Lotus Elan

Clutch master push rod clevis pin installation

PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sat Dec 09, 2023 3:56 pm

There are many difficult jobs on our cars, even though they look like they shouldn't be. Here's one I've
been struggling with for hours. Replacing the clevis pin in the pushrod for the clutch. It's always fairly
easy to remove but I can never find the same path going in. The pin is a bit
too long to fit between the steering column and pushrod and I have the pin's head shaved and shortened
overall and am still struggling to get it in. I can't seem to get access from the other side, either. Any Elan I've worked on has this issue. Any tricks I should
know about to get this pin in?
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PostPost by: webbslinger » Sun Dec 10, 2023 3:48 am

Someone should commiserate with you, it is a fussy job and you nailed it in your second to last sentence: "Any Elan I've worked on has this issue."
I went through this 5 or 6 times this spring. Getting the car at the right height is very helpful. It is difficult trying to support your upper body and still have 2 hands to get in there through the confines of the door and footwell. I don't have a lift, but I think getting it on a lift so you could be standing would be very helpful. If not, try a bunch of pillows to support yourself if you're doing it on jack stands. Other than that patience, and try and try again. You can do it, good luck.
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PostPost by: GLB » Sun Dec 10, 2023 4:14 am

Yes a very fussy job in a tight space. I would recommend some sort of retaining snap clip instead of the cotter pin. Hard to fold over on a moving target and hard to get off the next time. Gary
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PostPost by: mbell » Sun Dec 10, 2023 8:49 am

Never done it as a plus two owner but I'd use R clip on the clevis to make it easier to fit. It's also consider putting a good chamfer on the clevis pin to help it go in.

Could also drill a small hole in the center so you could put the clevis pin on a 90 degree pick tool which might make it possible to help keep your hand out if the tight area.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Dec 10, 2023 1:39 pm

Having done it 3x this year, well, err, 1st to diagnose and was going to use a rebuild kit but the rod was too corroded so ordered a Wilwood replacement of course the flairs are different. So after ordering a fitting all is golden.

I found the right combination of long reach needle nose pliers to insert the pin, a wedge of wood to hold it, and probably the cotter pin is okay as, if you line up the hole so you can line it up before wedging the wood.

2 arms work better, and now with my rotator cuff being strained, glad this is behind me :cry:

I think the worst part of the job is the upper & lower bolts and nuts. Drove me nuts. I like my air or electric ratchets but you really want 2 people (I need a shop robot for just such a job, and not a A.I. I want a dumb one). I was able to wedge a wrench which can take many attempts.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sun Dec 10, 2023 2:59 pm

Success! I made a 'phony' clevis pin (pictured) with a good chamfer (thanks mbell) and very short so
I was able to insert it with my fingers. I then pushed the clutch pedal to the floor with my 'free' hand
and was able to insert the real clevis pin, held with small vice grips because it now cleared the
steering column. I made sure the phony clevis pin was pushed in far enough so the real clevis
pin was able to find the hole to push out the phony.

The key is getting the holes in the clevis aligned with the hole in the clutch pedal 'lug' and the phony
clevis pin made it easy. A total of 5 minutes for the whole job.

Thanks to all for the responses.
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