Elan Bumper chrome strip replacement - Part 1 of 2
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Hi All
The chrome strip between bumper and body on my Sprint had started to go all milky and hazy, along with a severe stone chip, so I thought I’d try and change it. Got a replacement from SJ Sportscars - I ordered 2 in case I screwed it up, and given that postage costs as much as the part, it was a no-brainer.
This is the before look (pic 1)
I had read Sue Millers’ advice on using body filler, and was hoping to avoid using the corner screws. Anyway, here’s how it was done:
Step 1: check if the side screws actually do anything…the answer was oh yes. So took these out.
(Pic 2)
Step 2: Removal of bumper. 1st time I’ve ever had to do this but was aware of a central bolt so took out the grill to get access. Using a mirror I could see the bolt was only a few threads in so removal of that was going to be easy. Getting the chromed side bolts off was harder as the retaining nuts are so hard up against the fibreglass in the wheel arches you can’t use a socket. Used a little penetrating spray just in case. There was insufficient room to wield a spanner, so I jacked the front up and removed the wheels to undo the nuts. Then remove the central bolt and the bumper was gone. I could then see that the strip on my car was not secured by body filler, but by 6 pop rivets.
(Pic 3)
(Pic 4)
(Pic 5)
(Pic 6)
Step 3: Remove the pop rivets and the strip came away. It’s was very brittle.
(Pic 7)
Based on Sue’s instructions I decided to get the shape of the new strip before final fixing therefore:
Step 4: Measure and mark the centre of the strip and mask the paint anyway in case of knocks and scratches
Step 5: Reattach front bumper, which of course meant wheels back off again to get the nuts back on….. you can then see the chasm that needs to be filled.
(Pic 8 )
Step 6: The first part I was worried about, as the strip is pretty stiff. So hair dryer out, low setting, and with the strip on the floor it was slowly heated up and down, back and front for about 10 minutes. Don’t look at the Electric meter whilst you do it. I then placed it in the central gap and stuck down with masking tape as quickly as possible.
(Pic 9)
Step 7: Then more hair dryer action, above, front and below as you massage the strip around the corners. That took a good 7 or 8 minutes per side. Then masked down as well. Leave to cool, cup of tea time.
(Pic 10)
As I’ve now reached my attachment limit, I shall continue this on Part 2 !
The chrome strip between bumper and body on my Sprint had started to go all milky and hazy, along with a severe stone chip, so I thought I’d try and change it. Got a replacement from SJ Sportscars - I ordered 2 in case I screwed it up, and given that postage costs as much as the part, it was a no-brainer.
This is the before look (pic 1)
I had read Sue Millers’ advice on using body filler, and was hoping to avoid using the corner screws. Anyway, here’s how it was done:
Step 1: check if the side screws actually do anything…the answer was oh yes. So took these out.
(Pic 2)
Step 2: Removal of bumper. 1st time I’ve ever had to do this but was aware of a central bolt so took out the grill to get access. Using a mirror I could see the bolt was only a few threads in so removal of that was going to be easy. Getting the chromed side bolts off was harder as the retaining nuts are so hard up against the fibreglass in the wheel arches you can’t use a socket. Used a little penetrating spray just in case. There was insufficient room to wield a spanner, so I jacked the front up and removed the wheels to undo the nuts. Then remove the central bolt and the bumper was gone. I could then see that the strip on my car was not secured by body filler, but by 6 pop rivets.
(Pic 3)
(Pic 4)
(Pic 5)
(Pic 6)
Step 3: Remove the pop rivets and the strip came away. It’s was very brittle.
(Pic 7)
Based on Sue’s instructions I decided to get the shape of the new strip before final fixing therefore:
Step 4: Measure and mark the centre of the strip and mask the paint anyway in case of knocks and scratches
Step 5: Reattach front bumper, which of course meant wheels back off again to get the nuts back on….. you can then see the chasm that needs to be filled.
(Pic 8 )
Step 6: The first part I was worried about, as the strip is pretty stiff. So hair dryer out, low setting, and with the strip on the floor it was slowly heated up and down, back and front for about 10 minutes. Don’t look at the Electric meter whilst you do it. I then placed it in the central gap and stuck down with masking tape as quickly as possible.
(Pic 9)
Step 7: Then more hair dryer action, above, front and below as you massage the strip around the corners. That took a good 7 or 8 minutes per side. Then masked down as well. Leave to cool, cup of tea time.
(Pic 10)
As I’ve now reached my attachment limit, I shall continue this on Part 2 !
Richard
'72 Sprint
'72 Sprint
- richardcox_lotus
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1098
- Joined: 11 Jul 2004
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