Check / rebuild the doors bits.

[vincereynard]

I've had to change the locks because the DPO lost the key following the fitting of central locking.
A bad move as the remote control battery failed when I was out!

So while I was about it it had to be worth checking the other bits.

The control rods are held by 3 guides, the most important of which is the one by the interior handle. The support for said guide is a bit of an excessive example of "added lightness" being a simple thin bent bracket held by a single self tapper. It is also too long and pushes the the rods into a curve. I shortened it by about 1 cm and added a second fixing hole. Before the action of the release handle caused the support to twist and raise the lock rod so it was close to disconnection.

After experimenting with various electric "choc block" connectors, I simply used 3 cable ties to ensure the release rods could not disconnect.

The latch end is OK now the lock has been changed, although the existing rod is too long which prevents the slot being vertical when the key is removed. Is this normal? Perhaps a bit taken straight from a production car?

[JonB]

Hi Vince

I probably have too much wear on mine, but my lock escutcheon turns a full 180 degrees and releases the (very worn) key when it is vertical. I turn it towards the boot to lock, and towards the bonnet to unlock.

The mechanism does not feel crisp at all. It must be very worn.

Cheers
JonB

[alan.barker]

All you need is a Key the same series "FS" or "FT" or whatever to slide into the Lock.
Remove Lock with barrel from car.
Remove Barrel from barrel support case.
You can then remove lock wards and play around with their positions until they match Key.
The Key should slide into the Barrel and leave no wards sticking out.
If there is only 1 ward that sticks out you can file it or remove it so there are only 3 wards in Barrel.
You can do the same for the other door using same Key.
Have fun
Alan

[vincereynard]

Remove Barrel from barrel support case.
You can then remove lock wards and play around with their positions until they match Key.
Alan

That's the bit that stumped me! There seems to be a small bit that limits the rotation and (presimably?) locks the end bit on. Without removing that I couldn't get the barrel out.

[Chancer]

Years since I have had a car lock apart but most cylinder locks need the original key inserted to allow the barrel to be removed.

Having said that you could usually open a door lock and start the car by wiggling another worn FP series key so logically that would also work to remove the barrel.

[vincereynard]

I actually found a FT key that slide in. The problem is the actuating lever is part of the lock. Without releasing that the barrel cannot be withdrawn.

Academic now as I've bought a new pair from Mrs Miller.

Now to devise some method of bending the panel so it fit properly. The standard metal and plastic fixings are poor things.

[alan.barker]

The pair of locks from mrs miller you can adjust so it's the same Key for both sides.
Alan

[vincereynard]

The pair of locks from mrs miller you can adjust so it's the same Key for both sides.
Alan

Both locks have the same key.

Frankly this whole panel is a poor lashup. The hardboard hasn't a hope of bending to fit the door curve. Even if it did the fixings are too weak to hold it in place. Where the separate coverings meet leaves a lump wrapped around the edge and there are a number of exposed screw heads also getting in the way. Also the top rail hooking over the door top makes fitting the top rear fixing almost impossible. (Presumably why it was missing!) Many of the holes are misplaced and do not line up well.

I increased the bendability of the pannel by cutting longitudinal grooves in the panel and filling with mastic.
It is now nice and bendy. Holding the top in place and pushing up the bottom bends it to fit (ish!)

A thin fibreglass (bendy) panel would be much better. Especially if you could drill the holes correctly and use modern nylon fixings.

The lock control rod is also a bit dubious. Its length is critical. Slightly too long and it can prevent the outside button from operating. Too short and the internal handle does not sit flush. It also has a longitudinal twist that can lead to disconnection at the internal handle.

I cut it in half and joined the 2 with a strong "choc block". So it is adjustable for length and twist.

I've just realised I could have cut it at the point where the central locking arm connects. Then use one block to join both - added lightness!

[LaikaTheDog]

I made my new panels in hardboard then I got them wet and put rows of bricks top and bottom to lift the centre off the floor and then put a weight in the middle. This curved my boards permanently.

[vincereynard]

Door panels finished and fitted. Looks good.