Stuck between gears
5 posts
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Ok, the first time it was an inconvience and it took a little time to figure out and correct. But the second time, this afternoon when moving the car into the garage, when I pulled up on the gear lever to put it into reverse, the lever became stuck between two gears. Now it has become a pain I do not need to deal with again. Is this common, are others having this problem, could someone give me a clue as to how to avoid/fix this problem?
Rob Walker
Rob Walker
- 264889socal
- Second Gear
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 09 Feb 2007
It shouldn't happen, ever.
You may have an internal fault with the the selectors (wear/damage to the slots is most likely), but if it's a 4 speed box it's worth checking that the nylon cup that screws down to retain the gearlever has not worked loose, causing the end of the gearlever to be only partially engaged with the slots in the selector rods.
Worth unscrewing it completely, in fact (you need to take the top off the transmission tunnel to get at it), to clean and lube the ball on the gear lever, check the condition of the selector rods, then re-assemble.
You may have an internal fault with the the selectors (wear/damage to the slots is most likely), but if it's a 4 speed box it's worth checking that the nylon cup that screws down to retain the gearlever has not worked loose, causing the end of the gearlever to be only partially engaged with the slots in the selector rods.
Worth unscrewing it completely, in fact (you need to take the top off the transmission tunnel to get at it), to clean and lube the ball on the gear lever, check the condition of the selector rods, then re-assemble.
- MintSprint
- Second Gear
- Posts: 146
- Joined: 27 Jun 2006
MintSprint,
Thanks for the reply. To release the gear lever, I have found I have to unscrew the cup as far as it will go and pull up on the gear lever. This seems to allow the lever to return to its correct location. Takes but a few minutes. Of note, is your statement regarding the nylon cup. Yesterday I removed the entire cup assembly in attempt to find the probable cause. The only thing I noticed was the steel cup was slightly deformed around the hole, which surrounds the gear lever. A small amount of light hammer work and I was able to return the size and shape of the hole to a reasonable original condition. However, there was no nylon cup to be seen. It may have been stuck in the steel outer housing, as I did not look inside that part. Will whip it off when I get back from the races this weekend.
Additionally, I noticed a slight amount of gear oil leakage around the base of the outer housing. There seems to be a gasket at its base, but it does not seal completly. Is there a better method of sealing between the outer housing and the case, an 0-ring or better gasket??? Or does it normally just add to the rust inhibitor on my garage floor.
Thanks,
Rob Walker
Thanks for the reply. To release the gear lever, I have found I have to unscrew the cup as far as it will go and pull up on the gear lever. This seems to allow the lever to return to its correct location. Takes but a few minutes. Of note, is your statement regarding the nylon cup. Yesterday I removed the entire cup assembly in attempt to find the probable cause. The only thing I noticed was the steel cup was slightly deformed around the hole, which surrounds the gear lever. A small amount of light hammer work and I was able to return the size and shape of the hole to a reasonable original condition. However, there was no nylon cup to be seen. It may have been stuck in the steel outer housing, as I did not look inside that part. Will whip it off when I get back from the races this weekend.
Additionally, I noticed a slight amount of gear oil leakage around the base of the outer housing. There seems to be a gasket at its base, but it does not seal completly. Is there a better method of sealing between the outer housing and the case, an 0-ring or better gasket??? Or does it normally just add to the rust inhibitor on my garage floor.
Thanks,
Rob Walker
- 264889socal
- Second Gear
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 09 Feb 2007
Early cups that screwed onto the shifter housing were steel, later ones were a nylon type of material. I have found shim stock in between the screw on cup and shifter base in the past, if the cup is screwed on to far you can not engage reverse and not screwed on far enough you may get it to jam as you decribed.
Gary
Gary
-
garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
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