All the damage to my S4 body revealed!

[djb222]

Finally after around 260 hours of stripping the paint filler and from my Elan S4, here's a video showing pretty much all of the damage around the stripped body of my 68' Elan S4. Pretty much every area needs attention some more than others. Hope you enjoy the video, I'd appreciate feedback and advice as this is my first attempt at gap restoration although I've restored a couple of cars before, Cheers David

https://youtu.be/EgJ8buDTQjc

[Elanman68]

Thanks for that. Am contemplating similar myself on my '68 S4 FHC, don't know if to be encouraged or scared .

What method did you use to strip the old paint?

[nmauduit]

Yes, quite a bit of work, and the preparation takes time,too...

I find it useful to mark the cracks as I find them, even the small ones, as they are sometimes more apparent while removing the upper layers and if forgotten they'll come back at you biting hard. If you manage to keep the gelcoat there is a trick consisting of swiping the body with a rag wet of acetone and looking carefully how it evaporates, this can underline cracks.

[661]

Jeeeez. That car had a tough paper round.
Do you think the 'hard filler' is gel coat someone has applied as a filler?

[djb222]

Hi, I decided to use the Scrooge option of using a scraper, cost me around £25 in wallpaper scrapers, I found them better than the Stanley blade type. The scrapers need sharpening on one edge before use and they need repeated sharpening. Use the wife's spare hair drier to gently soften the paint and carefully remove. I found that I didn't always need to soften the filler layer to remove it. Some came off easily some areas were more reluctant to let go. It takes a little time to refine your technique and if you have time, and oodles of patience and want to save a few bob and see what lurks beneath gradually revealed then it's the method for you. I found the 4" scrapers were to wide and flexed to much 2" are the ones to go for.

I'm not sure there is much gelcoat left on the body, perhaps in a few areas, there are stress cracks around the body which need addressing, thanks for the tip.

Does anyone know what colour the gelcoat is? Grey?

I think the hard light grey filler may be polyester filler but stand to be corrected.

[Gray]

A long way to go, but I've seen worse! I think it has has new front sections, but it does look odd. The very hard filler where the surface is good looks as if it could be a new section with hard gel coat. I have seen cuts in damage areas where the repairer thought it was the right way to do it, but it needs to be ground out and re-fibreglassed. The guy who I learnt a lot from many yeas ago recommended a half inch gap between sections plus tapering of the sections towards the joint to avoid them showing in future. Any doubt it is best to grind out and repair properly. You might want to give it a layer of tissue all over once the basic repairs and shape have been achieved, Option 1 do this and have excellent results on friends cars, although I tend to make sure the mat is very well impregnated by using rollers and don't use tissue, I possibly use a slightly lighter mat. Masking tape to hold repairs in place is useful at times, modern tape does not seem to stick.

I have also found the following tools useful: a long profile gauge, a fein multi-tool with shaped sanding pieces plus small and large belt sanders.

Make sure you wear overalls, lightweight are good, and good filtered face mask and goggles.

Good luck!

[djb222]

Thanks Gray for the advice, I will grind out all the filled/repaired sections to repair them properly. As this is my first attempt I'll tackle a smeller repair first...

[Craven]

Seriously, unless you are up for a personal challenge, I would buy a new body shell. There are so many areas including a very dodgy looking lattice frame around the seat belt anchor point, varying types of filler possibly a mix of epoxy, probably the hard stuff, and polyester, these will have different shrinkage rate when painted, save the heart ache take the astute route.

[661]

Seriously, unless you are up for a personal challenge, I would buy a new body shell. There are so many areas including a very dodgy looking lattice frame around the seat belt anchor point, varying types of filler possibly a mix of epoxy, probably the hard stuff, and polyester, these will have different shrinkage rate when painted, save the heart ache take the astute route.

I did this and now that I'm older and wiser I regret it. I think that is a salvageable shell with an original body number on the spine.
As for gelcoat colour, it's available in many colours. Lotus used light grey exclusively , as best I know, happy to be corrected.
At home at present I'm using black.
Can I suggest getting a copy of Miles Wilkins' 'Fibreglass' book.

[djb222]

I did this and now that I'm older and wiser I regret it. I think that is a salvageable shell with an original body number on the spine.
As for gelcoat colour, it's available in many colours. Lotus used light grey exclusively , as best I know, happy to be corrected.
At home at present I'm using black.
Can I suggest getting a copy of Miles Wilkins' 'Fibreglass' book.

Thanks, that is what my heart is telling me, I don't mind putting the hours in to do it right. As you probably saw there is very little gel coat left. I do have a copy of Miles book which will become my bible I think.
Just a little concerned getting the curve profiles correct where they've been ground out.

[Gray]

It's all possible, but there is an enormous amount of work, I've never finished my current Elan and unlikely to do so due to health, but have done quite a few in the past.
New shells will probably need quite a lot of preparation, depending where they come from, new sections from Lotus used to vary a lot.
The easiest option would be to send it to Option One, or another reputable repairer, at least then you should get the body repaired to a standard that will look good and last for years, it will cost a lot, but probably good value for money when you realise the amount of work involved.

[Elanman68]

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I have the Miles Wilkins book and will be guided by it.