Damaged Diff Housing

[coffeeshopracer]

I'm in the process of installing CV joints after a rotoflex failed. Turns out the PO had put the rotoflex in backwards thereby altering the halfshaft length and preloading the rotoflex joints.

Anyway, when I went to pop the snap ring out of the diff housing to pull the diff output shaft, I found that half the snap ring groove was broken off. The pictures show it pretty well.

I wanted to put this on the forum and see if this has been seen by people in the past and how they've resolved it. I'm assuming that I'll have to take the aluminum housing out and have it welded and machined to be safe. The press fit of the bearing in the housing seems fine and I know there will be minimal axial load once the CV.s are installed. Has anyone tried or had experience with loctite 609 or similar press fit retaining compound?

Thanks

Jim

[rgh0]

Damaged snap ring grooves are fairly common either from corrosion, damage from incorrectly installed ot to long donut bolts or damage when removing the snap rings and bearings. I ran a diff on my Elan for 30 plus years with about 120 degrees of the groove lip missing without issue.

If there is much more missing than this you probably want to repair it or replace the casting. New castings are available and it is really an economic decision on cost of repair versus cost of replacement.

To repair, I have seen two methods used

1. Machine off the full end section to below the damaged groove and weld on a new ring section and machine it with a new groove it to the required dimensions

2. Weld up the damaged section of groove and re- machine it.

The cost of both these options can quickly add up to the cost of a new casting unless you can do most of the work yourself.

cheers
Rohan

[coffeeshopracer]

Thanks for the insight. I probably only have 180 deg of engagement left. This of course would mean that the snap ring could unseat itself fairly easily since it lacks positive retainment.

Out comes the diff...

[Mike Ostrov]

Jim, good morning. Just a few suggestions. For all my Climax Elite alloy diff cases and same for my Elan work, I use two heat lamps when removing and installing the diff stub axles.
I also throw away the bolts used to secure the pumpkin. Bolts should not be use in alloy or cast iron if possible ( the generator bracket for example) Galling, thread pulling and edge lifting are common and many times prevent a satisfactory seal. I simply chase the holes, chamfer the outer edges and clean (brake cleaner and acetone) twice with Q tips and use studs with Loctite red 271 stud and bearing adhesive. Now a uniform torque and easy removal if needed. All my Climax engine studs and there are hundreds are installed in this manner.
I have one lovely diff case remaining if you need one. Just sent a complete S4 heater assembly and S3 wiper motor stuff down to Southern Australia and a 3.77 diff off to the east coast. DHL and our postal service are great.
Cheers. Mike, in Richmond, CA (510) 232-7764 if I can help.