My Voigt 5-speed conversion

[rgh0]

I have a vacuum suction handpump and bottle that I can use to suck out things like this from a fill hole. The pump sucks out the air and creates a vacuum in the bottle and the fluid comes up into the bottle, that way you dont get the pump full of whatever your trying to remove. The one I have was made for vacuum bleeding brakes and I made a larger bottle than the small one that came with the kit for vacuum sucking up other fluids of bigger volumes, power steering reservoirs is what I have normally used it for emptying the most

cheers
Rohan

[pharriso]

I also did not like the grommet provided for the bleed line to seal dust out of the bell housing. Rather poor fit as can be seen. I found an oval clutch line grommet (for a Jeep) that I modified to fit better in the hole.

Do you have a part number for the Jeep grommet?, looks like a much better solution than the plastic grommet supplied by Alan, mine looks like it would work it's way out straight away!

[1owner69Elan]

I also did not like the grommet provided for the bleed line to seal dust out of the bell housing. Rather poor fit as can be seen. I found an oval clutch line grommet (for a Jeep) that I modified to fit better in the hole.

Do you have a part number for the Jeep grommet?, looks like a much better solution than the plastic grommet supplied by Alan, mine looks like it would work it's way out straight away!

Purchased via Amazon from "Crown Automotive":

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive ... 0219866011

I had to enlarge and reposition the hole for the larger flexible line that I am using. Used a Dremel.

[1owner69Elan]

I talked to Alan on Monday, let him know about the 5th gear issue and the other issues. He had Mark there as well. It was a very constructive conversation - no defensiveness, all just wanted to understand what was happening and begin to figure out what to do.

Best guess for the leak is that I hadn't sealed the shift lever plate, and for all I know didn't have it bolted down securely. I think that's likely, since I have a hard time coming up with another scenario that could leak that much oil that quickly. Per the Voigts, 5th throws up quite a stream of gear oil directly under the shift plate (sounds like they have experience with that).

They were stumped about the issue with 5th - apparently haven't seen quite that problem before. They went off to run some tests on units they had on hand.

Today they called back - their not sure exactly what the problem is, but it's almost certainly an issue with the 5th shift fork. The tranny will have to come out and get opened up to diagnose exactly the issue is and fix it. We talked about my wrenching experience, including rebuilding a couple of manual trannies, we're both comfortable I can handle it. Alan will be providing some diagrams and directions in the next day or two (as well as a replacement reverse switch), and we'll negotiate some reimbursement for my labor. So, here we go again with an engine pull....

I'm wondering about how to avoid pouring almost 2L of gear oil on the garage floor - the tranny has no drain plug, and I expect the oil will come pouring out the output shaft opening when I pull the yoke. Any ideas?

Sorry to hear that it's engine/gearbox out again. Just a couple of thoughts:

1. The oil leak and non-functioning speedo might be related. Apparently, leakage from the speedo linkage on the T9 is a common problem.

2. Before removing everything, might be instructive to remove the gear lever and inspect the plastic shift rod saddle. Relatively easy to do. As I mentioned before, somehow I was able to mess this saddle up, to the point that the lever no longer was in proper position, and it seemed like I could not select 5th. My saddle no longer stays in its proper position, having the plastic tab break off, but when manually rotated into its proper position and guiding the lever fork into it, all the gears are selectable.

Of course, none of the above may be applicable to your situation. Hope you get it sorted out straight away with the Voigts help.

[pharriso]

I also did not like the grommet provided for the bleed line to seal dust out of the bell housing. Rather poor fit as can be seen. I found an oval clutch line grommet (for a Jeep) that I modified to fit better in the hole.

Do you have a part number for the Jeep grommet?, looks like a much better solution than the plastic grommet supplied by Alan, mine looks like it would work it's way out straight away!

Purchased via Amazon from "Crown Automotive":

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive ... 0219866011

I had to enlarge and reposition the hole for the larger flexible line that I am using. Used a Dremel.

Thanks for the info, I will check it out. Chrysler part number is 53004051

[1owner69Elan]

As I continue to procrastinate and avoid installing my Voigt gearbox, I found another option for plugging the bell housing hole for the bleeder line. This time it is a BMW part and I think it does a better job than the Jeep rubber plug. This is a proper boot around the clutch line with the orientation just about perfect. No modifications required. It seals better, outside and inside, and is more flexible around the clutch line not putting stress on the concentric slave cylinder fitting. Cost was ~$USD 6.

Inside view, well secured by inner grommet lip:

[steve lyle]

Well, it wasn't the plan to be able to take this picture, but here it is - the tranny is back out after 5 hrs of labor.

I could never figure out how to pump the oil out of the tranny, so I enlisted my lovely assistant who helped push the driveshaft forward while I moved the tranny forward. Once we got the tail end out of the tunnel, I pulled the yoke out, lowered the rear, and drained the oil out of the output shaft opening.

Alan's been calling me constantly to offer help. He's sent me disassembly instructions, which I'll get to in the next couple of days.

I checked the plastic fitting on the gear change rail - mine was in good shape.

Meantime, I'll order that BMW grommet - nice find!

[1owner69Elan]

Steve,
With the gearbox out of the car, have you tried selecting all the gears? Is 5th still not there? If it now exists might indicate some interference of the shift lever in situ.

[steve lyle]

Steve,
With the gearbox out of the car, have you tried selecting all the gears? Is 5th still not there? If it now exists might indicate some interference of the shift lever in situ.

That's the weird thing - it felt like it shifted fine when in the car, but when I let the clutch out it made the grinding sound. It sort of felt like it was in gear, but couldn't take any torque - the second the power went on - grinding.

But no - I haven't put the lever back on and tried it since getting it out.

[steve lyle]

I have a vacuum suction handpump and bottle that I can use to suck out things like this from a fill hole. The pump sucks out the air and creates a vacuum in the bottle and the fluid comes up into the bottle, that way you dont get the pump full of whatever your trying to remove. The one I have was made for vacuum bleeding brakes and I made a larger bottle than the small one that came with the kit for vacuum sucking up other fluids of bigger volumes, power steering reservoirs is what I have normally used it for emptying the most

cheers
Rohan

Thanks for the idea, Rohan. I couldn't get it to work for me in this case because I couldn't snake a tube in the tranny's side fill hole such that it would get into the oil for any depth. Believe me I tried - that friggin case is full of gears - who knew?

[CBUEB1771]

Not sure if has been mentioned on this thread yet but the aluminum main cases for the T9 made by both Quaife and Tracsport have drain ports. It would mean taking the whole gearbox apart, but... Both are available from Burton. https://www.burtonpower.com/tracsport-h ... t9105.html

[1owner69Elan]

Not sure if has been mentioned on this thread yet but the aluminum main cases for the T9 made by both Quaife and Tracsport have drain ports. It would mean taking the whole gearbox apart, but... Both are available from Burton. https://www.burtonpower.com/tracsport-h ... t9105.html

I tried to get Voigts to build my box with an alloy main case and top cover. They refused. The only modification I could get was an alternative BGH gearset.

[rgh0]

I have a vacuum suction handpump and bottle that I can use to suck out things like this from a fill hole. The pump sucks out the air and creates a vacuum in the bottle and the fluid comes up into the bottle, that way you dont get the pump full of whatever your trying to remove. The one I have was made for vacuum bleeding brakes and I made a larger bottle than the small one that came with the kit for vacuum sucking up other fluids of bigger volumes, power steering reservoirs is what I have normally used it for emptying the most

cheers
Rohan

Thanks for the idea, Rohan. I couldn't get it to work for me in this case because I couldn't snake a tube in the tranny's side fill hole such that it would get into the oil for any depth. Believe me I tried - that friggin case is full of gears - who knew?

Next time you want to change the oil and you dont want to remove the gearbox to do it, try a smaller flexible tube with a solid U bend on its upper end so you can fit it through the hole so the flexible part points straight down along the GB inner wall. Maybe an inspection camera also through the hole at the same so you can help steer it down .. May be hire a arthroscopic surgeon to help

cheers
Rohan

[pharriso]

As I continue to procrastinate and avoid installing my Voigt gearbox, I found another option for plugging the bell housing hole for the bleeder line. This time it is a BMW part and I think it does a better job than the Jeep rubber plug. This is a proper boot around the clutch line with the orientation just about perfect. No modifications required. It seals better, outside and inside, and is more flexible around the clutch line not putting stress on the concentric slave cylinder fitting. Cost was ~$USD 6.

That's even better! Well done, for the record the BMW part number is 6 863 043 / 6863043

[steve lyle]

Mystery solved?

When I pulled the tailpiece up off the tranny, I found a little pile of aluminum chips on top of the shift rail. That rail has to move back into the tailpiece by about 3/8" when you shift into 5th. The tailpiece has about 1/2" of space to allow that. My pile of chips, along with the ones I found in the bottom of the tailpiece shift rail shaft could easily have been more than 1/8", preventing the tranny from fully shifting into 5th.

I'm kicking myself for not taking a picture of the chip pile on top of the rail, but here's a pic of some of the chips I got out of the shaft.

Mr. 69Elan - I think this means you're in the clear from this problem, since you didn't have the plug at the end of the shift rail shaft. Lucky you!