might have considered welding the piece cut out, inside of the cut

[steve lyle]

Looks to be coming together very nicely!

[baileyman]

I used stainless cap screws for the manifold to the head on an AX block with anti-seize. Incidentally, the TTR Y-collector is kinked which did not fit. I had it straightened and the fit is now perfect. John

[1owner69Elan]

I am hoping not to have to remove the exhaust manifold any time soon, but if I do perhaps I'll consider the cap screw approach.

Not sure about a kink in the TTR y-collector. Mine fit fine, as below. You do have to orient it right side up but not sure that is what you encountered. As these are custom made, there could be differences between units, as well.