Transmission Removal
29 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
As said, don't cut the gear lever.
You could try to lever the metal dust cap by welding on a bolt or drill a hole in it to stick something through to lever it. Once started it should turn. Soak with plenty penetration fluid ( plus gas or similar)
You could try to lever the metal dust cap by welding on a bolt or drill a hole in it to stick something through to lever it. Once started it should turn. Soak with plenty penetration fluid ( plus gas or similar)
Graeme
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
-
661 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1195
- Joined: 29 Mar 2012
If you're going to use penetrating oil, get it to the inside by pushing down on the 'inner' dome, ie, the one
that immediately surrounds the gear stick. It's spring loaded. That way you can spray to the offending
threads of the cap..
that immediately surrounds the gear stick. It's spring loaded. That way you can spray to the offending
threads of the cap..
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Ian,
I'll bet your gearbox mount is broken or distorted. They do crack and go along way towards failure. All good info you have received. There is a cross brace across the bottom of the chassis frame which will not allow the gearbox to be removed going straight down. On some Spyder frames and all +2s, this brace is removable.
Roger
I'll bet your gearbox mount is broken or distorted. They do crack and go along way towards failure. All good info you have received. There is a cross brace across the bottom of the chassis frame which will not allow the gearbox to be removed going straight down. On some Spyder frames and all +2s, this brace is removable.
Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 957
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
Hi Roger,
Isn’t the lower gearbox support crossmember removable?
I’m very fortunate to have a bunch of NOS parts from a dealer close down and in there is a lower beam, just in case mine is damaged.
I’m determined to get the gear lever out, now more than ever!
Ian
Isn’t the lower gearbox support crossmember removable?
I’m very fortunate to have a bunch of NOS parts from a dealer close down and in there is a lower beam, just in case mine is damaged.
I’m determined to get the gear lever out, now more than ever!
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 202
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
Ian
There are 2 types of gearbox mounts. I've only dealt w/ the later one and you probably have the early one. They both are bolted to the bottom of the frame. They mount to the bottom of the gearbox differently. But the cross brace I referred to is welded to the frame, is more or less straight and at least 20 inches long and is closer to the engine mounts.
Remove the gearbox mount from the car so you can jack the gearbox up higher, for better access to the round cap retaining the shift lever.
Roger
There are 2 types of gearbox mounts. I've only dealt w/ the later one and you probably have the early one. They both are bolted to the bottom of the frame. They mount to the bottom of the gearbox differently. But the cross brace I referred to is welded to the frame, is more or less straight and at least 20 inches long and is closer to the engine mounts.
Remove the gearbox mount from the car so you can jack the gearbox up higher, for better access to the round cap retaining the shift lever.
Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 957
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
Ian,
I have only removed engine and gearbox together once. I had already separated the body from the frame. The engine/gearbox had to be nearly vertical to clear the area of the chassis that the engine rubber mounts attach to. I think removing engine/gearbox with the body in place would be very difficult.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
I have only removed engine and gearbox together once. I had already separated the body from the frame. The engine/gearbox had to be nearly vertical to clear the area of the chassis that the engine rubber mounts attach to. I think removing engine/gearbox with the body in place would be very difficult.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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Hi Richard,
I’ve removed the engine and gearbox together once before. It was not easy, but not awful either. You’re correct it does have to be at a very steep angle to get it out.
It seems getting the gear lever out is first priority, then maybe I have some options.
Ian
I’ve removed the engine and gearbox together once before. It was not easy, but not awful either. You’re correct it does have to be at a very steep angle to get it out.
It seems getting the gear lever out is first priority, then maybe I have some options.
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 202
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
Old age and treachery won the day. The gear lever is out!
I was able to push the center down to flood some penetrating oil in there and then I drilled a hole in the domed cap. With the hole drilled I was finally able to start the cap turning. I drilled two more holes equi-spaced around the cap so one was always accessible to tap the cap around.
Eventually it fully unscrewed and popped off! The inner dome (pressed steel) and spring come out easily as did the lever with a bit a wiggling. It was clear that water had been able to get in there for years; hopefully it stayed in the shift area and didn’t get forward in to the gear section.
Appreciate the support from the group!
Ian
I was able to push the center down to flood some penetrating oil in there and then I drilled a hole in the domed cap. With the hole drilled I was finally able to start the cap turning. I drilled two more holes equi-spaced around the cap so one was always accessible to tap the cap around.
Eventually it fully unscrewed and popped off! The inner dome (pressed steel) and spring come out easily as did the lever with a bit a wiggling. It was clear that water had been able to get in there for years; hopefully it stayed in the shift area and didn’t get forward in to the gear section.
Appreciate the support from the group!
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 202
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
Between the metal dome and the gear lever is a dished washer to allow the gear lever to move, this is spring loaded. Make sure it is free to help undo the dome. You can then also get plus gas inside the dome.
It will unscrew eventually!
I cut some of the GRP away for access, not ideal but easy to repair.
It will unscrew eventually!
I cut some of the GRP away for access, not ideal but easy to repair.
- David1953
- Second Gear
- Posts: 68
- Joined: 10 Apr 2018
As for that "crossmember" that makes the gearbox harder to remove. You could at this point employ a sawsall and cut it out completely. Once you have the the frame by itself, top of your "to do" list will be to fabricate a removeable one anyway, so, cut it out now, or cut it out later. My $00.02 worth
- JLFonseca
- New-tral
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 30 Sep 2014
Mine is the removable type it turns out! But having finally been able to remove the gear lever, I will be removing the engine & ‘box together.
Ian
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 202
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
For me easier to remove Engine and after remove Gearbox.
Personal choice but i don't change Crossmember to a removable one. I don't see the reason unless you want to remove Sump with Engine in place.
Alan
Personal choice but i don't change Crossmember to a removable one. I don't see the reason unless you want to remove Sump with Engine in place.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 06 Dec 2008
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