Gearbox swop?

PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sat Nov 27, 2010 10:05 pm

Hi Guys,
Andrew kindly loaned me a few 5 spd parts today to compare with the 4 stuff I took off. The pivot pin is a dawdle. your existing Ford item fits into the top of the bolt come 'post' and is very simple to make.

The existing bearing carrier is slightly different but making a couple of spacer(s) and boring it to diameter sorts this. You need to remove about 1.2 mm (In my case anyway). The bugger is very hard though and I got through a tungsten insert doing it.. The holders are becoming difficult to get so this might be the only solution. I took out about 1 mm then honed it to the same as the one Andrew loaned me. Remember if you are machining this, its very important to have it running true (+ /- FA.. sorry .000) before you start cutting. The advantage of using your existing 4 spd parts will be that it will slot nicely into your existing clutch release arm, which is virtually identical.

I am getting there now. I have the spacers to make for the release bearing and that's sorted. The sump is rubbed and painted & I gave the engine front a clean down and repainted the grey, just to freshen it up. It should be a doddle fitting it all up now which I will do on the floor so to speak. Fitting the exhaust manifolds (dry fit) to check exhaust clearance at the box, then I can start refitting the bugger.

Graham says he has modified the gear lever for me so I am waiting to see what he has done before launching into anything there. He says it will be V good and its the same as his own. I am up for that..

Put some more pic's up soon...

Alex... 8)
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Sun Nov 28, 2010 9:08 am

The splines can go together in any position, but after balancing the shaft will need to be maintained in the same position to maintain the balance - hence the paint marks.


Yes they can and it's important that they are aligned correctly before balancing - the UK (Hookes) joints need to be aligned so that they work in the same plane to be effective, of course this is less important in the Elan where the shaft is effectively running straight in the chassis but it is critical if the shaft is running at angle.

Mike
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Nov 28, 2010 9:50 am

O.K. here are the piccies of my gearlever solution,I think the 10mm stub coming out of the gearbox was initially in the rubber extension housing?anyway what I did was pickup a short piece of 10mm s/s bar and tapped the end for the knob and weld on the other end a piece of 10mm I/D s/s tube,pushed the two together(to get some back pressure from the rubber) and drilled straight through for a split pin...don't forget the 10mm id washer up against the rubber.
The fact that there is no rubber in-line gives a nice crisp gear selection ,and the lever is in the correct position.

John :wink:
Attachments
2010_1128gearlever0001.JPG and
lever in situ
2010_1128gearlever0003.JPG and
shroud removed
2010_1128gearlever0004.JPG and
knob removed
2010_1128gearlever0008.JPG and
view of split pin
2010_1128gearlever0007.JPG and
extension removed
2010_1128gearlever0006.JPG and
stub shaft and split pin
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sun Nov 28, 2010 11:18 am

John,

Looks good.Any chance you have a spare hanging around that you want to get rid off??

Paul.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:15 pm

Paul

Sorry,just knocked up the one..

John :wink:
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:28 pm

That looks a very good answer to the issue John. I see you are well into gizmotronics.. (new word! Its mine & I hereby claim it :lol: :lol: )

I made the bits for the release bearing this morning. Sorted. If SM comes up with the actual item..Braw. If not well I have one ready. Would rather use the correct item though if possible.

Couple of pics of the Item concerned...
Attachments
release bearing& modified carrier.. 5 speed 003 [800x600].JPG and
You can see how far the bearing is 'spaced' from the collar.This is because the coller is thicker on the 5 spd item.
release bearing& modified carrier.. 5 speed 002 [800x600].JPG and
The spacing away fromthe 'collar' results in the face of the races being the same height.
release bearing& modified carrier.. 5 speed 001 [800x600].JPG and
Andrew's new item is on the left.
Last edited by alexblack13 on Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:29 pm

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:54 pm

Bugger!... Can't claim it then I see... rats... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Quite impressed by the neat wee panel full of switches and what looks like LED's. And a digi readout above. Is that a fun factor display?

Looks cool.... :wink:

Good result on the gearshift lever by the way.. I am thinking (IF need be!) to use the 4 speed lever modified (a la ??'s instructions previous) thus.

Push out the rubber bush. Cut off the (welded on) lever from the steel 'tube'. clean up the steel tube in the lathe. Re weld the lever back on turned 180 deg' refit rubber bush. This brings the 'knob' (to be spoken in inspector clouseau accent!!) to eerr... Hand slightly further rearward.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:04 pm

Alex

I take it you're using the 5 speed bearing and 5 speed pressure plate?.(I've stayed with the four speed items...

John :wink:

P.S. the digi readout is for the air/fuel lambda readout,switches for L and R spotlights,intermittent wash/wipe,aerial up/down,abs on/off,electric fan over-ride.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:08 pm

alexblack13 wrote:Hand Slightly further rearward.

Forward, surely? That's if I understand your French accent. :)
The position of the 5 speed shift is 25mm rearward to that of the 4 speed - so if you want the lever in the same position as the 4 speed, a 25mm forward adjustment is necessary. As per the Victor Hollnagel modification that I failed miserably to get right. :oops:
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:22 pm

Very impressive John. Well done!...

I am using the 5 speed bits. Just trying to keep it as Lotus themselves would have done... Almost...

Recieved the parts this morning ! (sunday post!) to make the s/s clutch line a bit different as per prev' post. Its all coming together....

Thanks for everyones input...

Here's why I'm sitting here and not out in the workshop...

:( AB...

Brian.. normal for me if I have it A for T.... Oppo what it is now. Cant remember till I look again... :lol: :lol:
Attachments
release bearing& modified carrier.. 5 speed 006 [800x600].JPG and
release bearing& modified carrier.. 5 speed 005 [800x600].JPG and
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PostPost by: trw99 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 2:27 pm

That's one heck of a release bearing & modified carrier you have in the back garden there, Alex! Try keeping the snow off it to prevent rust......

Tim
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 2:36 pm

That is way too much like work Tim... Besides that's what Carol likes to do. She is a dab hand with a snow shovel. I on the other hand am not... Ahemm!!


Way too much fun!!

Alex.. 8)
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:31 am

john.p.clegg wrote:O.K. here are the piccies of my gearlever solution,I think the 10mm stub coming out of the gearbox was initially in the rubber extension housing?anyway what I did was pickup a short piece of 10mm s/s bar and tapped the end for the knob and weld on the other end a piece of 10mm I/D s/s tube,pushed the two together(to get some back pressure from the rubber) and drilled straight through for a split pin...don't forget the 10mm id washer up against the rubber.
The fact that there is no rubber in-line gives a nice crisp gear selection ,and the lever is in the correct position.

John :wink:



Love all the traffic lights and the digital display.

What do they all do?
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:53 am

Bill

Digital display-lambda (air-fuel ratio),left spotlamp,right spotlamp,electric aerial,inter wash-wipe,ABS on-off,oil pressure,electric fan over-ride.

John :wink:

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