Gearbox leak - Planning for a gearbox and engine pull

[69S4]

Yes, not easy. I tack welded the nuts on the topside.

I considered doing exactly the same when it was off but needing the 'give' in the bolt holes to get everything lined up without stress in the rubber I went with nyloc nuts.

[Foxie]

Got through the bulk of strip down in prep for pulling the engine and transmission, with 2 final hurdles perhaos some of you can advise on:

1 - the 2 bolts that hold the rubber mount to the gearbox bracket. I can get to the nuts from the bottom of the bracket, but they just spin the whole bolt. I can't feel the bolt-heads on the top to try to figure out how to hold them with a wrench - presumably a combination of oil, rubber, and road grime. I'm thinking the best bet is to drop the gearbox bracket from the subframe and try to get at the mount after I get the tranny out. Any better ideas?

2 - the plastic cap/dome that screws into the gearchange turret is stuck, and I can't see any good way to get at it. It needs to come out so I can remove the lower section of the gearchange lever to get the box out. Any tips or suggestions?

1. I drilled a hole in the centre of the main bracket to allow a socket to access the single bolt ( 9/16" on Lotus 4 speed, 11/16" on T9) holding the rubber mount to the gearbox, so you don't need to undo the two side bolts in place. If the bracket is a narrow one you might need to weld a bit of reinforcement.

2. Make up a box spanner from 2 1/2" ID steel tube, by cutting 4 no. 1" x 1/4" recesses to match the teeth around the bottom of the plastic turret.

[prezoom]

Also pulling the engine and gearbox today for a gearbox leak. On the box mounting bracket, I drilled a hole in the bracket directly below the single bolt that connects the bracket to the mount use a cap screw or a 12 point bolt in place of the hex bolt. Can now easily reach that fastener with an Allen wrench, or for the 12 point, a small 1/4" drive 7/16" socket.

[Foxie]

Also pulling the engine and gearbox today for a gearbox leak. On the box mounting bracket, I drilled a hole in the bracket directly below the single bolt that connects the bracket to the mount and used a cap screw in place of the hex bolt. Can now easily reach that fastener with an Allen socket wrench.

I think using cap screws instead of hex head bolts on the TC makes life a whole lot easier. I have now fitted then on the sump, rear exhaust manifold, starter, and bell housing.

[SENC]

Thanks for the help. Foxie, I had a pvc coupling for a 2" pvc pipe that had an id nearly 2-1/2", so went at it with a dremel to make a spanner as you suggested - fit well but still wouldnt budge, so use the dremel to cut the cap off. Guess I'll be getting a new aluminum cap. I pulled the transmission mount with the engine and transmission, but will plan to modify it before reinstalling to make it easier next time.

Other than the bellhouse jam, no major issues pulling the engine and tranny together, but I'll be sore tomorrow!

[prezoom]

Did you find your leak?

[Concrete-crusher]

With the plastic gear lever cover there is a spring loaded washer pushing the cap up and putting some pressure on the threads, I used a piece of hose pipe over the gear shaft to push this down, that makes turning the plastic dome a little easier

Another method is to knock it round with a hammer and screwdriver

Steve

[promotor]

Thanks for the help. Foxie, I had a pvc coupling for a 2" pvc pipe that had an id nearly 2-1/2", so went at it with a dremel to make a spanner as you suggested - fit well but still wouldnt budge, so use the dremel to cut the cap off. Guess I'll be getting a new aluminum cap. I pulled the transmission mount with the engine and transmission, but will plan to modify it before reinstalling to make it easier next time.

Other than the bellhouse jam, no major issues pulling the engine and tranny together, but I'll be sore tomorrow!

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Is that a 17mm input shaft on your gearbox? It could possibly be a 2.5:1 1st gearbox if it is?

[SENC]

Did you find your leak?

Truthfully, I was too beat after a long day to do much diagnosis, but judging by the amount of fluid in the tunnel and the initial visual of the tailshaft seal I suspect my hunch was correct. I'll spend the limited time I have for this project in the next 10 days doing general cleanup to make it more tolerable to work on - it is a mess all over.

[SENC]

Is that a 17mm input shaft on your gearbox? It could possibly be a 2.5:1 1st gearbox if it is?

Don't know, will grab a measurement tonight.

[rgh0]

I use hex socket bolts with the head to the top. Easy to get a hex key in there. Sometimes I have to clean out the clean out the hex socket with some spray degreaser to remove road grime build up

cheers
Rohan

[h20hamelan]

SENC, a quick comment on Your engine lifting bridal
You might consider strapping with tension together, the two straps under the engine. I can see the front strap slipping. Maybe not catastrophic, probably worth the effort.

[SENC]

Is that a 17mm input shaft on your gearbox? It could possibly be a 2.5:1 1st gearbox if it is?

Nope, a 15mm.

[SENC]

Thanks Rohan, that seems the simplest solution.

Thanks H2O, it was solid, but extra safety never hurts so I'll add that on the way back into the car.

[promotor]

Is that a 17mm input shaft on your gearbox? It could possibly be a 2.5:1 1st gearbox if it is?

Nope, a 15mm.

Thanks for confirming. Thought it would be unusual to have one fitted, but you never know!