seized clutch

[elan_fan]

Well I won a small battle today. Trying to re commision my S4, replaced vac pipes so headlamp pods work as there was a leak due to heat damage adjacent to the ex manifold. I even managed to get the courtesy lamp to work (that one has been bugging me for years). The clutch is the only thing between me and the MOT tester but try as I might the plate won't part company with the flywheel. Starting to run out of ideas now.

Mark

[69S4]

Hi Mark. What have you tried so far? I've had this happen loads of times when the car hasn't been used for a while - particularly over the winter. I'm assuming that you don't have a "real" problem - hydraulics, release arm etc not working properly and that it's surface rust sticking the plates together.

First thing I'd suggest is a couple of heat cycles. Warm the engine up long enough for the heat to soak through to the clutch area. It'll take longer than you think. This has done it for me in mild cases. If it doesn't then you may need to be brutal with it. With the engine warm keep the clutch down and start it in gear. The shock loadings usually frees things up but it may take a few goes. Be prepared for a bang and soaring revs. I'm lucky in that my drive is long enough to do this off the public road but it may be difficult if you don't have the space.

[elan_fan]

Hi Stuart, I've done some heat cycles, started it in gear, took the rear wheels off and sat it on blocks power on and jabbing the brakes. no joy. Last resort is to go kangarooing down the road .

[persiflage]

Mark,
Had that same problem several times.

I have so far always managed to free it by very securely mounting the rear on axle stands and followed the same procedure that you have followed. I have always left the wheels on the car, I am sure the extra load of the rotating mass helps. It has however, still taken more effort and time than I have expected.

[69S4]

It's the kangarooing - the load reversals between power on and power off that have been the important bit. It has taken more than a few goes sometimes and I've even given up and pushed the car back into the garage, mentally preparing to take the engine out but come back to it a few days later and found it freed up straight away.

[Alasdair]

Assume you can drive without the clutch, do so and at 30 mph or so, dip the clutch and play with the throttle, will not take long to fee.

I curred this long ago by running a bead of silicone across the back of the block where the bell housing meets the block, this is where all the water drops to, being directly above the bonnet opening.

[ttaunton]

There are two methods that I have used with success, they will work as long as your release bearing is doing its stuff.

Number 1. First things first: Sit in the car, preferably not facing the garage wall. One foot on the brake and the other on the clutch. Lever in top gear. Key the starter. If you are lucky the clutch may release. If not then we need to use more power. (Starter motors are about 6-10 hp) get in the car, on a bit of clear road, bearing in mind that you won't be able to stop easily without stalling the engine, so early Sunday morning is favourite. Put lever into first gear, then turn the key, engine will start and you are on the move. You will be able to change gear without the clutch, the synchro will do the work: just "offer up" the lever to the next gear with a bit of pressure and the dogs will engage when the revs are right. It is easy to get the hang of. Coming down you need to be a bit more skilful, revving it while you are in neutral to match the revs before offering the lever up.
While going along use both feet to keep the clutch depressed and accelerate at the same time. Accelerate hard and the clutch may release immediately because you are now trying to put quite a few horsepower through your "stuck" clutch: you have the clutch pedal depressed so there is no spring pressure from the clutch cover, you are basically trying to put power through a layer of gunge. It will suddenly release, and you revs will rise, so be ready. I once had to accelerate hard past 70 to release mine. Once it has released slip the clutch to burn off the crud.
Number 2. This one is difficult and involves getting under the car. Remove starter motor so you can (with difficulty) access the flywheel, and feel the clutch cover inside the bell housing through the hole. Get someone to press the clutch pedal. The clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel, but between the bolts the cover is scalloped up, so rotate the flywheel into position and using a torch/morror you can just see the edge of the clutch plate inside the clutch cover, under one of the scalloped bits. Get a hack saw blade, heat it and bend it so you have a 4" bit at right angles. then grind the end into a knife edge. Working by feel through the starter hole, poke this under one of the scalloped bits of the cover, and you can then feel the edge of the clutch plate. Make sure she is still pressing the clutch. Push it between the plate and the flywheel or pressure plate, turn the blade, and you will hear a blessed "click" as the plate releases. Bob's your nob. When I finally replaced my clutch plate, I found that the flywheel, pressure plate etc were all coated in a sticky deposit, probably 20 years of condensation and clutch dust and a cheap plate.

[billwill]

I seem to remember doing your Number 2 method, but instead of a hacksaw blade I drilled a hole in the Bell Housing so that I could get a nice strong screwdriver in to twist the clutch off the flywheel plate.

[elan_fan]

SUCCESS!!!!

I jacked up the car and investigated pulling out the starter. I thought I would just give it one last try as the sun was out today. I jacked the rear up using some thick ply covered in carpet under the a frames that I have cut to shape . I left the wheels on this time, warmed the engine and just ran up the car in 3rd gear, clutch in, rev and hit the brakes 3 times and no loud bangs or fuss. The clutch is now free and I drove the car for the first time in 5 years. I'm very please right now. Thanks for the ideas and the PM's. I think the wheels on made all the difference, bit of flywheel effect.