Refitting the bodyshell

[rodlittle]

Is there any reason why I cant fit the engine to the chassis and then drop the bodyshell over them both rather than trying to fit the engine after fitting the body ? I cant see any pitfalls but maybe someone knows better
cheers
rod

[gjz30075]

To make it work, carbs need to be off and the four rear most carb mounting studs removed. Also, the heater valve needs to be off. After the body is on, the engine will need to be lifted a bit on the exhaust side to reinstall the heater valve. I'm sure I'm missing something so let the experts chime in.

Greg Z

[oldelanman]

Hi Rod,
Greg just beat me to it. Those are the two things that I recall too, can't think of any other issues I had doing it that way. Certainly is easier fitting the engine and gearbox into the chassis before the body goes on.
Regards,

[crannyr]

If yours is a new chassis it will need to be indexed to the existing bolt holes in the body. This involves trial fit of the body to mark the new hole locations in the chassis. This is done much easier without the engine. After that is done and the holes drilled a final fit can be done with the engine and drive train in place.

Good luck

[oldelanman]

If yours is a new chassis it will need to be indexed to the existing bolt holes in the body. This involves trial fit of the body to mark the new hole locations in the chassis. This is done much easier without the engine. After that is done and the holes drilled a final fit can be done with the engine and drive train in place.

Good luck

Certainly access is easier but if the engine is not fitted when you mark the chassis for drilling check that the bonnet is going clear the rocker cover. You may find the body needs to be lifted a bit.

Regards,

[garyeanderson]

To add some more to these excellent posts.

If the body is fitted to a new chassis, its best done as stripped as possible, (just back or better still before painting), fit body on chassis, mark hole locations. remove chassis, and then drill and tap.

If refitting the old chassis with engine installed like Greg has said, have most everything installed and tested if it's at all possible as far as the dash/crashpad (cables, wires, hoses, etc) area and the engine bay, nice to have the headlamp buckets and all of its associated parts final assembled as it just easier. Basically you are joining two nearly finished sub assemblies.

I guess this topic has never been really addressed in depth as to the total procedure for a body off strip, prep, paint, and re-assembly. Lots of things like door alignment and pedal assembly removal to retain factory alignment can be addressed. When does the windscreen frame go on a roadster and what about the windscreen? I like to install the windscreen frame on a roadster pretty early after painting but the windscreen itself and the job of putting the doors on the body are nearly the last items Then there are the on and on got-cha's of getting it apart without ruining the part. This kind of document probably won't happen as its a lot of work to do right, the factory manual does a nice job of a frame change but is pretty literal.

Any volunteers?

Where would it go when it was done so that folks would see and use it?

This may a good possibility for a real Elan topic?

[alan.barker]

most important. if you fit the engine and gearbox to the chassis before fitting body DO NOT FORGET TO FIT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLDS.
fit them of course with studs, spring washers and BRASS NUTS.
Alan b

[billwill]

I did mine back in 1978, so I've forgotten the details. It is quite possible that I did it with the engine in, but the cylinder head off.

I know that the way I did it was to put the body on lowish trestles on beams along the door sills or more likely at the extreme front and back of the body, then minus the wheels I rolled the chassis underneath on low rollers such as two wheeled trolley jacks and then instead of lowering the body onto the chassis I jacked the chassis into the body.

This way I was able to do all this on my own.

[rodlittle]

Thanks for your suggestions everyone, I've already matched the body up to the chassis and drilled and tapped the various holes so it seems as if there is no reason why I shouldn't go ahead and fit the engine first
cheers
rod

[rdssdi]

I fit my Elan +2 body on a new spyder chassis with the engine sans carbs installed. I had the entire driveline and exhaust manifolds attached.

It is a good idea beside the ease of engine and driveline installation as the front top of the valve cover can hit the +2 bonnet. To avoid this the front of the body must be shimmed to provide the proper clearance. I do not know if this is the same for an Elan. Possibly another person can provide you with that answer.

anyway it is a good idea to check all clearances before drilling the new chassis.

Bob

[lotocone]

To make it work, carbs need to be off and the four rear most carb mounting studs removed. Also, the heater valve needs to be off. After the body is on, the engine will need to be lifted a bit on the exhaust side to reinstall the heater valve. I'm sure I'm missing something so let the experts chime in.

Greg Z

I basically agree with Greg. Just looked at some old pictures of my engine in the chassis before the we put the body back on. The heater valve is off. The carb mounting studs are all on. I don't think I removed the studs, but you might want to do so, just in case.

Good luck with your project.

[elansprint71]

Thanks for your suggestions everyone, I've already matched the body up to the chassis and drilled and tapped the various holes so it seems as if there is no reason why I shouldn't go ahead and fit the engine first
cheers
rod

Well you are already beyond the point of no return. I hope that the cam cover and the radiator do clear the bonnet. I measured mine up before removing the old chassis, so that I knew where the body had to be in relation to the cam cover. I had to put 8mm packing between the body and the new chassis at the front, tapering down to zero at the rear. Glad I had not done any drilling when I discovered that!
Also worth checking that the body is centralised with the chassis at the rear, mine had maybe 15mm side to side play, more than enough to make the tryes catch on the wheel-arch.

Good luck.

[rodlittle]

Yes I certainly need luck, every time I go to assemble something I find part of it is missing or wrong !
by the way the radiator height is not affected by packing the body, as the bottom of it sits on the body, so top and bottom will move together with packing As to the cam cover I shall await the moment of truth with interest
cheers
rod

[stugilmour]

Good luck with the project Rod. With my Plus 2 body install I ended up with a minor cam cover interference issue. Was resolved by minor modification of the engine mount holes as per recommendations on the list. This may be different on the two seater, but something to consider if you find things a bit tight.