rotoflex - any ingenius ideas to cut cussing for hrs!!!!

[el-saturn]

happy easter holiday everybody - i'll post some pictures once everything is back on board!
HOWEVER: does anybody have a super idea to align the three wickedest parts on the drivetrain:
rotoflex, stubaxle and brake disc - i gave up at 11.00 PM - with backache and eevrything else
that hasn't been moving enough (my frail chassis) thanks for any ideas sandy j. 36/4982
..............EASTER photo added: as colorful as your average easter basket!!

[69S4]

I haven't got any demon tweek shortcuts for that job so all I can say is I feel your pain - or I have in the past many times. It'll probably seem easier after a night's sleep though.

[el-saturn]

thanks stewart - shared pain is half the pain: an old swiss saying! i'm at my workshop now:
upgrading the tools i could also need. sandy j

[rgh0]

It easy with practice.

I used to do it this way when i had donuts - got to be able to do a donut it in about 30 minutes per side!

1. Support the car on stands and then jack under the rear hub to lift the drive shaft approximately straight so no bending stresses on the donuts..
2. Clamp with a worm drive hose clamp around the donut and remove the bolts and then the donut. Do the inner first and then the outer. Adjust the clamp tension as needed so the bolts slide out out easily
3. Fit the hose clamp around the new outer donut and adjust so the bolts easily fit it to the hub shaft, disk, and intermediate shaft.
4. Finally fit the inner donut in the same way. .

cheers
Rohan

[69S4]

It easy with practice.

I used to do it this way when i had donuts - got to be able to do a donut it in about 30 minutes per side!

Rohan

30 mins per side! The last four I did took me about half a day each - hence my sympathetic earlier post. And that was using exactly the method you gave.

[billwill]

For my full pictorial guide on how to do this, see this topic:
drive-train-gearbox-final-drive-f37/replacing-the-doughnuts-t16456.html?hilit=doughnuts#p117207

This technique is the result of hard experience as I've done this job several times.

[Bud English]

My last four took about an hour, total for all four. But then it's a lot easier with the body off.

Seriously, the method Rohan describes is the best I've found. Using three smaller hose clamps strung together, placed around the rotoflex, gives you three adjustment points between the three bolts for fine tuning.

Stay at it. The last bolt you put in will be the easiest.

[billwill]

Seriously, the method Rohan describes is the best I've found. Using three smaller hose clamps strung together, placed around the rotoflex, gives you three adjustment points between the three bolts for fine tuning.

True, but that is only ONE portion of the techniques I describe.

[JJDraper]

Second the three jubilee clip method (used in Imps as well). Another tweak is to (safely) jack up the suspension to eliminate droop while you align everything. Make sure the car is safely supported with axle stands etc before doing this & make sure the jack cannot slip out sideways...

Jeremy

[Bud English]

Bill wrote:
True, but that is only ONE portion of the techniques I describe.

Your quicker than me. You must have posted that link while I was replying. All good info. You've fine tuned it!

[holywood3645]

I have found that Wratchet straps used to compress the spring works well (ONE EACH SIDE of spring) be carefull they can slip. I have also used 1/2 inch jublee clips (gear clamps) around the coil help avoid slipage. This in conjuction with using jacking ideas previously discussed make the job as easy as it can be. Using the strap/wrachets to further compress the spring to get the shaft alingment at 90 degrees (no droop) works, but still a pain.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rat ... ORM=IQFRBA

It's not a competaton about how quick it can be done, just take your time and be carefull.

[el-saturn]

many an hour later................................................... the chap who owned my car back in the seventies
evidently had the body off when he set the two bolts for the rear wishbone: the frontal ones were 180?
false. so i had to use my sledge hammer slamming the bolt into the edge of bodywork (probably a
half inch of fibers and resin right there) which i after 2hrs of getting furious finally could remove. the right
i did after the left: 1/2 the time BUT as maybe unclear i also a new strut, new everything as i?ve already shown: the upright is, by the way an issue 18. the photos show the right corner before "it jumped back in" - the condition of all of the parts (and my chassis) is quite a bit different from the thread i also got (thanks mate!) - i changed the brake pads and as you may want to know: all of the new parts are Tony Thompson originals. The front will take much less time - you?ll also see that progess also! happy easter sandy j 36/4982 the last choras is also the 1st picture: 1.00AM

[stevebroad]

When I had donuts, I used 3 jubilee clips joined together as this allowed for fine adjustment making job a lot easier.

[reb53]

I've always used bolts slightly longer than necessary and machined a slight taper on the end.
Bit of a tap, and you don't wreck the threads.

Ralph.

[billwill]

I've always used bolts slightly longer than necessary and machined a slight taper on the end.
Bit of a tap, and you don't wreck the threads.

Ralph.

Yes I used to do things like that, filing a taper on etc, but I assure you if you follow the procedure I gave in
drive-train-gearbox-final-drive-f37/replacing-the-doughnuts-t16456.html?hilit=doughnuts#p117207
you won't need to do that.

One of my key tricks is that on the brake disk spider, you put the old bolts in first backwards (from inside towards outside) without nuts, which is easy to do and you don't care if the tread gets damaged tapping it in (#). Then you put the new bolts in the right way around (from outside to inside) and the new bolts pushes the old one out.

(#) properly set up on the bench using 3 jubilee clips onto the 'half-shaft' and checking the fit against the other half shaft, the bolts will line up anyway and won't need any taper.