Clutch slave 'C' clip question
13 posts
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Yep, I use circlips, no problem.
I find the standard 'C' clips are a pig to remove if they've corroded into place and 'sprain' as often as not when you remove them, so you can't re-use them even if they aren't corroded.
I find the standard 'C' clips are a pig to remove if they've corroded into place and 'sprain' as often as not when you remove them, so you can't re-use them even if they aren't corroded.
- MintSprint
- Second Gear
- Posts: 146
- Joined: 27 Jun 2006
All you listers who are constantly rebuilding your clutch slave, keep in mind that if you do not shield it from the exhaust, you will cook it and you will be rebuilding it again. I fabricated a heat shield years ago and haven't been down there since. Just a suggestion.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 919
- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
Frank Howard wrote:All you listers who are constantly rebuilding your clutch slave, keep in mind that if you do not shield it from the exhaust, you will cook it and you will be rebuilding it again. I fabricated a heat shield years ago and haven't been down there since. Just a suggestion.
Could you please post a picture of the heatshield?
As I'm not able to bleed my clutcch slave properly, perhaps the fluid is getting too hot and causes airbubbles?
Bjorn-Anders, Norway
'95 Caterham Seven Roadsport
'02 Elise Supercharged
ex Europa S2
ex Elan +2S 130
ex Esprit Turbo
ex Caterham SS
Life is too short to drive boring cars
'95 Caterham Seven Roadsport
'02 Elise Supercharged
ex Europa S2
ex Elan +2S 130
ex Esprit Turbo
ex Caterham SS
Life is too short to drive boring cars
-
b-havers - Third Gear
- Posts: 233
- Joined: 29 May 2006
Hello all
I found a 1 1/16" ID circlip thay matches the original C clip at the local hardware store.
Phil
I found a 1 1/16" ID circlip thay matches the original C clip at the local hardware store.
Phil
Phil
1968 S4/SE FHC 36-7936
1968 S4/SE FHC 36-7936
- pamitchell
- Third Gear
- Posts: 269
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
[/quote]Could you please post a picture of the heatshield?[/quote]
Bjorn,
The answer is no. Why? Because even though I have a digital camera, I have not figured out how to get the photos out of the camera and into the computer. Why can't I do this? Because I am a computer idiot. I will attempt to explain it to you though.
First, I got a small piece of aluminum angle stock to use as a holder for the shield. This piece of aluminum is attached via the two lowest bell housing bolts, the ones that hold the dust shield on. (I think I had to replace the bolts with longer ones.) The dimension for the aluminum angle stock holder is probably 1/2" X 1/2" (13mm X 13mm). The holder has a slight kink in it as it extends from the bottom of the bell housing to the area in between the slave and the exhaust. A long piece of sheet aluminum, thin enough so that you can easily bend it, is attached to the end of the holder. This piece of sheet aluminum is cut to size, forming a shield that follows the 90 degree curve of the exhaust headers as they wrap around the slave. The two bolts that attach the shield to the holder are located so that they can be removed in situ, then the holder can be removed, finally the shield can be removed. The shield is rather difficult to remove as it requires plenty of bending to do so.
OK, OK, I'll figure out the digital photo posting process!
Bjorn,
The answer is no. Why? Because even though I have a digital camera, I have not figured out how to get the photos out of the camera and into the computer. Why can't I do this? Because I am a computer idiot. I will attempt to explain it to you though.
First, I got a small piece of aluminum angle stock to use as a holder for the shield. This piece of aluminum is attached via the two lowest bell housing bolts, the ones that hold the dust shield on. (I think I had to replace the bolts with longer ones.) The dimension for the aluminum angle stock holder is probably 1/2" X 1/2" (13mm X 13mm). The holder has a slight kink in it as it extends from the bottom of the bell housing to the area in between the slave and the exhaust. A long piece of sheet aluminum, thin enough so that you can easily bend it, is attached to the end of the holder. This piece of sheet aluminum is cut to size, forming a shield that follows the 90 degree curve of the exhaust headers as they wrap around the slave. The two bolts that attach the shield to the holder are located so that they can be removed in situ, then the holder can be removed, finally the shield can be removed. The shield is rather difficult to remove as it requires plenty of bending to do so.
OK, OK, I'll figure out the digital photo posting process!
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 919
- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
Thanks, I think I can figure it out
I was most interested in seeing the mounting points.
BTW;
moving files (photoes) from a camera to a computer is pretty easy;
Conect the camera to the computer with the cable that followed in the camera-box.
You may perhaps install a program for the transfer, if so this is on an CD in the camera box.
Then a wizard will show up, telling you what to do
I was most interested in seeing the mounting points.
BTW;
moving files (photoes) from a camera to a computer is pretty easy;
Conect the camera to the computer with the cable that followed in the camera-box.
You may perhaps install a program for the transfer, if so this is on an CD in the camera box.
Then a wizard will show up, telling you what to do
Bjorn-Anders, Norway
'95 Caterham Seven Roadsport
'02 Elise Supercharged
ex Europa S2
ex Elan +2S 130
ex Esprit Turbo
ex Caterham SS
Life is too short to drive boring cars
'95 Caterham Seven Roadsport
'02 Elise Supercharged
ex Europa S2
ex Elan +2S 130
ex Esprit Turbo
ex Caterham SS
Life is too short to drive boring cars
-
b-havers - Third Gear
- Posts: 233
- Joined: 29 May 2006
If you need any infromation on circlips try this link: www.citeq.co.uk They have a full catalogue available which list all types and sizes of circlip. Having determined what you need it is just a quick visit to your local bearing supplier.
Regards
Andy
Regards
Andy
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andyhodg - Third Gear
- Posts: 325
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005
ecamiel wrote:I used circlips - worked great for years untill it popped off. I think dirt got in the grove because it is so narrow and made a ramp that allowed it to pop off.
Eric
64 S1
Eric is quite right about the snap rings getting crud in the groove and allowing the slave to move about and eventually pop off. It then dumps brake fluid onto the hot exhaust with the resulting fire. If you want to do this on your own Elan I don't mind but please use the right Clip and get the right plyers for the job. These are an expanding plyers with a serated tip that grabs the sharp points of the ends of the C , the ends of the C clip are beveled and are designed to go on in one way. If you put them on the wrong way you will have a devil of a time getting them off(sounds like some of you already know about this from first hand experiance). If you put new bearings in the gearbox you see that ford has used C clips there too so that new tool may come in handy again. If Ford could have used a cheap snap ring on the millions of cars the built I think they would have, think about what you recomend to the folks here on the forum.
Gary
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
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