S4 Federal headlight crossbar

[gjz30075]

Whilst I had the heavy duty headlight raiser upper spring off, I notice my crossbar had a fair
amount of play at both ends. It's been a long time since I had that bar off the car and I
can't remember what's inside. Does anyone have their bar off the car and can take a pic
of the inside at the end? Is this normal?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155555905 ... ed-public/

[pharriso]

Greg, that does seem like too much play.

How did you take that video, isn't the radiator in the way?

[gjz30075]

Phil, I took the video through the grille opening (grille removed), shooting up to the crossbar connection
on the right hand side (passenger, US car). I think the large flange on the end of the bar
has a 1/4" hole in it to allow the pod pivot bolt to pass through and, if so, the hole is probably
quite worn, which is why I'm asking for a picture of the end of the bar.

[spyzee]

Hi,

maybe these photos help as this what my bar looks like. As you can see it is literally a hollow tube with a nut welded on either end

Colin

[gjz30075]

Thanks Colin. Obviously my pod mounting bolt is not threaded in the crossbar. Either the threads are
totally stripped out or it's by design. Yours is a +2, correct?

[spyzee]

It certainly is but now has electric pop ups, amongst all the other frowned upon goodies:)

[tonyabacus]

Greg
For clarity in your video it looks like the mounting in the fibreglass may be worn, do you have any pictures of the end of the crossbar, or any means of checking the diameter of the bar and mounting hole to verify wear.Perhaps it may require a bush making up of something like Delrin to take up the wear
Tony

[gjz30075]

No pictures of the end of the crossbar, unfortunately. That is what I'm requesting. The headlight pod
pivots on its own nicely so I think the bobbin and surrounding 'glass is ok. But your idea of a bushing
is what I'm thinking of. Thanks.

[tonyabacus]

Hello Greg
It sounds as if you may have to remove the crossbar to get a look at the ends which will allow you to see better what is going on and also measure both shaft and hole. I don't have a diagram of the components used with this assembly, but one would think there has to be some sort of bush in the fibreglass to prevent excessive wear as the shaft turns.

Do you have access to the relevant factory Parts Manual to see if it gives any clues, if not I am sure someone on the Forum may have access and can send a picture.

Keep us in the loop as to what you find
Tony

[tonyabacus]

Craig
An add on to my previous mail.

Looking at my Elan S4 parts list manual, it shows the Federal system and states there are 4 x Anti rattle joints that appear to be fitted where the cross shaft goes into the fibreglass, the picture is not very clear, but the part number is given as 036 B 6154. Perhaps you can talk with either Dave Bean or RD about such bushes, although the part number may be slightly different for a +2
Tony

[gjz30075]

Hmm, interesting. Thanks Tony. I'll check out the parts manual again.

[pharriso]

Tony ( & Greg), the parts you are talking about are the 2 short threaded rods & 4 ball joints that move the headlights up/down:

I am hoping to be able to take a look at my headlight mechanism this weekend & give some feedback.

[gjz30075]

Gentlemen, the play I have is at the red circled portion of the crossbar. What's not shown in the
picture is the 1/4 x 20 bolt that the pod pivots on and, I think, goes into the crossbar. It gets
threaded from inside the headlight pod (with the light and associated hardware removed), goes
through a bobbin the body and into the crossbar ( I think). It's probably time to dismantle
the whole bugger to see what's up.

The issue is this: The sloppiness is not a problem with the stock vacuum system. The big
spring just keeps on pushing until the slop is gone, on the upside. Conversely, the vacuum keeps on sucking
until all the slop is gone, on the downside.

I recently discovered my headlights will only stay down for a few hours (after the engine is shut off) so
my diagostics led me to the cannister.
1 - new cannister - no change
2. 3 new vacuum valves - no change
3. The switch and its hoses are out of the equation because I now have the cannister going
straight to the frame member reservoir - no change.

4. new soft hoses, new hard hoses, new 'T' fitting at the frame - no change
5. The switch and its hoses are out of the equation because I now have the cannister going
straight to the frame member reservoir - no change.
6. The frame reservoir holds 15 Hg for 20 hours.

So, I reluctantly went electric with the linear actuator. It has a fixed stroke so it can only take up
the sloppiness in one direction. It all works ok now, and if I can take out this sloppinesss, the
pods will fit better both up and down

I plan to make a smoke machine to try to detect the leak..

[ericbushby]

Hi Greg,
You don`t seem to mention the one way valve in the pipe from the manifold, but now you have changed to an electro mechanical system I don`t suppose it matters now.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[gjz30075]

Hi Eric, yes, I tried three one way valves, one disc type and two cylindrical with the spring loaded
ball inside. I even clamped off the hose but to no avail. I plan on taking the crossbar out
later this year and I'll post any progress.