Possible stupid question but..
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Agree with inspecting the baulk rings and selector forks for wear, at a minimum.
If you decide you need to replace either, disassembly really is fairly easy and doesn't require any special tools. I had a piece of brass rod that I cut down to length to use for a dummy layshaft. A wooden dowel would work fine, too. I can get the measurements of the rod I used if you'd like.
Fully disassembling and reassembling the mainshaft is, as already mentioned, much easier with a press. I put a few videos on youtube - they are linked in my gearbox thread if you'd like to get a firsthand view of the project or need help sleeping.
If you decide you need to replace either, disassembly really is fairly easy and doesn't require any special tools. I had a piece of brass rod that I cut down to length to use for a dummy layshaft. A wooden dowel would work fine, too. I can get the measurements of the rod I used if you'd like.
Fully disassembling and reassembling the mainshaft is, as already mentioned, much easier with a press. I put a few videos on youtube - they are linked in my gearbox thread if you'd like to get a firsthand view of the project or need help sleeping.
Henry
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
- SENC
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Thanks guys, I will have to check out SENC's videos as you may as well be talking Double Dutch at this point. I expect it is easy enough! However... the gearbox shows no symptoms of badness; I'm just trying to tweak the gear change to make it a bit easier - mainly weaken the 5/reverse gate spring because it's way too strong, and same with the 5th detent spring (the one in the big nut under the box that holds the 'box in 5th) to make 5th - 4th transition easier. I do not like the manly tug needed to change down, or the wrenching to get into 5th or reverse.
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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JonB wrote:Well, I've rinsed it with petrol and got a fair old measure of gunk out. Wicked up the puddle left over at the bottom of the casing and let it dry out a bit. Then poured some Redline MTX on the top gear shaft and selector mechanism and spent some time turning the output shaft in all gears. Teeth look much cleaner now, and the box is turning easier. Gearshift feels better and that's without any Vince Reynard magic. I'll let it sit a while and turn it over periodically. Hopefully that will shift any left over petrol in the bearings.
I don't think it needs a rebuild as there is no more noise than expected and it doesn't drop out of gear. Removing dirt is just a maintenance thing which I hope will lead to a longer life (the gearbox, not me!)
The reason for fiddling with it is to try and get a better gearchange. So far, so good.
Jaman here. ... NEVER Use Petrol or Diesel to clean out Gunk in your mechanical parts. Fatal cracking can occur.
Jaman
1969 S4 Fed Sprint Stromberg
1969 S4 Fed Sprint Stromberg
- jaman
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jaman wrote:Jaman here. ... NEVER Use Petrol or Diesel to clean out Gunk in your mechanical parts. Fatal cracking can occur.
How does that work? Fatal cracking of what? I ask because I often use petrol to clean up / out mechanical parts.
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
- 69S4
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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