Frame Damage - Elan S2

PostPost by: Alpine_Ian » Mon Mar 22, 2004 12:01 am

I just got my frame back from the metal cleaners and found a nice surprise! Looks like it was hit on the right front and repired by the Three Stooges School of Welding! I need to get my hands on a frame measurement chart, but it looks to be at least a 1/2" off based on measurement from the other side. The impact of the crash also caused a crack in the frame on the right side just behind the rear of the engine mount. Looks like the drive shaft blew out at one time too creating a nasty punched out tunnel section.

The good news is that my body man came to inspect the rust damage to the metal door reinforcement frame and says he can fix it no problem. So, I'm no longer too worried about replacing the body shell. All I need to do is get my hands on a RH front suspension tower and I'll be in good shape. Advice anyone?

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PostPost by: rdssdi » Mon Mar 22, 2004 12:11 am

Time for a new chassis. My +2 chassis had what appeared to be very good repairs at the rear suspension mounting points. In addition the steering rack attachment "shelf" was bent. It would have cost more to measure, repair and repaint the original chassis then replacing with a new one. I elected to get a Spyder chassis but if you prefer originality the factory galvanized units are available.
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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Mon Mar 22, 2004 1:21 am

Time for a new chassis is right, big time. I think the 3 Stooges could actually weld much better than that... Putting that frame back into a car, even "repaired properly" (which appears impossible), would be unsafe.
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PostPost by: richboyd » Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:18 am

I concur; a new chassis is in order.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:18 am

Hi Ian
Well, I guess I have to agree with the others that have replied so far. New frame time! I would not drive an Elan let alone take a passenger along. Now is the time to chose new chassis, lotus galvanized, Tony Thompson 26r, and Spyder are the players. They all cost nearly the same so that issue is not on the table. I have had experiance with the Spyder space frame and had no problems (I am a repeat customer),I currently bulding up a galvanized lotus chassis for a friend and have nearly a day into prep work, drilling out all holes so that the correct bolts will pass through, all holes needed to be re-tapped and a die run over all the threaded studs. I have no experiance with Tony Thompson's 26r replacement chassis but have heard from owners that it is a very nice unit.

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PostPost by: waschu2 » Mon Mar 22, 2004 1:12 pm

Hi
I would look for another frame. The other tower will be bad also and it makes no sense to put a bent, patched and dubious frame into a restored car. Kind of like building a new house on a bad foundation. Ask around you may be able to find a good used frame from someone who had updated to a Spyder or Tony Thompson frame.
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PostPost by: Alpine_Ian » Mon Mar 22, 2004 1:25 pm

Since I'm in the USA, I would want to find a frame over here to save on shipping costs... are there any US suppliers?

Thanks for the input guys. A new frame it is! As soon as I locate the one I want I will buy!
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PostPost by: Unibrain » Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:15 pm

All the dealers in the US can get you a chassis. Try Dave Bean, JAE, rdent, or your current favorite.

When I went through this same process a couple of years ago, the price from the dealer was a bit more than having a chassis shipped from England. On the other hand, one of the dealers may have a chassis on hand that they purchased when the exchange rate was more favorable. Call around and check.

In either case, buy as much stuff from the same place as you can in order to fill the box. You don't want to be shipping air. Things like suspension bushings, engine parts, wiring harnesses are all small and light compared to the chassis.
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PostPost by: simonknee » Mon Mar 22, 2004 4:18 pm

Jeepers was somebody driving it around in that state.
New frame, try Miles Wilkins for Lotus originals.
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PostPost by: Alpine_Ian » Mon Mar 22, 2004 4:53 pm

It was not drivable when I got it... but I assume someone was driving it like that. It's amazing that I didn't notice the damage until it came back from the dippers. I did see the tunnel hump damage from the drive shaft, but the front had all been hidden by road grime.

I will be ordering all the suspension parts when I get the frame. Once again, thanks for all the input guys. You have once again helped me to stay on track and do the right thing. Looks like I've got some phone calls to make!
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Mon Mar 22, 2004 5:04 pm

There was a report recently that the original chassis is no longer to be made :( so if its an "Original Chassis" you want nows the time to buy while its still available.
Brian.
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PostPost by: Alpine_Ian » Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:36 pm

I just got off the phone with Dave Bean and they have an oem style frame for me. This is my first big purchase for the project and I feel really good about it. Thanks again for the advice everyone.

P.S. Looks like this frame is not the original frame for this car either. The number on the frame is 26 A 701 and my Chassis number on the plate is 26/3985.
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PostPost by: asc » Tue Mar 23, 2004 5:41 pm

Ian I think you will find that 26/3985 is THE chassis number i.e. Lotus26 build number3985. The number on the frame never was related to the chassis number. In the UK the "legal"chassis number is the 26/3985, shown on the body plate. The frame is just classed as a sub frame and you dont change the chassis number when you change the frame. I feel sure this will really interest you! Tony
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Mar 23, 2004 6:30 pm

Tony,
I have an S2 chassis no. 26/3944 (on the plate) this number is also stamped on the frame/chassis, all the early Elans I have seen had the matching numbers on both the plate and the frame/chassis (except were the frame/chassis has been changed.)
The number 26 A 701 is the Lotus part number for a chassis assembly.
Regards Brian.
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PostPost by: asc » Tue Mar 23, 2004 6:42 pm

BRIAN Fair enough, I I have never seen an early chassis that survived! What I was really trying to point out was that after a lot of debate in Club Lotus circles, was that the official chassis number is on the body plate not on the frame. Cheers Tony
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