Seems too easy to scratch my car

[alaric]

Hi all. Since I had my car resprayed I've had the impression that it's very easy to scratch right through the paint to the white layer underneath. As I'm still working on the car I'm bound to have the odd slip up and accept that I'll have to touch it all up once finished. I had it sprayed in the original cellulose lagoon blue. How thick should the paint be? I was just wondering if it's just me being a clumsy oaf or whether the car needs an extra coat at some point in the next couple of years - once it's on the road of course. I don't want to go back to the place that did the work.

Sean.

[nebogipfel]

Sean, Are you referring to fine scratches or is the paint flaking in thin lines when you catch it with something?

The reason I ask is I'm wondering if you are getting poor adhesion between the colour and whatever is underneath it because you say you're seeing a white layer.

Cellulose is not the best paint to use anymore, modern chemically dried finishes are far more durable.

If the paint job is fairly recent it may still harden more.

If I have to work on my car I always take the precaution of wrapping the area in lots of old blankets. Even a few layers of newspaper held on with masking tape will protect from the odd spanner slip.

[elanfan1]

Sean,
have you had a lacquer coat put on to finish it off - it might be it needs that to help protect it. Otherwise there are some polishes that claim to chemically bond with the paint to provide some protection.

[nebogipfel]

Sean,
have you had a lacquer coat put on to finish it off - it might be it needs that to help protect it. Otherwise there are some polishes that claim to chemically bond with the paint to provide some protection.

It's not common practice to laquer a cellulose finish. I have done it a few times (basically treating the cellulose as a basecoat when the colour has not been readily available as a basecoat) but if it had been laquered it wouldn't be particularly easy to scratch once cured and wouldn't go through to the primer in the way Sean describes ..... unless the cellulose is not adhering properly.

[alaric]

Hi. Thanks for the replies. The paint isn't flaking off at all - it looks perfect until I scratch it. It just doesn't seem tough enough. Maybe the polish approach. I'm used to the BMW and VW paintwork on my other cars.

Sean.

[nebogipfel]

Hi. Thanks for the replies. The paint isn't flaking off at all - it looks perfect until I scratch it. It just doesn't seem tough enough. Maybe the polish approach. I'm used to the BMW and VW paintwork on my other cars.

Sean.

You're welcome

Yes, factory finishes are very hard, although on lots of todays cars the paint film is thin and easily polished through!

[desprit dan]

Back on paint finishes again! I used cellulose almost exclusively in the 80's, and as previously stated laquering over it wasn't recomended, because of cracking and crazing; one way to get a longer lasting shine/more durable finish, is to add in blending clear to the last couple of coats, strangely it often goes off a bit dull, but when polished will stay that way longer than conventionally applied cellulose.

[nebogipfel]

Back on paint finishes again! I used cellulose almost exclusively in the 80's, and as previously stated laquering over it wasn't recomended, because of cracking and crazing; one way to get a longer lasting shine/more durable finish, is to add in blending clear to the last couple of coats, strangely it often goes off a bit dull, but when polished will stay that way longer than conventionally applied cellulose.

You're absolutley right Dan. Back in the good old days (70's & 80's) I also used cellulose exclusively (good old ICI Belco) and the clear laquers available in those days were dire. Blending clear was sold mainly to help obtain better fade out repairs and even finishes with the old cellulose metallics.

Although not strictly recommended modern 2K laquers are quite happy over celly. You treat the celly as a basecoat spraying just enough for a uniform colour, not to obtain a glossy finish. Allow it to dry fully and then apply the laquer. Myself and colleagues in the trade have done it many times without problem. I have a friend who does classic bikes and most of his petrol tanks are 2K laquered celly.

[alaric]

Thanks for that. Sounds like I have too thin a coat of paint, and that I could cover it with a lacquer for added protection. I just had my beamer part re-sprayed - someone ran into the back of it, so I got them to do the bonnet and front wings and bumper while they were repairing the back end. For ?350 they've done a really nice job. The owners of the place have classic cars - triumphs and minis from the 60s/70s era, so my plan is to take the +2 to them for the MOT and start discussing respray options then - the fibreglass is all good with no cracks so it may be reasonable just to remove the shiny bits, flat down the paint, and let them go to work. Of course the first thing I have to do is get the thing finished and on the road...

All the best.

Sean.

[desprit dan]

Yes, admittedly the laquer at the time was acrylic so I can't coment on 2k,(I have used it for the purpose you mention, but didn't have the car for long enough to see any deterioration) but you would surely have to flat off the existing coat, and in this case run the risk of going through to the primer.

[nebogipfel]

...... but you would surely have to flat off the existing coat, and in this case run the risk of going through to the primer.

No, you treat it just like basecoat. Spray enough for a uniform colour, let it dry well and then laquer it. The laquer adheres well and the finish looks like a normal clear over base.

[desprit dan]

...... but you would surely have to flat off the existing coat, and in this case run the risk of going through to the primer.

No, you treat it just like basecoat. Spray enough for a uniform colour, let it dry well and then laquer it. The laquer adheres well and the finish looks like a normal clear over base.

I was refering to the origin of the thread, i.e the paint already applied to his car is too thin, so presumably that would need flating, i.e keying before laquering, and that may lead to rubbing through on edges, or lower panels that never seem to get enough paint at the best of times.

[nebogipfel]

...... but you would surely have to flat off the existing coat, and in this case run the risk of going through to the primer.

No, you treat it just like basecoat. Spray enough for a uniform colour, let it dry well and then laquer it. The laquer adheres well and the finish looks like a normal clear over base.

I was refering to the origin of the thread, i.e the paint already applied to his car is too thin, so presumably that would need flating, i.e keying before laquering, and that may lead to rubbing through on edges, or lower panels that never seem to get enough paint at the best of times.

Hello Dan, Sorry, I misunderstood. Yes you are right.

I wouldn't do it or recommend doing that at all and if a painter was prepared to do it (you could probably flat with P1200-1500 sufficiently without going through) I doubt very much if He/she would be very happy or offer any sort of guarantee.