Help, I can't get out

[vincereynard]

Most of the work they did on my car (which is not a zetec) was mechanical and they did a reasonable job, although they seem very expensive. Regarding the door handles I got it wrong, I remember now that it was a previous restorer that did those, Spyder only changed the locks.

"Reasonable" does not sound very impressed!

Changed the door locks? For which they would have to have disconnected the rods? Did they work before OK?

I'll PM you.

[daverubberduck]

Thanks for the PM Vince.

Kev, I'm going to try your technique using electrical connectors. If I understand correctly, you cut the rod, take a pair of these side by side connectors, slide one end of the rod into one connector, the other end into the other connector, then tighten the screws. This sounds ingenious. I will give it a go and report back.
Dave

[KevJ+2]

Correct Dave,
I cut them at the door lock/handle opening for easier access and adjustment.
They made a difference (and are still working )

ps It's also a good chance to check your plastic/nylon connectors on the rods. I put two small cable ties around the rods where they go into the plastic. It's quite common for them to pop out.

Kev.

[daverubberduck]

I measured the rod diameter at 3.5mm which would seem to be the right diameter for the 60A connectors you gave a link for. I will also do the other thing you mention, sounds like good advice. Thanks Kev.

[JohnP]

Have you considered a convertible conversion....

[richardcox_lotus]

I had similar on my sprint, drivers door, and the rod was connected.

However I noticed there was a kink in it, which meant pulling on the internal handle would not move the lock sufficient distance.

Bending the rod back to its normal shape resolved the issue.

Regards
Richard

[alan.barker]

It's worth fitting new clips available from sjsportscars.
Alan

[bob_rich]

Hi Dave

I had a related problem to yours my 1973 +2S doors. I found that the rods had bent and that when operating the
door release the rods tended to bend even more. To overcome this I cut some stainless steel strengtheners and bound them tightly to the rods with copper wire that I then soldered up. This stopped the bending, and some 4 years + later the mechanism still works OK. There is also a small plastic rod locator about half distance make sure that the rods stay in this a tie wrap may assist in seeing the rods in place.

have attached a picture of the rod strengtheners to show that I mean

Hope this helps best of luck

Bob

[daverubberduck]

Hi Alan, I'm not sure which clips you mean. Do you have a part number from SJS?

Hi Bob, I don't think the rods are bending at that point but I will check. Regarding the rod locator, I seem to have 2 and the rods are in them correctly.
Dave

[vincereynard]

Assuming the rods are OK the problem must be at the handle end or the lock end.

Do both rods operate OK when the interior release / lock are operated?

Pulling on the relevant rod inside the door, does the actual lock release?

Does it help if you pull the door inwards as the release is operated?

[alan.barker]

For the Doors Part: CLIP FOR DOOR ROD CLIPS SJS36U0001.
Have fun fitting them
Alan

[sdenny]

It's also a good chance to check your plastic/nylon connectors on the rods. I put two small cable ties around the rods where they go into the plastic. It's quite common for them to pop out.

I had this happen on Sunday (Elan +2). There seems a design flaw (in my case at least) that there is nothing on the rod that stops the spring before it touches the plastic, and it seems to me that the spring is trying to push the rod out of the block.

Where exactly are you placing the wire tie? I tried, but on the first "open", the tie was pulled off the block rendering it useless. I'd put the "join" of the tie on the back, since i thought that had most room - perhaps that was the issue.

EDIT: Oh, but i can confirm that you can put the rods back in the plastic without taking the door panel off, accessing it via the ashtray hole (assuming you're not too concerned about having skin on your hands.....)

[KevJ+2]

I fixed the cable ties over and around the rods where they go into the block. New blocks would be good, but the little plastic tabs are pretty useless as clips to hold the rods.
Thinking about this, I think the best answer would be to fit a small half tube (cut Biro or similar) long enough to go over the two rods where they go into the block, then attach a cable tie around to secure it, clamping the rods in.
Hope this makes sense. I didn't do this, but in my head, it sounds like a good idea

Kev.

[daverubberduck]

thanks for the part number Alan

[sdenny]

I fixed the cable ties over and around the rods where they go into the block. New blocks would be good, but the little plastic tabs are pretty useless as clips to hold the rods.
Thinking about this, I think the best answer would be to fit a small half tube (cut Biro or similar) long enough to go over the two rods where they go into the block, then attach a cable tie around to secure it, clamping the rods in.
Hope this makes sense. I didn't do this, but in my head, it sounds like a good idea

Kev.

Yes - makes perfect sense. I actually drilled a hole in the block (mine looked new anyway - it's a recent restoration and new to me) from "flat to flat" to pass the tie through as i was worried the tie would just slip off, but like i say, it pulled it off the rod anyway.

Extending your "design" further, how about making up a block in aluminium, with a "lid" held down by a small bolt?

I have some sailor's "whipping yarn" - it's about .5mm waxed "thread" for sewing sails. My next attempt will be to bind the rod to the plastic using the hole i put in as an anchor. Then tap to protect the thread from snagging.

As i said, at least i managed to do it with the trim on