More original paint (Components Colours) And Camera setup!

[garyeanderson]

Yes we have had this one before but seeing I had a disk crash and lost 25 % of the unknown, I figured that I'd post some of what is left. Backup your files (and verify that you have them all and they are GOOD), I didn't and lost.

I got some original cast iron parts and a decent chassis. Granted this is tainted by the camera - computer - monitor but it gives you an idea of what I have found.

67 gearbox from 45/7334. The tag on the box reads "7 E 26" or 7th of May 1967, the Elan was invoiced 24 July 1967. lots of surface rust but some colour on most of the box.

The ford differential is installed in 26/4997 and has not been out before.

This is a early 1972 sprint chassis, it was coated with the black bitumen undercoat and was in good shape except for the where the saddle blanket was and the plugged up weep holes that rotted the front turrets which lead to me getting it.

When was the last time you cleared the weep holes in the front chassis turrets?

These are just some of the possible colours, I think the Chassis is pretty consistent as far as I can tell, the others may change with the year, depending what Ford was suppling at that time. Anyone else have any that are handy?

Gary

[ardee_selby]

Ford Green on transmissions...similar to:

http://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/en/par ... artID=1624
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/images ... e6010m.jpg

[garyeanderson]

Ford Grey? Original block from 26/4997

[Mazzini]

Thanks P-A. I agree with your colour findings, though I'm sure a few wont

[ardee_selby]

"Granted this is tainted by the camera.."

I nearly always forget to adjust white balance for different types of lighting (and being lazy just leave it on "Auto"). I must try harder as, even on my cheapo camera, it does make quite a difference to colo(u)r rendition...

[Steve G]

"Granted this is tainted by the camera.."

I nearly always forget to adjust white balance for different types of lighting (and being lazy just leave it on "Auto"). I must try harder as, even on my cheapo camera, it does make quite a difference to colo(u)r rendition...

WB is a pain and even using the camera presets (Cloudy/Tungsten etc.) it can be way out, always shoot in RAW then you can worry about it later, the files are huge but 16GB memory cards are pennies now and 1TB external hard drives are about ?40!

[DeanG]

The transmission green looks very similar to what I see on my 67 SE FHC

[69S4]

WB is a pain and even using the camera presets (Cloudy/Tungsten etc.) it can be way out, always shoot in RAW then you can worry about it later, the files are huge but 16GB memory cards are pennies now and 1TB external hard drives are about ?40!

Welcome to my daily world! Even shooting in RAW it helps to be somewhere close to the correct WB before you start as the electronics have their limits. For stuff like P-A's blocks you really need a colo(u)r standard included in the picture otherwise there's nothing to anchor the WB to. Ideally it would be a set of calibrated colour squares something like this http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000ALKEJ/drycreekphoto-20/ but even a sheet of white writing paper would be better than nothing.

Having got a image file from the camera you need to make sure what you're seeing on the screen is the same as what the camera captured - so the screen needs to be calibrated. I don't think I've ever seen a computer screen out of the box that was even close. Windows and Mac OSs come with simple DIY bits of software to improve things a bit but tbh they're not much use. Calibration hardware (like this - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Spyder-3-Pro-PC-Mac/dp/B0037258L4) reads colour patches on the screen, compares them with internal reference values and then rejigs the screen settings so they match. That's the point at which you can hold your block up against the screen and see whether the paint colour matches P-A's originals!

[Emma-Knight]

Nice shots. Helps painting it right!

Anna (needs to paint alotta stuff but is too lazy )