Clutch Lottery..

[JJDraper]

My +2 clutch has gradually started being unpredictable. It usually performs correctly, but every now and then will not disengage fully - most unsettling in traffic! I have to 'shock' the car out of gear when this happens by smartly hitting the gearlever into neutral, whilst holding the car stationary with the brakes and trying to rev the engine to stop it stalling.. It usually happens once or twice in a 15 mile trip in town. The gear selection has also become baulky when selecting first. I have tried adjusting the clutch pushrod, from just being able to rotate the rod to about 2 or 3mm play. Having more play seems to improve matters, but does not stop the occasional clutch drag.. Selecting reverse without gears clashing is also becoming a problem.

The clutch fluid has been flushed out and bled, but I still have a rubber clutch hose Could this be the source of the problem? I purchased a SS braided clutch hose from PM some time ago, but it doesn't seem to line up with the existing arrangement and has angled unions at each end so has remained in its bag.

Any thoughts?

Jeremy

[Elanintheforest]

Jeremy...the clutch hose can break down over time and 'balloon' when pressure is applied, hence not fully releasing the clutch. The hotter the hose, from engine heat, the worse it becomes.
Mark

[elansprint71]

Mark beat me to it with the sensible suggestion and most likely cause of your problem.
Alternatively, you could try not driving in town or going into first gear and never, ever, reverse.

[JJDraper]

Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like I am going to have to put together a selection of adaptors & joints to make the PM kit fit.... it just seems too short!

Jeremy

[stuartgb100]

Jeremy,

Would it be worth a quick call to Matty's ? Seems odd they'd get it wrong.
Maybe sent you the wrong part by mistake?

Regards,
Stuart.

[oldokie]

My Plus 2 had bundy pipe laid almost on the header, when it got 'iffy' I found it had bulged way out on the bottom. I should have replaced it, but I went to Long Beach instead (still F1 in those days), coming home up 2nd street in post race traffic, it blew, large cloud of white smoke, quick left on a side street, wait 3 hours for traffic to clear, remaining 30 miles home w/o clutch, replace pinion on starter and clutch line with a long steel brake line with coils bent into it to allow for engine movement. Made a small heat shield.

[JJDraper]

Well I went down the SS Braided hose route. Much tidier than the mish mash of hoses and metal pipes.... Easier clutch action, but.. no difference to the clutch lottery. The situation has deteriorated and some alarming noises have come from the bowels of the car. Metallic squeals, rattles, fizzing type noises that change when I touch the clutch pedal. I could not engage any gear at a junction this morning. Turned the engine off - easy to engage. Started engine in gear with clutch pedal down and managed to limp home.

Time for engine out I think. Just as the sun comes out..... Bu**er!

Jeremy

[r.agnew]

Could be the springs in the pressure plate getting weak or starting to break up, or the clutch release bearing is beginning to give up the ghost. Either way , it's engine out time.
Rob

[oldokie]

I would suggest replacing release bearing, pressure plate,& disc if you're taking the engine out. I like the set with machined faces, the stamped steel and fingers set lasted about 940 miles in mine!

[1964 S1]

Hello oldokie, what do you mean by machined faces? Eric

[JJDraper]

Update, if you're interested... collapsed spigot bearing causing the gearbox input shaft to bind slightly as the bearing became notchy. This causes the gearbox to be driven slightly even with the clutch disengaged.

My major surprise was finding a 6 bolt crank when I was expecting a 4 bolt one (based on the engine number)...

Jeremy

[bill308]

Thanks for the update Jeremy. Was a needle or brass bushing fitted?

Bill

[JJDraper]

Problems keep mounting! The spigot bearing was the a needle roller type, and was easy to replace, however, the gearbox input shaft is a little 'scuffed', but the mechanics suggest it can be dressed up to be reasonable. Another surprise is that the flywheel is lightweight, very lightweight, with only enough friction area for an 8inch plate. Mech said he has never seen one as light. The remaining area has been machined thinner to lose weight. He was concerned that it may shatter if revved too high, but should be OK in a road car (crossed fingers). To get the gearbox & engine apart it appears the original driven plate was slightly bent, and they now say 8" plates are no longer available, or at least difficult to source. AP say it is out of production.

The lightweight flywheel provides a possible explanation for several aspects of driving the +2.

First, always been easy to start, perhaps the lack of mass makes it easier for the Lucas starter to do its job.

Second, finesse needed for smooth get away from a standstill - two modes, either a bit cautious or you rev it and spin the wheels.. I thought they were all like that!

Rev Happy - ditto above..

Faster revs than I was expecting to maintain smooth tickover.

I guess there are pros and cons to the flywheel issue, but on the mechs advice I will start looking for a less radical flywheel. Any thoughts?

Any ideas for a source of 8" clutch plates? Please don't say PM because they are doing the work!!

Jeremy

Jeremy

[oldokie]

Eric, sorry about the slow answer, the pressure plate and release bearing both have a smooth machined face that allows for some slippage on initial engagement. Sorry, but I seem to have misplaced the p/n's. Hopefully someone else on the forum can supply them. Jeremy, if the input shaft is too rough, you could have it 'metalized', but it would mean taking the gearbox apart.

[tower of strength]

Jeremy,

try Burtons for the clutch plate, or go to your friendly motor factor and get a clutch catalogue, you'll find that all the clutches have dimensions for the splined centre(including spline numbers) and external dimensions. I had to do this for my 5 speed conversion (MT75). I'm still using the standard pressure plate.

regards

Mark