CV joint conversion

[leifanten]

I am in the middle of converting to RD Enterprise CV joint rear axles. I welcome any advice as to which is the better way to do the assembly, by removing the wishbone to clear up space to install complete CV axle or to break the CV joint at the flange to the disc that connects to the outeboard axle stub and install in two pieces? Or any other advice that would make life easier from learning from any mistakes done by others.

Leif
Houston
69 Elan +2

[RotoFlexible]

Hi Leif,

I broke the joints by undoing the six bolts that hold each joint to the adapter flanges. You need an 8mm "12 point, triple square metric internal wrench bit." I picked up a set of four bits (Lisle 60750) at my local auto parts store. There are two sets of holes on the outer flange to mate with slightly different outer drive shafts, be sure to use the correct holes. They are a tight fit. I was in the middle of a complete suspension rebuild at the time, so not sure if the wishbones were on or off, but it should be no problem installing them this way with the wishbones on.

When removing the output shafts from the diff, be very sure to get the lock rings out and clean up everything before using the slide hammer. I had the advantage of doing this on the workbench. This is also a good opportunity to replace the output shaft oil seals.

Good luck and best wishes for a speedy return to the road.

[stugilmour]

Leif:

I did this job this summer with the shafts from RD. I had to undo the twelve point screws in order to re-orientate to the correct hole size for the Lotus shafts as described above. This was no big deal, but you do need the tool described above. They have very little torque on the fasteners; Ray did not have a torque setting available; I think I used about 15 lb or so. So definitely check hole alignment on both ends before installing, as the hole spacings are very close to one another.

The twelve point is a common tool in the VW world I understand, which I believe is the source of the CV joints.

I also had to relieve the rear brake rotor and inner hub holes slightly to get proper fitment; I used a Dremel and took about five shots per hole to get it right. I bought an expensive reaming bit for this job, but found the Dremel the way to go in practice.

I was also doing a complete rebuild with the body removed, so I installed shafts in assembled condition. Can't recall the assembly order exactly, but I remember thinking how much easier it must be with the body out of the way!

Here is a link to an earlier thread with a pic of my install. Also indicates the source of the shafts in another link.

elan-plus-f13/never-use-your-rotoflexes-t18362.html

I also have the extra dif brace installed now. I was able to get it in without disassembling everything, but this was with the body off and on a Spyder frame, which has additional clearance in the dif area. This would be a diabolical job on the stock frame with the body on due to clearance issues.

Cheers!

[leifanten]

Guys,
thanks for phenomenal advice. When I asked RD I was told to remove the wishbone. I followed the advice on the forum instead. By breaking the CV axle and installing in three pieces it is a piece of cake to get it in place. I also do not understand why RD dont supply the assembly with a new snap lock ring. It is a bit of a pain to remove an transfer the existing one. Well, anyway, it is now in place and looks fantastic. (I even managed to pry the inner drive shaft from the diff house without having to use a slide pull. They came right out by a firm pry with a 10'' crow-bar

Leif