Which driceshaft conversion kit ?
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I've managed to set up a new gallery and load a couple of images onto it. One of them shows the back set up with TTR driveshaft and Spyder strut. I'll see what else I can find.
Regards,
Hamish.
Regards,
Hamish.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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Hamish Coutts - Third Gear
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Hamish Coutts wrote:I don't really understand all this full droop stuff either. Nor do I notice any jaming/baulking when I am working on the car while it is on axle stands and the suspension is at full droop. .
If a problem does occur it is more likely to happen to the two seater Elan then the Plus Two due to the shorter shafts on the two seater.
Brian
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Splines will only bind up under torque i.e. you need to be accelerating hard (or possibly with engine braking?), as well as having the suspension at full droop. You will not notice anything when the car is on axle stands, unless they are REALLY badly neglected...!
I am happy with doughnuts myself.... (road-going S4 & +2S130/5)
Matthew
I am happy with doughnuts myself.... (road-going S4 & +2S130/5)
Matthew
- ppnelan
- Fourth Gear
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Re: making up kit. Would not bother either. I got some parts for sliding spline and UJ's type and thought I would be smart and have a couple of sets made up. With the 3 to 4 bolt adaptor plates and shaft shorten work it cost me dear. No even put them together yet. Bought some TTR ones. Only done about 200 mile yet. No had a real blat around yet, too wet. Seem very nice, with zero surge. Bit bothered about the natural play in the transmission when you pull off. Ever so slight tick tick noise as it take up drive. Do nuts did not do this but am sure they did soften off. Only did 600miles over 2 years. Began to surge like hell, though no sign of breaking up.
I have lent some Spyder ones (CV and Do nut.) I am going to try them next year as I think the spyder ones may get rid of the tick tick drive take up. The anti-flail/surge ring may not allow the do nut to move as much so I may use the TTR ones on a track car I am building and have the Sypder on the road Elan. My biggest worry was a break and the flail around my Arse. My two pence worth.
Mike S4DHC
I have lent some Spyder ones (CV and Do nut.) I am going to try them next year as I think the spyder ones may get rid of the tick tick drive take up. The anti-flail/surge ring may not allow the do nut to move as much so I may use the TTR ones on a track car I am building and have the Sypder on the road Elan. My biggest worry was a break and the flail around my Arse. My two pence worth.
Mike S4DHC
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miked - Coveted Fifth Gear
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OK Brian, I take your point. I wasn't sure if all this baulking stuff applied to a +2.
I think the TTR 'shafts are very good and miles ahead of the so called 'rubber' doughnuts. If was starting again I would go down the same route.
Regards,
Hamish.
I think the TTR 'shafts are very good and miles ahead of the so called 'rubber' doughnuts. If was starting again I would go down the same route.
Regards,
Hamish.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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Hamish Coutts - Third Gear
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Brian loved the photo's of the drive shafts did you use floating joints both ends & what are the caps in the adaptors are they core plugs
Ian
Ian
- elansprint
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elansprint wrote: did you use floating joints both ends & what are the caps in the adaptors are they core plugs
Yes Ian, they were both the floating type (plunging C.V.'s I believe is the techanical name) the caps are core plugs (welsh plugs) from the rear of a Kent 1600 block.... 2" diameter.
Brian
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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With the orginal armstrong rear shocks in position and the car up on axle stands the UJs on my TTR sliding spline axles would lock up completely (and that was on a +2)! It mentions in the literature that you get with the kit that you can grind away at the the UJ to relieve this. I did this on one side, and then after realising that my shocks were actually shot, bought a set to TTR shocks. The axles don't bind with these at all!
Cheers
tim
Cheers
tim
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tdafforn - Fourth Gear
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Jerome,
fistly appologies for not searching for the correct letters fr you name. All I have readily at hand are ? ? ? ?.
I have fitted TT sliding spline UJ shafts & dampers to my S4 they are well made and am very happy with them. They do need to be greased regularly as does the prop' shaft and the front trunnions so this is not really a problem once you are under the car. Prior to these I bought the Spyder donut/CV shafts complete as a package with their chassis & suspension. I decided not to fit the suspension or the shafts. The welds between the flanges & the shafts looked a bit agricultural so I sold the whole lot on because the engine in my Elan produces a lot of torque. Mick Miller introduced his CV shafts a bit later. I saw them at Donington, they looked very tidy with lightweight aluminium flanges (TT's UJ's are steel and heavy). Problem was, the alloy flanges were tapped with UNF threads, I would have preferred UNC into Aluminium. (I believe the later ones have UNC). I think you will find the TT CV shafts will be practically identical to MM's but with UNC threads. Why not give them a call. They sell the UJ shafts to satisfy the FIA historic racing regulations.
Hope this info' is of some help.
John
fistly appologies for not searching for the correct letters fr you name. All I have readily at hand are ? ? ? ?.
I have fitted TT sliding spline UJ shafts & dampers to my S4 they are well made and am very happy with them. They do need to be greased regularly as does the prop' shaft and the front trunnions so this is not really a problem once you are under the car. Prior to these I bought the Spyder donut/CV shafts complete as a package with their chassis & suspension. I decided not to fit the suspension or the shafts. The welds between the flanges & the shafts looked a bit agricultural so I sold the whole lot on because the engine in my Elan produces a lot of torque. Mick Miller introduced his CV shafts a bit later. I saw them at Donington, they looked very tidy with lightweight aluminium flanges (TT's UJ's are steel and heavy). Problem was, the alloy flanges were tapped with UNF threads, I would have preferred UNC into Aluminium. (I believe the later ones have UNC). I think you will find the TT CV shafts will be practically identical to MM's but with UNC threads. Why not give them a call. They sell the UJ shafts to satisfy the FIA historic racing regulations.
Hope this info' is of some help.
John
Beware of the Illuminati
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
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GrUmPyBoDgEr - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I know that TT's prejudice against the CV system is the fact that the flanges are aluminium. He is worried about whether they could distort under load.
I have heard no evidense for this on any of the forums, but I guess its a possibility?
Cheers
tim
I have heard no evidense for this on any of the forums, but I guess its a possibility?
Cheers
tim
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tdafforn - Fourth Gear
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Can any one tell me how to fit these cv joint axles?
Is it necessary to remove the diff?
the unit I bought has two cv's and a specially incorporated diff output shaft which replaces the original diff output shaft.
I can not wait to fit this system but I am awaiting the arrival of new koni shocks.
cheers
Robin
Is it necessary to remove the diff?
the unit I bought has two cv's and a specially incorporated diff output shaft which replaces the original diff output shaft.
I can not wait to fit this system but I am awaiting the arrival of new koni shocks.
cheers
Robin
- bengalcharlie
- Third Gear
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Most of the systems are very easy to fit, just remove the current donuts & shafts & put the new shafts in their place. The only problem I had was my output shafts had the failsafe prong in the middle which wouldn't fit with the flat aluminium end plate on the MM shafts. So I just cut the prong off and they fitted fine. However if you have to replace the diff output shafts that could be quite tricky underneath the car (I couldn't get one side out at all even though I already had the diff out)
Which system have you gone for Robin?
Rick
Which system have you gone for Robin?
Rick
- blueseamonkey
- Second Gear
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I've put a pic of TTR driveshafts with TTR Koni shocks on the gallery - jacked up on a trolley jack, they dont touch, bump or lock up at full droop, I think, maybe, The TTR shocks could be shorter/restricted drop..... also ..... I've yet to drive them!
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SADLOTUS - Fourth Gear
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