Installing flywheel & clutch

[stugilmour]

My TC engine arrived with the flywheel and clutch removed. Do I need Locktite to fasten the flywheel and/or clutch? Can I re-use the included fasteners? How do I hold everything motionless while tightening and torquing the fasteners? If special tools or procedures are required perhaps I should take the engine over to the shop that removed it for me originally to get it prepared for installation?

I have always removed the engine and transmission as a unit. My local shop left the MT-75 transmission in place, but loose on the transmission mount. Can the engine be installed in this way with the oversized headers installed?

Any help appreciated.

Stu

[Sadbrewer]

If you are unsure Stu...let the professionals do it.

[mbell]

Can the engine be installed in this way with the oversized headers installed?

What chassis? The normal pinch point for the standard chassis is the engine mounts brackets. I am pretty certain you wouldn't get a set of standard headers past them. I always loosely fit the headers after the engine is in the bay but before fitting the engine mounts.

But if you have spyder chassis with removable arms or headers of significantly different design you might have more luck.

[webbslinger]

I just put my engine back in three weeks ago with the headers on. It is possible, but I think it was harder to get a couple of the engine to bellhousing bolts in with the headers in the way than it is to put the headers on after the engine is in the car.
Everyone has a favorite way, but I prefer pulling the engine minus the transmission. Make two 3" or so 3/8 studs and loosely screw them into the bellhousing on either side to line the engine up as it goes in. Jack the transmission up as far as it will go before starting.
I have an older Spyder frame and slightly oversize headers.

[StressCraxx]

My TC engine arrived with the flywheel and clutch removed. Do I need Locktite to fasten the flywheel and/or clutch? Can I re-use the included fasteners? How do I hold everything motionless while tightening and torquing the fasteners? If special tools or procedures are required perhaps I should take the engine over to the shop that removed it for me originally to get it prepared for installation?

I have always removed the engine and transmission as a unit. My local shop left the MT-75 transmission in place, but loose on the transmission mount. Can the engine be installed in this way with the oversized headers installed?

Any help appreciated.

Stu

Hello Stu,
I would not re-use the flywheel bolts, but buy new ARP ones from Bean or others. They are much stronger than the OEM flywheel bolts and less expensive. My engine builder insists on Loctite red and torqued to recommended as in the manual.

I have not installed an MT75 box attached to the engine, but a 2000E can be installed or removed with the engine bolted to it. I set the engine in the chassis with the header and motor mounts removed. I push the engine towards the right side to fit up the header to the head loose, then install the left motor mount, and then the right.

[2cams70]

If it's just a standard engine the original bolts correctly torqued are perfectly fine. Correctly torqued is the key.
Insofar as stopping the flywheel turning whilst tightening or undoing these bolts I usually screw in two spare bolts temporarily into the pressure plate mounting holes. I then use a long prybar or socket extension bar to straddle across these bolts to stop the flywheel turning whist tightening/untightening these bolts. Works well and doesn't take a lot of force to stop it turning.

[stugilmour]

Excellent. Thanks for the suggestions. I was quite puzzled on backing things up; will use the clutch bolt holes as suggested.

Engine is a Tall Block Weber TC with oversized headers & exhaust. Frame is a Spyder Spaceframe. Transmission Spyder supplied MT-75 five speed with the integral bell housing. The Federal dual brake boosters restrict exhaust side clearance.

Based on the suggestions I think I will try to line up the engine with the MT-75 in place using the guide rod trick. Going to be tight getting the headers around the bell, but we will see.

I guess I haven’t really lost anything if I end up pulling the transmission and popping the whole assembly back in, which I have done enough times now I have lost count. With my usual procedure I can have pretty much everything attached; really the speedometer cable and the heater hose are the only minor issues.

Thanks again.