Bleeding clutch!!

PostPost by: Jason1 » Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:38 pm

Hi guys

I have tried:

1. bleeding with tube submerged in fluid
2. Tube in fluid and pressure bleeder
3. Tube with 1 way valve in fluid and pressure bleeder
4. leaving the pedal held down over night and re-bleeding

and I still cannot get a decent pedal, any tips??

Thanks

Jason
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PostPost by: neilsjuke » Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:07 pm

Is the bleed niple above the pipe or you will get a air lock and keep the pipe away from the manifold or fluid may boil.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Mon Sep 01, 2008 2:28 am

This is going to turn into a two man job. With the clutch depressed, is the pushrod of the slave out and stays out, or does it go out and slowly go back in? If the latter, then it sounds like either the master or slave is going bad. If the former, then there's still air in the system. What's the reason for bleeding the clutch? New master or slave? If so, did you replace them both?

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PostPost by: peterako » Mon Sep 01, 2008 10:30 am

Neil!

How did you manage to get so much clearance between teh Exhaust and teh Slave?

I'm envious...

Regarding teh bleeding...

Spent ages and ages doing this before I got it right. Involved teh pressure bottles plus flowing fliud freely through teh slave to ensure taht no air existed.

Stick with it, it's worth it!

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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Mon Sep 01, 2008 10:48 am

If the seals, hoses, pipes etc. are in good shape and the car is drivable, just drive it and wait for it to finish the bleeding process itself. I went through this earlier this year and it worked for me. I speculate that it's difficult to get the bubble of air all the way down to the slave, but if you drive the car, it somehow gets sucked back into the master and escapes through the reservoir. If that theory is correct, you should be able to achieve the bleed by depressing the clutch, holding it for a few seconds (as if at a stoplight), then releasing and pumping it a few times (as if running through the gears).
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:27 pm

Other possibility is that the threaded rod from the slave that engages in the clutch arm is not properly adjusted.
I thought I had a bleeding problem after I replaced the clutch. Would always need two pumps to disengage the clutch.
Eventually realised that the adjustment was out.

Tim
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PostPost by: neilsjuke » Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:45 pm

I do have the advantage of a vac bleeder running off the air line it is the best way to bleed /suck the air out it's fast and works first time as for the gap Peter have you got the short or long cylinder plus the manifold is a SS so it's away from the cylinder because it such a bad fit hits every thing else.
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PostPost by: peterako » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:28 pm

neilsjuke wrote:Peter have you got the short or long cylinder plus the manifold is a SS so it's away from the cylinder because it such a bad fit hits every thing else.
Neil


Pretty sure it's a short cylinder.

:shock: SS exhaust knocking....could this be the fix for all my other knocking sounds??? :D

Sun's out.....may go for a drive!

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PostPost by: avhation » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:48 pm

Maybe I've been lucky but always in the past I have got away with just filling up the resevoir, letting fluid dribble out of the bleed valve and then driving the car. Marginal clutch release quickly improves with use/heat/vibration.
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:15 pm

Hi

I replaced the M/C and slave seals and the flexy pipe as I had a broken pedal spring so had to have the pedalbox out anyway.

Sadley I am only one man as the wife is 7 months pregnant and cannot get under the car or behind the steering wheel.

I read in the archive that the slave nipple needs to be at the very top or you cannot get the bubble out, so I will check this at the weekend. I will also check the adjustment as suggested but as it was fine before the pedal spring broke I am not hopefully.
I also read in the archive that some people have had success using a long tube on the nipple and sucking the fuild and air out, I may give this a go.

I cannot drive the car as I need to rebuild the passenger side rear suspension, I have already done the driver's side but the other side is up against the garden fence so I need to turn the car around. The pedal spring broke last time I tried to turn the car around.

I'll get there, thanks for the advice I will try them all, if anyone else has any more suggestions I will try them too.

Thanks

Jason
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PostPost by: saildrive2001 » Tue Sep 02, 2008 3:37 pm

Neil,
Where did you get the vac bleeder & how does it work?
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PostPost by: neilsjuke » Tue Sep 02, 2008 3:50 pm

My Vac brake bleeder is a few years old it runs of an airline and makes a vac by venturi same as how a carb works you will find some on ebay type in brake bleeder some work of air line or hand pump.
Neil
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PostPost by: oldokie » Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:43 pm

Avhation's method has always worked for me, barely 'crack' the bleeder, let the weight of the fluid push the air out. I give it about 5 minutes, but keep the master filled.
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Tue Sep 02, 2008 11:14 pm

Sadley I am only one man as the wife is 7 months pregnant and cannot get under the car or behind the steering wheel.


If you place some railroad ties under the jack stands you can normally fit a third trimester pregnant woman under an elan, unless of course the pregnancy involves twins or greater, then all bets are off.

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PostPost by: Jason1 » Wed Sep 03, 2008 7:25 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks for the suggestion G I will tell the wife, I am not convinced she will go for it though.

Jason
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