Removing The Body Shell From The Frame

PostPost by: Alpine_Ian » Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:18 pm

I've scheduled my Elan in with the paint shop and I'm now beginning the process of getting it ready to go. I found the Exel spread sheet on this site that lists the steps in removing the shell. I don't think I'll run into any problems there, but I am interested in advice on seperating the shell from the frame. What have some of you done in the past and what should I keep in mind to prevent damage? Is this just a matter of brute force and simply lifting it off? What does the bare fibreglass shell weigh?
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PostPost by: Unibrain » Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:44 pm

You will need four people, preferably five, to lift the body, not because it is heavy but because it is cumbersome. Four people lift (by the lifting/jacking points not the wheel wells) and the fifth, you, run around making sure everything has been disconnected. Assume you will have forgotten to disconnect something. You did remember to disconnect all the ground straps even the one on the coil? (That was lesson learned number one)

The body must be lifted straight up or it will bind on the shock mounts. (lesson two)

Mine "stuck" for a moment and then poped free as all the 35 year old goo let go.

If you don't have four friends handy or just want to do it alone, take a look at this<a href='http://www.vistagrande.com/lotus/photo.asp?indx=3' target='_blank'>body lifting rig</a>. I removed the body in a similar fashion and replaced it with the help of a bunch of friends. Doing it with people is a lot easier. I've also heard of using a two post lift.

Have a dolly already built to hold the body so you only need to lift it once.

Good luck
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Nov 04, 2003 7:16 pm

Ian,
I've done this several times but with the aid of a two post lift, it makes it very easy
but this is not always an option and people power is required, no brute force should be nessesary as the body "sits on felt stuck to the chassis" although after 40 years it may "stick"and as Jim said make sure EVERYTHING is disconnected, then CHECK AGAIN!! take note if any spacers are fitted between body/chassis, usually aluminium strips.
Leave the doors on as it makes the body less prone to flexing. If you want to reduce weight take out the windscreen & frame (windshield) and door windows.
You do not have to remove the eng/gearbox first but REMOVE the carbs and heater valve plus anything else that may catch.....speedo cable, earth straps etc.
(to remove heater valve disconnect L/S eng. mount and jack up engine)
Regards Brian.
Brian
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72 Sprint FHC
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PostPost by: Elanman99 » Tue Nov 04, 2003 9:47 pm

A COMPLETELY bare bodyshell is easily liftable by two people. My wife and I pulled off our DHC shell without any problems.

Ian Phillips
68 Elan S4 DHC. Built in a weekend from a kit (just like the advert said)
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Nov 04, 2003 10:11 pm

From the workshop manual:
Quote: "At no time should the body be lifted by the wheel arches, radiator air intake or bumpers"
Brian.
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PostPost by: Alpine_Ian » Tue Nov 04, 2003 11:32 pm

All very good and sound advice. Thanks everyone for all the help. I hope to be ready to have the body off soon. I'll report back when I get there.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed Nov 05, 2003 11:50 am

When I have removed the body on my Elan and Plus 2 I have generally done it in 2 stages and done it on my own.

After disconnecting everything I jack the car using a couple of jacks and axle stands front and rear to slowly remove the complete body with all components from the chassis. Checking as I go to make sure it is coming free without any hang ups.

Once 4 or 5 inches clear of the chassis mounts I fit a 2 x 4 wooden beam across the body inside the engine bay near the fire wall ( having removed the engine first) and a similar beam at the rear in front of the rear suspension towers. I then use 3 cheap cable winches connnected to the rafters in the garage to lift the body clear of the chassis, 1 centre one at the front lifting the middle of the beam in the engine bay and two at the rear lifting from the outside ends of the beam passing across the underneath of the body just in front of the rear towers.

I then can roll the chassis away and drop the body back down on a set of 4 saw horses to hold it a convenient 800 mm of the ground for what I want to do. The reinstallation is just the reverse.

Rohan
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PostPost by: LaikaTheDog » Wed Nov 05, 2003 8:39 pm

I lifted my body using a 'cheap as chips' nylon/plastic hoist !

I measured the body and guessed the weight distribution on my plus two. I figured the pont of balance to be a foot behind the front screen. I mounted a cross beam in my garage about 8ft from the ground. On the beam I mounted the engine hoist, I strpped teh body, but left teh screens in , just in case they added rigidity, but removed/disconnected everything else.

I then got 4 high tensile bolts, some big 2" washers and about 20 foot of chain from the builders yard. I inserted each bolt as far as it would go into the jacking point tubes, pushed on a washer and then the chain which went to all four jack points and met up above the roof at the hoist, I joined them together with an exhaust U bolt. Lifted the body up using the hoist. worked like a dream, put it back on the same way.

single handed operation, I tried it with four people but it just wouldn't budge, the slow application of even pressure using the hoist did the job.

I used the same bolts but added screw-on dolly wheels to move the body around when it was off the chassis
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