Lotus Elan

Please help me lift and support the rear of my Elan

PostPost by: MrBonus » Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:57 pm

Yes, I've searched literally every one of the jacking threads and I'm more confused than ever. I don't really want to resort to wood working to change the tires on the rear wheels.

As I understand it, the factory manual says to jack by the sill (which can collapse per this forum) or the rear a-arm by the discs (which can bend per this forum).

Would I be okay to jack it with a single 2x4 cut to fit in the center of the frame just to the right of the exhaust as such?

Image

Then I was thinking of putting the Esco jackstand right on the corner sill of the rear wheel well with a 2x4 extended inward towards where the frame and body are bolted together:

Image

Thoughts?

I can see the errors of prior owners by jacking on the frame near the a-arm mounts and it has dented the metal. I can also see where a 2-post lift was placed too far inboard of the sill and collapsed the body a bit.

Please tell me I don't need to resort to a system of 6" wood cut out to clear the exhaust passage!
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PostPost by: jimj » Sun Jul 15, 2018 4:46 pm

If you`re not going under the car, just removing the wheels, you don`t need axle stands. Just jack it up by the flange on the chassis ahead of the wishbones. You can put an axle stand near to there if you want to leave the car up for a while.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:04 pm

I find it satisfactory to jack it up under the rear end of the sill It seems quite strong there with the rear arch and the inner wing meeting the floor at that point. I use a 6" square 1" thick spreader on top of the jack.
I have also raised it with a piece of 3" x 2" under the chassis rear. It requires two blocks screwed to the top to fit either side of the exhaust pipe to lift the chassis. Also if you get the length just right it can prevent the A frame going to full droop. This was useful when I had Rotoflex joints and also means you do not have to jack it as high.
There is a hazard with this method:-
The car is now supported on three points and with no brakes on the front wheels and if chocks are not used, the jack can fall sideways.
I will not say how I know this, but please be careful. Now I always lift the front first and put the vacuum chamber on axle stands.
If the car is in running order I run the rear wheels up onto ramps before that to give some working space.
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PostPost by: elanner » Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:14 pm

I like this location, with a small piece of wood to spread the load along the length of the short wishbone cross piece and onto the main arms of the A frame.

Originally posted at: lotus-suspension-f42/wheel-brace-and-jack-ratchet-t22440-15.html

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elan_rearjackpoint.jpg
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PostPost by: Andy8421 » Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:21 pm

I have a bend in one of my wishbone cross pieces at exactly this point - I assume from someone trying to jack the car.

The wishbones are relatively thin tubing, and really aren't up to applying side loads.
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PostPost by: elanner » Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:29 pm

Wow - thanks. I've always used a nice piece of oak, so never had a problem. Perhaps it's time to rethink my jacking strategy. :-(

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PostPost by: MrBonus » Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:10 pm

jimj wrote:If you`re not going under the car, just removing the wheels, you don`t need axle stands. Just jack it up by the flange on the chassis ahead of the wishbones. You can put an axle stand near to there if you want to leave the car up for a while.
Jim


When you say the flange, do you mean towards the front of the car (in front of the wishbones) or towards the back of the car behind them?

I'm assuming you can put axle stands right on the chassis where the two bolts meet the body?

Thanks!
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PostPost by: MrBonus » Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:23 pm

Andy8421 wrote:I have a bend in one of my wishbone cross pieces at exactly this point - I assume from someone trying to jack the car.

The wishbones are relatively thin tubing, and really aren't up to applying side loads.


Yeah, reading this forum, people hve said that repeatedly. Then I searched for the cost of a new lower a-arm and was hoping to find a less costly place to elevate the rear. :o
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PostPost by: jimj » Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:13 pm

I meant just ahead, forward, of the rearmost wishbone connection.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:12 pm

I made a U shaped support to go bridge the exhaust under the rear chassis flange dody mount.

dsc_0047_15.jpg and
Rear chassis jacking pad


I didn't aim for it to be this snug a fit and
But being so does make for a secure lift.

When needing to support the rear end with springs compressed and wheels off I use a piece of 2x2 on the outside of the brake disc.
I take a pair to the MoT test to save the wishbone from distortion.
Last edited by MarkDa on Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:15 pm

elanner wrote:I like this location, with a small piece of wood to spread the load along the length of the short wishbone cross piece and onto the main arms of the A frame.

Originally posted at: lotus-suspension-f42/wheel-brace-and-jack-ratchet-t22440-15.html

Nick
Elan_RearJackPoint.jpg


I've done this many times, as long as the piece of wood spans the entire length of the tube. I use
a siccors jack.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:29 pm

With the wheel on the only jack slim enough to get under the short wishbone tube is a scissor jack.
Unless of course you have a spreader beam and super lowline trolley jack.
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:15 am

This is how I do it.

http://images.lotuselan.net/lel/52181/0/img_4298.jpg

That's a very strong piece of hardwood, something like 5x4 inches. I have good sill members, though; they are Spyder ones, quite old but still solid. I can jack the car using the proper in-sill points with no problems.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:05 pm

JonB wrote:This is how I do it.

http://images.lotuselan.net/lel/52181/0/img_4298.jpg

That's a very strong piece of hardwood, something like 5x4 inches. I have good sill members, though; they are Spyder ones, quite old but still solid. I can jack the car using the proper in-sill points with no problems.



I suspect the original poster has a 2 seater not a +2.

I thought you found that, as the cill is curved, attempting to support the whole cill area meant the body bent?
Difficultly opening the doors etc?
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:44 pm

Hmm, yes I think you're right Vince. The shut line on the passenger side door closed a tad, causing the lacquer coat on the roof line to get slightly damaged, so it was obvious the body had flexed a tiny bit. Hoever.. with the sill members in place it is a usable approach and one that your pals in the 'borough use all the time (2 post lifts with spreading plates). Cough cough..

Thanks for reminding me... maybe that's why I have no progress to report: getting it up on stands is such a kerfuffle.
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