Lotus Elan

Where does the main earthing cable run after leaving battery

PostPost by: bloodknock » Sat Jul 15, 2017 3:43 pm

Here's another guys,holes sorted thank you.
Where does the main earth cable run after leaving battery negative earth, it must go to the chassis, but how and where?
Thanks
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PostPost by: elanfan1 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 4:00 pm

Tight to the fibreglass behind the carpeting down to the boot floor and fixed via bolt through the holes to the chassis. It's always a source of problems so you might want to consider relocating to a drier and more accessible place like one of the rear uprights.
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Sat Jul 15, 2017 5:56 pm

OK hear what you say - any pictures?
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PostPost by: prezoom » Sat Jul 15, 2017 8:18 pm

On my Plus2, grounded to the rear most chassis mounting bolts. Originally mine went to the bolt closest to the battery. To double my chances, I bridged the cable to both bolts. That and a new number one red battery cable to the solenoid. Lots more strands and a lot more flexible.
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PostPost by: tvacc » Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:11 pm

S2, or S4? Elan or Elan Plus 2
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:13 pm

hi
its a sprint....when in one piece!
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PostPost by: tvacc » Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:18 pm

It runs toward the front of the car about 10 inches then down to the floor along the corner of the boot, then towards the center of the car and attaches to one of the bolts that are at the front of the boot, center of car that go through the chassis.

Whole length of cable cant be more than 3 or 4 feet.

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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:08 pm

Here's a photo taken for other purposes but it shows the earth cable and attachment point.
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dsc_5542-3.jpg and
Earth point near the fuel pump in this picture (end of heavy black cable).
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PostPost by: reb53 » Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:14 am

It, as has been stated, bolts to the remaining threads of a bolt that comes up through the chassis and through a threaded bobbin in the body.
Therein lies the main problem with it.
If that bolt is not done up tight the head of the bolt can be slightly clear of the chassis, and making very poor contact, but you'll be unaware of that.
Because you can't see it...

The answer is to run a drill through the bobbin and remove the threads.
Then it does do up tightly, and you'll have no more problems.
Found this out 40 years ago and welded the bolt head to the chassis as a quick, ( and dirty..), repair.
Real bugger when I came to change the chassis !

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