Boot/cockpit board
19 posts
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Hi Folk's,
I am trying to get my S3 DHC finished and am struggling with making the board between the boot and the cockpit, my original is all but destroyed although I did manage to make a template which I used to cut out a board made from "3.2mm masonite" this is thicker than the original tar cardboard product and hence very hard to get into shape properly.
The board seems to need to curve around and fit either on top of or under the board that fit along the side of the car and cover the sill area, rear of the door etc, I would really like to know how this fits and if it really needs to be so curved, I was hoping that someone might have a photo of how the boards fit without carpet glued on.
I do not recall seeing any of the usual parts suppliers selling this and even if they did I expect that the cost to freight to Australia would be prohibitive.
Any help will be most welcome.
Tonyw
I am trying to get my S3 DHC finished and am struggling with making the board between the boot and the cockpit, my original is all but destroyed although I did manage to make a template which I used to cut out a board made from "3.2mm masonite" this is thicker than the original tar cardboard product and hence very hard to get into shape properly.
The board seems to need to curve around and fit either on top of or under the board that fit along the side of the car and cover the sill area, rear of the door etc, I would really like to know how this fits and if it really needs to be so curved, I was hoping that someone might have a photo of how the boards fit without carpet glued on.
I do not recall seeing any of the usual parts suppliers selling this and even if they did I expect that the cost to freight to Australia would be prohibitive.
Any help will be most welcome.
Tonyw
Second childhood? no just an extension of my first.
- Tonyw
- Third Gear
- Posts: 348
- Joined: 23 Sep 2006
Tony,
I just ran into the same problem with another car I am restoring. The original door panels were much thinner than any available material I could find. As the original panels had a bulge in them to get around part of the window winding mechanism, the thicker material would not conform. Wound up clamping the thicker material to a flat surface and using long strips of very course sandpaper, 36 grit, glued to a board, and sanded the panels down to the original thickness. That and a little water, and clamping the newly formed panels over a lump simulating the bulge, and all was good.
Rob Walker
26-4889
I just ran into the same problem with another car I am restoring. The original door panels were much thinner than any available material I could find. As the original panels had a bulge in them to get around part of the window winding mechanism, the thicker material would not conform. Wound up clamping the thicker material to a flat surface and using long strips of very course sandpaper, 36 grit, glued to a board, and sanded the panels down to the original thickness. That and a little water, and clamping the newly formed panels over a lump simulating the bulge, and all was good.
Rob Walker
26-4889
Rob Walker
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
- prezoom
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1176
- Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Tony,
Finished my '68 S4 DHC last year and also had the same problem. Sourcing the original cardboard type panel proved impossible. I also played around with thin masonite, but found it would not take up the multiple curvatures required as it went over the chassis hump and then down behind the seats without cracking. In the end, I used a thin sheet (not sure how thick, perhaps 2 or 3 mm) of clear polycarbonate. It was not expensive and I had the plastics place I bought it from cut it out to match the old piece. Thin polycarbonate sheeting is very flexible but also very strong. Had my doubts as to how the two 90 degree corners (over the chassis hump) would handle the rough treatment, but never looked like cracking. Fitted it in to fine-tune the fit before sticking the carpet to it.
As to fitting. The panels under the door openings should be fitted first (I made new ones of these from thin masonite) with the carpet already attached and I also had the triangular shaped pieces of carpet behind the seats in place (in fact I had all of the carpet fitted as this curved panel is the last piece of the jigsaw puzzle). The curved rear piece is then pushed into place so that the centre section, above the backbone, is hard up against whatever you have that fills the gap between the boot (trunk) and the interior of the car. The top of the panel should fit hard up against, and follow the curve of the shelf/receptacle that the hood folds into. Push it snugly in against the sides (should be resting on carpet that is glued to the rear, vertical section of the large under door trim). Continue pushing the trim in until it rests against the rear wheel arches. I later, after the carpet had been glued to the panel, put two self tappers (one each side) through the trim and into the wheel arch to hold it in position. When gluing the carpet to the rear panel, run it all the way around the sides and finish by gluing at the back. This gives a neat finish to the panel and you don't see the polycarbonate.
Colin.
Finished my '68 S4 DHC last year and also had the same problem. Sourcing the original cardboard type panel proved impossible. I also played around with thin masonite, but found it would not take up the multiple curvatures required as it went over the chassis hump and then down behind the seats without cracking. In the end, I used a thin sheet (not sure how thick, perhaps 2 or 3 mm) of clear polycarbonate. It was not expensive and I had the plastics place I bought it from cut it out to match the old piece. Thin polycarbonate sheeting is very flexible but also very strong. Had my doubts as to how the two 90 degree corners (over the chassis hump) would handle the rough treatment, but never looked like cracking. Fitted it in to fine-tune the fit before sticking the carpet to it.
As to fitting. The panels under the door openings should be fitted first (I made new ones of these from thin masonite) with the carpet already attached and I also had the triangular shaped pieces of carpet behind the seats in place (in fact I had all of the carpet fitted as this curved panel is the last piece of the jigsaw puzzle). The curved rear piece is then pushed into place so that the centre section, above the backbone, is hard up against whatever you have that fills the gap between the boot (trunk) and the interior of the car. The top of the panel should fit hard up against, and follow the curve of the shelf/receptacle that the hood folds into. Push it snugly in against the sides (should be resting on carpet that is glued to the rear, vertical section of the large under door trim). Continue pushing the trim in until it rests against the rear wheel arches. I later, after the carpet had been glued to the panel, put two self tappers (one each side) through the trim and into the wheel arch to hold it in position. When gluing the carpet to the rear panel, run it all the way around the sides and finish by gluing at the back. This gives a neat finish to the panel and you don't see the polycarbonate.
Colin.
Tonyw wrote:Hi Folk's,
I am trying to get my S3 DHC finished and am struggling with making the board between the boot and the cockpit, my original is all but destroyed although I did manage to make a template which I used to cut out a board made from "3.2mm masonite" this is thicker than the original tar cardboard product and hence very hard to get into shape properly.
The board seems to need to curve around and fit either on top of or under the board that fit along the side of the car and cover the sill area, rear of the door etc, I would really like to know how this fits and if it really needs to be so curved, I was hoping that someone might have a photo of how the boards fit without carpet glued on.
I do not recall seeing any of the usual parts suppliers selling this and even if they did I expect that the cost to freight to Australia would be prohibitive.
Any help will be most welcome.
Tonyw
'68 S4 DHC
- fatboyoz
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 631
- Joined: 04 Oct 2003
Any among you have a pic of the original partition without carpet on it? I have so many conflicting reports of its actual shape... and i think mine (which has crumbled to nothing) is not the original. Specifically hoping for partition pic from an Elan 67 s3 DHC... but I would be curious what the partition looks like for any model from 66 on. The Buckband book references the piece as being "straight" and only notched around 2" in the middle for the tunnel. I am likely going to make one out of GRP....but I have a large sheet of impregnated upholstery backer board that is very thin.... and it is certainly an option. It needs to be removable without destroying upholstery, correct? in case of maintance on rear end struts/etc?
Thanks
Gentry
p.s. anyone ever tried using foamed PVC?
https://www.fabricatordjinn.com/sintra- ... -i-use-it/
Thanks
Gentry
p.s. anyone ever tried using foamed PVC?
https://www.fabricatordjinn.com/sintra- ... -i-use-it/
GD
67 s3 dhc
67 s3 dhc
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gentry74 - Second Gear
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 11 Jul 2012
Hi Gentry 74
Here's a couple of photos of the rear cockpit bulkhead. It's a cardboard material, there's not any reinforcing or resin visible.
I presume it's original to my 67, DHC. They may have had a mold that they formed the board around and then let it dry, or, maybe individual to each car. Does anyone know?
Here's a couple of photos of the rear cockpit bulkhead. It's a cardboard material, there's not any reinforcing or resin visible.
I presume it's original to my 67, DHC. They may have had a mold that they formed the board around and then let it dry, or, maybe individual to each car. Does anyone know?
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skyarch - First Gear
- Posts: 40
- Joined: 24 Jan 2019
skyarch wrote:Hi Gentry 74
I presume it's original to my 67, DHC.
interesting. The plot thickens...or... perhaps my joy just evaporated. Yours looks just like mine. Mine is currently held together by the carpet. It wont survive removal...
I was hoping the original piece was simpler...like the one David posted.
DavidP wrote:Hi Gentry,
Hope this picture helps
David - what series/year is your car?
pic of mine as reference:
GD
67 s3 dhc
67 s3 dhc
-
gentry74 - Second Gear
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 11 Jul 2012
pharriso wrote:I added the seat belt & bass speaker holes. Looks more like Skyarch's than DavidPs
Thanks Phil. Looks like it has sharper corners than mine (And skyarch). True? Hard to say with certainty just with that one pic (i refer to the "curve" of the uppermost edge as it transitions from back to sides)
do you have your subwoofer mounted behind that board such that it is invisible behind the carpet from the inside?
GD
67 s3 dhc
67 s3 dhc
-
gentry74 - Second Gear
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 11 Jul 2012
gentry74 wrote:Thanks Phil. Looks like it has sharper corners than mine (And skyarch). True? Hard to say with certainty just with that one pic (i refer to the "curve" of the uppermost edge as it transitions from back to sides)
Yes, very linear compared to both of yours... but it fits well! Bear in mind it's only attached on the top edge & the rest is just bent into shape & hangs there...
gentry74 wrote:do you have your subwoofer mounted behind that board such that it is invisible behind the carpet from the inside?
Yes I do.
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 15 Sep 2010
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