Rear suspension Droop limiting devices.
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This is what I used when I had spax rear shocks. I found I did not need it when I fitted TTR Koni's The cable connects at the top end with a tab welded to the front bottom of the rear strut tower. The cable took little load as the spring load and weight combined at full droop was only a maybe 20 Kg
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Got to love all the engineering in those photo's Steve. I didn't know where to look first.
Glen
05 Elise - Back where I started
65 Elan S2 - 26/4055
72 Europa - 74/2358R
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05 Elise - Back where I started
65 Elan S2 - 26/4055
72 Europa - 74/2358R
69 Elan S4 - 45/7941
64 Elan S1 - 26/0379
12 Colin 30 - Lotus Racing Kart
07 Exige S - Wicked Road/Track Car
07 Exige S - Fast Road/Track Car
06 Elise - Track pack
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Certified Lotus - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Norman,
I shortened the piston rod of the strut. You have to be careful though, as having shortened the rod, that rod can then drop into the damper body, probably damaging the seal.
Happy New Year.
Richard Hawkins
I shortened the piston rod of the strut. You have to be careful though, as having shortened the rod, that rod can then drop into the damper body, probably damaging the seal.
Happy New Year.
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
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RichardHawkins wrote:Norman,
I shortened the piston rod of the strut. You have to be careful though, as having shortened the rod, that rod can then drop into the damper body, probably damaging the seal.
Happy New Year.
Richard Hawkins
If I understand you correctly, you use the rod hitting the top of the inside of the damper casing as your droop limiter?
- stevebroad
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Steve,
Yes that is correct. If I understand correctly it is the rod hitting the inside of the top of the damper that limits the droop of the original design using rotaflex joints. By shortening the rod at the top end I am actually removing motion from the bottom of the suspension travel. I did this once before for a friend who was using universal joint drive shafts. He wanted 2" removed. I presume he was happy, as he has never mentioned it since.
Richard Hawkins
Yes that is correct. If I understand correctly it is the rod hitting the inside of the top of the damper that limits the droop of the original design using rotaflex joints. By shortening the rod at the top end I am actually removing motion from the bottom of the suspension travel. I did this once before for a friend who was using universal joint drive shafts. He wanted 2" removed. I presume he was happy, as he has never mentioned it since.
Richard Hawkins
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RichardHawkins wrote:Steve,
Yes that is correct. If I understand correctly it is the rod hitting the inside of the top of the damper that limits the droop of the original design using rotaflex joints. By shortening the rod at the top end I am actually removing motion from the bottom of the suspension travel. I did this once before for a friend who was using universal joint drive shafts. He wanted 2" removed. I presume he was happy, as he has never mentioned it since.
Richard Hawkins
Can you describe the procedure for shortening the damper shafts?
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
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My solution is very Heath Robinson but has worked well on my car for years and many miles. Sorry no pics to hand but it is very simple.
I loop a length of 1" wide nylon webbing (luggage strap in fact) over the top of the suspension tower and then clamp each end to the suspension upright with a pair of good quality hose clips. It is easy then to adjust to the maximum safe droop, simply jack up the rear of the car under the upright, put a support under the body (with proper load spreading), then lower the jack to get appropriate maximum droop, checking for free rotation of the CV joints as you go, then jack up a little to allow for take up in the webbing, pull the strap tight both sides and tighten the hose clamps. Finally lower the jack and check free rotation of the shaft and you are all done. The advertised max load of the webbing luggage straps I use is 225k, so a looped strap gives plenty of strength for the load imposed by the drooping suspension bearing in mind that the dampers prevent shock loading.
Vernon
I loop a length of 1" wide nylon webbing (luggage strap in fact) over the top of the suspension tower and then clamp each end to the suspension upright with a pair of good quality hose clips. It is easy then to adjust to the maximum safe droop, simply jack up the rear of the car under the upright, put a support under the body (with proper load spreading), then lower the jack to get appropriate maximum droop, checking for free rotation of the CV joints as you go, then jack up a little to allow for take up in the webbing, pull the strap tight both sides and tighten the hose clamps. Finally lower the jack and check free rotation of the shaft and you are all done. The advertised max load of the webbing luggage straps I use is 225k, so a looped strap gives plenty of strength for the load imposed by the drooping suspension bearing in mind that the dampers prevent shock loading.
Vernon
Elan S2 26/5614
Alfa Romeo Alfetta Berlina 1974
Westfield 7SE
Alfa Romeo Alfetta Berlina 1974
Westfield 7SE
- quaybook
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[/quote]Oh dear, how much weight did you loose/save by making all these chassis holes ?
Sorry, I mean the chassis of course, and not you
Peter[/quote]
1.82kg
Sorry, I mean the chassis of course, and not you
Peter[/quote]
1.82kg
- stevebroad
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quaybook wrote:My solution is very Heath Robinson but has worked well on my car for years and many miles. Sorry no pics to hand but it is very simple.
I loop a length of 1" wide nylon webbing (luggage strap in fact) over the top of the suspension tower and then clamp each end to the suspension upright with a pair of good quality hose clips Vernon
Much the same here although fitted as a temporary measure I may refine or alter when I get the time.
Brian
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72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
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