Gearboxes

[joe7]

Unless you are running a race motor at 7,500, I would go with trying to smooth out the chip. It doesn't look that big. Also as mentioned, check the matching gear teeth on the lay shaft. A NOS 3rd gear would probably be about $250 to $300.

[h20hamelan]

I have used eutectic before

https://www.castolin.com/en-CA

Edit, I should be more specific. They sell a kit, some places rent them. It’s like powder coating.

on a worn bearing maybe, but I would not try it on the tooth of a car gearbox...

Eutectic® 19985
NI-CR-FE-SI ALLOY, CORROSION RESISTANT MACHINABLE NICKEL-BASE ALLOY USED IN THE RECLAMATION OF STEEL AND NICKEL ALLOY PARTS

If it can hold up to 20,000lbs 6x6 truck...I am towing, 13,000lb lorry. trucks up to 8,000lbs. hills, rocks, mtn tops etc. Have magnetic drain plug, and have not seen any residual. 90,000km on

The chip looks to me, that it would not interfere with the other gear. Engineers/prussian blue, if you cant sight the tip of the gear touching.

I would just clean it up, mini flap wheel etc

[sclemow]

So more questions I’m afraid. I have stripped 2 mainshafts and neither had a snapring holding the 1st/2nd synchroniser hub on. A cortina manual mentions one and the mainshaft seems to have a groove for one, the lotus manual doesn’t mention it though.
Should it have one or not?
Also does anyone have any good tips for removing the bearing from the input shaft?
It is very tight and I don’t want to damage 4th gear.

[promotor]

So more questions I’m afraid. I have stripped 2 mainshafts and neither had a snapring holding the 1st/2nd synchroniser hub on. A cortina manual mentions one and the mainshaft seems to have a groove for one, the lotus manual doesn’t mention it though.
Should it have one or not?
Also does anyone have any good tips for removing the bearing from the input shaft?
It is very tight and I don’t want to damage 4th gear.

If your gearbox has a sleeved bush under 1st gear (it should have as it's a 2.5 box) then the 1st/2nd synchroniser doesn't use a circlip - it is all held in place by the big nut behind the rear bearing.

The bearing on 4th gear can be a pain but they usually knock off with a drift if you're careful and you rotate your contact point around the job as you go as the bearing won't knock off without cockling slightly.

I use a press to press the bearing off with a bearing puller clamped around the bearing / in the circlip groove of the bearing.
However, it can be knocked off in a vice. Hold the splines in the vice (tightly, with soft jaws) and tap the edge of the bearing (or the circlip groove - bit safer and further away from precious teeth), allowing it to spin as you go and working at it from slightly different points (imagine a clock face, 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock etc). If you aren't confident you won't damage the gear teeth you could use the circlip groove in the bearing to clamp up a bearing puller and use the nose of the shaft as the contact point for the puller nose - it has a convenient / purpose built shape in the end of the nose for this job.

They aren't normally all that tight unless they've been fitted with bearing lock for some reason (bearing lock is not standard from the factory BTW). If it is tight then a bit of heat might be needed.

Hope that helps.

[sclemow]

Thanks Promoter, that’s great information. All of the boxes seem to be slightly different and experience helps! This is my first 2000e box, I’ve rebuilt boxes before, but not one of these.
I’ll have another go with the input bearing. The box has definitely been to bits at some point before, but that’s not surprising at the age of it.
Luckily most of it is in good condition, so bearings, baulk rings, seals, gaskets and a lay shaft should do.

[sclemow]

7A7EF90F-260E-4548-ACC5-7BEF8E9704D2.jpeg (70.45 KiB) Viewed 694 times

Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated, all back together.

[elangtv2000]

Gear lever goes on top...

[SENC]

Gear lever goes on top...

[sclemow]

I don't need to worry about that until I put it back in the car do I?