Replacing Dashboard on early model +2

[edcrawford]

After Christmas I will be replacing the dash on my +2 (the earliest model). I've been told this can be a nightmare of a job. Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for, any tips etc. I really haven't got a clue where to start so anything will help.
Also the dash I currently have in the car is obviously a homemade job and a complete disaster and is missing a couple of switches that apparently should be on the new one (there are holes on the new one that aren't on the old) can anyone tell me the correct layout for some of these switches. There is a hole on the left hand side of the radio panel, above the interior lamp switch and next to the amp dial, what should go in here? Directly above the steering wheel cutout is a small hole for a lamp, below the lamp for ignition etc, what is this for?
Finally, when I have the dash off I think I'll have a look at the heater. One thing I'm particularly confused by is that whilst I get heat from the window and floor vents I get only cold air from the vents on the dash. Before I do anything rash, should I be able to get heat from these and if so does anyone know what is causing the problem and how to rectify it.
I should add here, I'm very new to the elan and still finding my way around so please keep things simple
Thanks in advance for all your help.

[kenny]

Hiya Ed, I too am new to this rebuilding old Lotus thing as you can see from my "help" posts.....guys on here have been a tremendous help so far.

I am also building a very early +2 1968 car from a box of bits but mostly new stuff.
For the last couple of days (and probably the next couple of months ) I've installed a new wiring loom and am now connecting up the dash, so hopefully on this occasion I may be able to help rather than ask!!!

The hole you mention above Int light next to amp gauge is a cigar lighter. and the light I have above my column is a yellow/orange thing which I think diagram refers to as heated rear screen light.

I thought it would be a complete nightmare for a electrical dimwit like myself but thing are slowly falling into place and it's not that hard really.

Where I am stuck is not having seen the car built I'm stuffed as to where things go back. I.m struggling with my after market relays at present and just can't no matter what I do get lights to work via switch.............someone said to me today is earth strap on...............What earth strap

I also have a load of Lotus switches which I may not now need so may be able to help there too after the break.

It's good to know I'm not on my own, good luck and keep us posted.

Regards,

Kenny

[Jason1]

Hi Ed

I replaced my dash on the +2 (1968) it was not that bad. I removed the heater vents first and then you can get to the rear of each gauge in turn. I removed each gauge one at a time and labelled each wire with masking tape.

Once all the gauges are out you need to remove the rear seat back and then lift out the centre tunnel. When the tunnel is out you can get to the two dash screws at the bottom. I also removed the gear lever to prevent scratching the lovely new dash.

Remove the rest of the screws, release the choke cable, bonnet pull, drop the steering column and any other bits attached. Once you have the screws out you can see what it holding it in. The fiddliest bit was the heater cables.

I had loads of 'extra' wires the the PO had added over the years so I chopped then out and cleaned and remade any connections that were suspect.

It is worth the trouble as the inside of the car looks the nuts now and all the gauges work

I worked on mine over the weekends and I think it took me about 2 or 3 weekends to get the dash out and new one in and all the gauges and lights working properly.

If you need any help just post questions here

cheers

Jason

[bcmc33]

Jason's advice is to be followed to the letter - label each connection and make a sketch of the switches and instruments to where the connections go. Don't think "I'll remember that" because you won't.

Also, now you have the dash out, think seriously about future proofing by adding relays for electric windows and windscreen wipers - its easy with the dash out.

I can't offer any advice on a +2 dash fittings, but if you get the correct new dash from, say Paul Matty, then you will know what holes are to be filled with what - simply by asking PM.

Brian Clarke

[Over Steer]

I have the owner's handbook that came with my '69 +2, with numerical references for both LHD & RHD dashboards, I can post this if it's of any help.

[bcmc33]

Ed,

One thing I forgot to mention - when you have the dash out, replace all the instrument filament bulbs with LEDs.
When you do this you will then realise how poor the 1960s instrument illumination was.

Brian Clarke

[Frank Howard]

I removed each gauge one at a time and labelled each wire with masking tape.

Here's a better (but slightly more expensive) way. Go down to your local hardware store. In the electrical department, you should find number stickers. These usually come in sheets. In other words, there are two ones, two twos, two threes etc. As you are disassembling the dash, you put one on the wire and the corresponding number on the terminal. When it comes time to hooking thing back up, it's just a matter of matching the numbers. Hope this helps.

[kenny]

Brian, the led replacements you mention, I'm doing my dash now. What should I order?
Cheers,
Kenny

[bcmc33]

Kenny,

I bought all my needs from Utraleds (http://www.ultraleds.co.uk), that was recommended in an old thread.
LEDs are relativey expensive, but as they should last a lifetime, I considered them as a one-off buy.
I then went mad, and, with the exception of the headlamps, replaced all the external bulbs + interior with LEDs. LEDs are kinder to the old switches and cables. (That was my excuse, anyway).

The only advice I can give is to get the brightest bulb available for the size, and if you go exterior, get the correct colour bulb. i.e. red for rear/stop lights, amber for indicators and white for reversing.


Brian Clarke

[kenny]

Cheers Brian, will check the link you sent now.

Kenny

[mikealdren]

If you haven't already started and you have a digital camera, take lots of pictures. I'm building a Zetec and there are no instructions for lots of things but photos of some of Andy's work at Spyder are proving invaluable.
Mike.

[M100]

In case anyone else is tempted to go completely down non-filament route, replacing the ignition warning light with an LED is not particularly straightforward (particularly on alternator equipped vehicles) It can be done with a chunk of additional circuitry but my recommendation is give it a miss. Also as far as external lighting is concerned the design of the replacement lamps may mean that the light observed off axis by other motorists may be significantly reduced, in some cases to almost nothing. Good quality lamps - I only use Osram ones now, are cheap and last for years if lamp seals are in good condition and the lamp is fitted with contact grease.

Assuming you are not running the original wiring and it's been replaced in the last couple of decades the lighting wiring on the Elan, with the possible exception of the headlights, is easily capable of meeting all the requirements imposed on a modern vehicle in terms of volt drop and thermal capability.

If I was tempted to do any upgrade to the external lights on an Elan regularly used at night it would be to fit high intensity discharge lights. It both reduces the current in the lighting cables by around 30-40% (55W to 35W typical reduction in power consumption so current is down from 4A to 2.5A per side) and gives around a 2 to 3 times increase in measured light intensity.

[type36lotus]

If you don't have a digital camera, BUY ONE! You don't need a super high resolution, 2 MP will be fine. Then you can take them to your hearts content, check if they are useable BEFORE you disassemble a component. While dismantling some now forgotten component on my Elan I took a whole roll, 36 exposures, of the process only to find out after the dismantling was complete that I had NO FILM in my camera!

[nhhiker]

I am new to group. I am starting to replace my +2 dash. It is a very poor copy of one. It was made with 3 ply 1/2" plywood, and hacked out to put in the thinner cables and switches. I am wondering how thick the stock one were? 3/8, 9mm or thicker 7/16?

thanks

[gerrym]

N Hiker, my dashboard is 10.4mm thick, 7 ply plus veneer

GerryM