Plus 2 Chassis Resto

[Elan Peter]

Hello all, I am continuing research into my plus 2 restoration. I want to know if it would be better for me to fix the original chassis or to buy a new one. What do we think?
Best regards, P

[Matt Elan]

Hi Peter

If you want originality then repair the chassis - with the price of new one now around ?2,000 it makes sense to repair them. My brother in law (recently retired British Airways / BOAC tin basher and long tern Elan S4 owner) has the jigs, skills and a stock of turrets to refurbish Elan and Plus 2 chassis'. Glenn on this forum recently picked up his early Elan Coupe S3 one which John restored - new turrets, repaired and strengthened engine mounts and a few local fixes. PM me if you are interested - he is cheaper than a new unit and does a great job. He is in North Hampshire

Matt

[Elan Peter]

Thank you Matt. I am not ready to do anything yet as I need to finish the 26R project. Once I get to that stage, I may be interested.
To the person who sent me a PM (sorry, I can't find your name) I cannot reply on PMs so sorry if you get no reply. I may consider your offer once my 26R project is finished.
Best regards, Peter
(I had enclosed a photo of my chassis but it wouldn't send)

[alan.barker]

Why not make the new front Turrets in stainless
Alan

[RichardHawkins]

Peter&Alan,

I have had bad experience with fatigue cracking of stainless in my industrial life. Not the same application, but I suggest you do some research first. I am not saying it can?t be done, or is a bad idea, just be careful.

Richard Hawkins

[Elan Peter]

Thank you Richard. Safety is paramount with a car like this and I wouldn't want it to be compromised by the saving of a few pounds. If it is too risky, fear not, I won't do it.
Best regards and thank you for the concern, Peter

[alan.barker]

There were a few TVR Wedge cars produced with stainless Chassis.
Alan

[MarkDa]

Peter - your photo in the "email" may be too large.

[Matt Elan]

Cheers Peter
There's no rush, I'm happy to have a chat with you about it as and when you can PM people.
regards
Matt

[Elan Peter]

Thank you Matt, that is most understanding. Can I add that the Lotus elan bug is completely your fault
My dad bought me your fantastic elan book for my 14th birthday present and I haven't put it down over the past few years I have had it... It's a great book. I need to get the others that you have done.
I would love to keep its chassis as it is in really good condition apart from some rust holes in a few minor areas.
I have now attached a photo of the chassis.
Best regards, Peter

[Pastapesto]

Hello Peter

I love you enthusiasm for the Elans, keep it up!.....I just wanted to ask a couple of questions about your original chassis......if that's ok?.....it's been 30+ years since I did my chassis change on my old +2 (which I still miss!), but anyway, I'm into Elans now so I'm much more familiar with them these days.......questions: 1, what are those "triangles with holes" that seem to have been added at the rear of the chassis where the rear "y" piece joins the diff holding cross member? 2, are the engine mounting fixings original? I don't remember them looking like that & 3, why is there a "rectangular" hole cut out of the chassis below where the front carb sits? I can see it has been "relived" where the exhaust runs on the passenger side but don't like that "rectangular" cut out much!. I would re-weld that bit back in if it were mine otherwise it may slightly weaken that area!...also, that rack platform looks a bit misshapen......that needs to be in good shape for the rack to be shimmed correctly..... I totally understand wanting to keep it original but if it were mine I think I might just go for a new Gartrac one via Miles Wilkins......that said though, with your enthusiasm you probably want to ke?p it so perhaps use Matt's brother in law.....he sounds a very good idea!

Keep posting updates and pictures of both the Elans when you can please, it keeps my enthusiasm from flagging from time to time......

All the best

Adam

[elanman999]

Hmm, been somewhat modified has that chassis.
Front and rear cross members are not standard.
Cheers
John
Sorry Adam, cross posted with you.

[Pastapesto]

Hi John.....don't be sorry, on a second look I see exactly what you mean.....the front crossmember is rather "modified" and there are a few other strange ugly "mods" going on down that end too!.........the rear crossmember also on second viewing looks much wider than I remember and I was also wondering why I couldn't see the end of the lower part of the chassis - because the wider crossmember is block in the view, that's why of course.

On second thoughts Peter, I would chuck it away and get a much better new one.....that old one is far from original and looks worn out anyway, IMHO, that is! You would need to add quite a few sections to get it back to where it should be which is pretty much halfway to a new one anyway and a long way from being "original"!

Adam

[Elan Peter]

Thank you Adam for you kind messages, I am pretty sure I can answer all of your queries by explaining what the previous previous owner did to the car. It was fitted with an MX-5 Engine, gearbox and diff, thus explaining why it has been butchered so much, unfortunately, they were not with the car when I bought it so I was unable to see how it had been fitted together.
Thank you to John who was also kind enough to point out that my chassis is not as it should be...
I think it would be safer and probably cheaper just to buy a new chassis. I don't intend to gamble on something as important as that when it comes to a cheap restoration. I will therefore, once funds allow, buy myself a nice new (or better) chassis from somewhere. I was thinking of a spider chassis but I'm not sure.
Best regards, Peter

[JonB]

Spider chassis has some benefits. More rigid, better access for maintenance, removable cross brace. I have one on my car and after pulling and replacing diff, engine and gearbox twice (in as many months) I have to say that I would not have got on very well with a chassis that had less access like the Lotus one. You can pull the propshaft out without removing the gearbox (maybe leaving the diff in situ too). Tight but doable just about. Does not tend to rust at the turrets. Powder coated, not galvanised AFAIK, which means you can chip the paint off accidentally, say, when refitting a diff.

On the other hand... ?too rigid? according to Mikes Wilkins. Not sure what he means by that, it was a throwaway comment. Not original, does this matter to you?

How does it compare on price?

Finally ask on here, someone might have a spare chassis.