Lotus Elan

Packed out lower steering column mount

PostPost by: MarkDa » Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:15 pm

And let's not forget that we have to ensure that we include the horn earth continuity wire whilst juggling parts we can barely reach!
Last edited by MarkDa on Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: JonB » Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:20 pm

Yes, I saw it.

I also see that the speedo cable is too close to the steering column and has been damaged by the bottom bracket (under the radiator). Bet it's incorrectly routed.

Grrrr.. bodgers!
:evil:
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:29 pm

Sounds like it?s the wrong speedo cable - much too long. Mine comes out of the bulkhead and heads straight down near the petrol pump and goes nowhere near the steering column moving parts or uj.

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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Nov 29, 2017 12:45 am

JonB wrote:Yes, I saw it.

I also see that the speedo cable is too close to the steering column and has been damaged by the bottom bracket (under the radiator). Bet it's incorrectly routed.

Grrrr.. bodgers!
:evil:


Are you sure it's the speedo cable Jon? As Simon says it shouldn't be anywhere near the rad. Is it a metal tube with a spiral wrap around? If so, that's the ambient temp gauge sender which runs down the inner wheelarch flange, under the radiator side bracket and into the nose, to be mounted on the front of the air cleaner. If so, be careful with it as they are easily damaged.

The only other cable that comes out of the bulkhead around there is the handbrake one and that goes to a bracket on the chassis next to the oil pump...

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PostPost by: JonB » Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:34 am

Looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, etc... it's not the ambient temperature line, I can see that clipped to the chassis. It's got a cross section of 3/4 od a CM, has a plastic sheath around a spiral sleeve (flexible, in other words), is too fat to be a Bowden cable and enters the bulkhead in line with the speedo.

Yes, I think it is a "too long" speedo cable. Grrr. Bodgers. :evil:

:lol:

The main problem with all this half-arsed bodgery is the effort required to put it right. Without taking the engine out I can't see how to address all these issues neatly - I am just adding layers of better quality bodgery over the existing bodgery.
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PostPost by: JonB » Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:39 am

Now what about these packing washers?
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Nov 29, 2017 10:36 am

Well there is no mention of washers, spacers or anything in the manual :roll: so I guess it's just a case of trial and error. Take a couple out, put a couple in, repeat as necessary! :D
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Wed Nov 29, 2017 10:44 am

Can I just put in a plea for the Bodgers.
These were amateur mechanics working without much information, but with enough enthusiasm to keep working on your car and keep it running.
Without their efforts it would have been neglected and probably scrapped as many were.
The trapped wire is obviously carelessness, but fitting a speedo cable, maybe temporarily, which works is OK by me. The car is back on the road and it can be removed at any time.
He may not have known where to get the correct one, or which car it came from. Who could he ask?
My car was similarly `bodged ` but with the help of Brian Bucklands book, this Forum and the local club.
I have learnt how to put things right.
My list of jobs corrected, changed, or fitted when missing, runs to over sixty items.
I have asked a question on here and had answers from all over the world in a few hours.
20 years ago, the computer was `dial up` and had to make a chargeable phone call to a website. you did not linger on that system.
Keep going and stay as keen as the men who kept your car on the road for you to enjoy now.
Rant over!!
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
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PostPost by: JonB » Wed Nov 29, 2017 12:04 pm

Hi Eric

Yes I remember those dialup days. I used Freeserve to access the Internet and as you say didn't hang about! Free to access was a bit of a lie - it charged you via the phone line. So you learned to get your stuff quickly and dial off ASAP.

I get your point regarding amateur mechanics, but really, some of the things I am dealing with here - there's no excuse. I suppose as long as we are only talking about relatively trivial things, it can all be rectified. As long as nothing safety critical has been bodged!

@Robbie - I thought as much. In order to restore dashboard clearance I may have to add more spacers (to the upper and lower mounts), as changing the angle of the upper column (by removing lower mount spacers) will put stress on the U/J. The only other solution is to raise the steering column and we don't want that... unless its mounting rubbers have perished and the rack has sunk.

Picture here: http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/HA_-_Steering_-_Rack_%2B2

If (and it's a big if) the mounting rubbers (item 28) are missing or collapsed, these spacers would be necessary.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Nov 29, 2017 12:18 pm

I think you mentioned in another post that you didn't have any bump steer, that being the case I would think the rack is sitting ok. Can't hurt to check though.

I would also investigate the dash - see if it is sitting flush to the crash pad mountings incase it's sitting a bit further back than it should be or is warped in some way

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PostPost by: JonB » Wed Nov 29, 2017 12:36 pm

No, no bump steer that I could detect though as I said, there is some vagueness in the steering and definitely some sort of play somewhere in the system. There is a soft thunk when the car is stationary and you turn the wheel back and forwards. I thought (read: "hoped") this might be the rack mounts being loose or having perished rubbers.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Wed Nov 29, 2017 2:42 pm

Quite right Eric.
Given the age of our cars we can't really expect them to be in factory fresh condition when we get them. Let's face it many of them were home built in the first place!
As others have said there are probably more proper parts available now than 20 years ago.
So repairs and fixes that work without compromising safety are welcome ways of keeping cars alive.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Wed Nov 29, 2017 2:51 pm

Jon
Aren't bushes #28 on the rack not the column or have I missed something?
The column should line up with the rack provided it is sat down square to the chassis when top mounting is correct.

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PostPost by: JonB » Wed Nov 29, 2017 3:04 pm

Yes, Mark, but I supposed they were missing or damaged - have not looked at them yet - and if so, the rack would be lower, meaning you'd have to put more packing on the lower steering column mount in order to maintain alignment between the column and U/J.

By the way, the column does have bushes - http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/HB_-_Stee ... olumn_%2B2

..see item 4. I think I need to replace these as well to reduce sideways play in the column.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Wed Nov 29, 2017 5:18 pm

Jon
Rack height is set by the flange at open end and by pinion box (essentially) at column end. Without #28 it'll be rattling about something horrible.
Column bushes are readily available (Triumph parts probably cheaper) but I couldn't get mine out to replace so I'm living with a little play. If yours is very loose then the effort will be rewarded.
They are probably easier to do on a non steering lock column as it can be taken out to allow use of a puller or drift.
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