window lift mech

[LadasE]

Hi
can anyone please tell me how the window lift mech mounts to the door,
does it mount on 4 spacers, if so how thick are they ?
cheers

[rdssdi]

try this.

Bob

[rdssdi]

This will show one spacer. I do not have dimensions available.

Bob

[LadasE]

Hi bob
I have one spacer of 1/2" in my box of parts
cheers Jack

[stugilmour]

Just replaced my left hand door motor today. Will post additional info & pic's in Jon's thread below.

elan-plus-f13/fitting-window-motor-assemblies-t24949.html

Jack, there are two spacers used per door. They are located in the two rear bolts that mount the mounting plate to the inside door skin as shown in Bob's pic. Both spacers are the same size. The spacer has a hole appropriate for a 1/4" hex head bolt. The outside diameter of the spacer is 5/8", and the length is 1/2". The associated mounting bolts are 1/4" NF x 1 1/2" long, and thread into captive nuts on the mounting plate. The fasteners include a 1" outside diameter x 1/4" ID flat washer and an 'inside star' lock washer, both located on the outside of the door skin.

The motor fastening system also includes two thin spacing washers. I believe these go in the 1/4" NF x 5/8" long hex bolts that fasten the motor to the mounting plates, but not sure which of the bolts; they fell out of place when I was doing the job this time. My motor works OK so these are going in the box for future reference.

HTH

[LadasE]

Hi
just refitted mech with the two spacers in the positions you stated and all works well
many thanks Jack

[stugilmour]

Glad to help Jack. I added some info to the other thread including replacement motor p/n's for future reference and clarification of the three only 1/64" thick spacer washers on the motor mounting boss's.

A question if I may. Did you have the whole assembly including the lifting arm and regulator gear out of the door? Curious how the lifting arm attach's to the base of the window glass as I can't recall from when I did my RHS motor during re-build. I noticed it can be displaced fore and aft when mounting plates are freed from the inside door skin, so assume there are rollers up in there?

[mikealdren]

Following this and other threads at the moment to refit my doors.. My parts bin has only one motor mounting spacer so I'm making up some more from round, aluminium bar cut to length and drilled.

The part I have is actually a bit longer than 1/2", it's 13.8mm (sorry, I have a metric micrometer!). I suspect it's not too critical when fitting to bobbins in a fibreglass door! It's 5/8" (15.9mm) diameter. and the hole is 9/32" (7.1mm) id, mine will be 7mm!

As I noted on the other thread, the screws mounting the motor to the mechanism are 1/4 UNC not UNF. The motors have raised locating mounts to fit accurately into the mechanism. The mounts sit fairly flush with the mechanism so I suspect the thin washers may sit round these so the bolts can be tightened. Difficult to be sure since they are not in the parts manual!

[Bud English]

I noticed it can be displaced fore and aft when mounting plates are freed from the inside door skin, so assume there are rollers up in there?

...or in the case of my car, oblong pieces of nylon with a flat on one side pretending to be rollers. That's what happens when the original grease hardens up to almost the same hardness as the nylon. They are riveted to the arm and on my to-do list when the time comes to put the doors back together.

[mikealdren]

I feel your pain Bud, I've just restored my wiper motor and mechanisms and the grease had set solid in places.

[h20hamelan]

One item I can not find much/any information on is -limit stall points-

Only comment is from Stu
"As an adder, I found with the windows working so quickly that 15 amp fuses were required on the power circuit to the motors. 10 amp fuses tended to blow at the limit stall points and I wouldn't switch them off quickly enough. I used 25 amp thin wall cable, so the circuit is properly protected. Also used relays to protect the weak original dash switches."

From
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=24949&start=

"I wouldn't switch them off quickly enough"

anyone care to comment on what happens if you do not switch them off quickly enough?

[The Veg]

While you're in there, run new earths straight from the motor to the chassis and use a heavy-gauge wire. This improved the performance of my windows more dramatically than anything including cleaning the (filthy) switch-contacts and installing rebuilt motors.

[mikealdren]

Thanks, yes I'm looking at using relays as advised to reduce the loading on the switch too.

Does anyone know how the motors are limited at the ends of their travel, is it simply a matter of releasing the switch or is there some sort of travel or load limit switch

[StressCraxx]

Thanks, yes I'm looking at using relays as advised to reduce the loading on the switch too.

Does anyone know how the motors are limited at the ends of their travel, is it simply a matter of releasing the switch or is there some sort of travel or load limit switch

Only the finest engineering simplification and added lightness practice. The motor stalls upon the window reaching its upper or lower limit. Almost all electric windows work this way, no matter the manufacturer.

[mikealdren]

Does this risk it burning itself out if you hold it there?