S3/ S4 Body Shape

PostPost by: Brian Walton » Mon Feb 07, 2005 10:46 pm

Now this relates to the body shape of the S3 and S4.

My rally elan (6086) body was a mess from top to toe so to retain its originality I restored the entire body bit by bit over the last two years.

My experience with GRP goes back some 30 years so I am rather picky when it comes to the final finish. Dimensions have to be exact and so the use of a spirit level and the works drawing are used in many applications. One of the finest tools is a .5cmX 1.metre strip of acrylic. Works a treat to see the correct lie of a shape.

We all know about the S3 and S4 doors. They are/were wrong (droop) and I have corrected mine (see my article on lotuselan.net).

What I have found out is that the entire front, between the light pods is infact incorrect by over 1cm. It has a dip to the right (looking forward) near the front of the bonnet. Have a close look at page 52 in the Mike Taylor book on the Lotus Elan. They are all like that.

Now this is not going to worry the 99% of souls with their Elans on the road, but I thought I would confirm this fact to the many who are in the "sand down" stage that "things" don't look just perfect at the front.

And yes I have corrected this now by making the right match the left...and I did not just bog it!

I can hear the souls shouting that this is not original!!!

Who cares.........its now correct!

Brian
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PostPost by: marcfuller » Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:31 am

Hi Brian,

I think some of the differences you mention are as a result of the model bucks used to make the body moulds, but after spending some intimate time with two S3's having their original body pieces I have come to the conclusion that much of it as a result of poorly made moulds and aged moulds. Like you I have spent a number of years around fiberglass and the even the making of model bucks and moulds. One of my early surprises was to experience how fiberglass moulds would change shape due to the repeated curing heat and release cycles of part fabrication. From the photos I have seen I think that Lotus did a great job for the period and method, but overused the moulds causing them to increasingly misshapen over time.

For example the doors on my early production S3 (36/5589) fit almost perfectly and have much different trailing edge door contours than my later S3 (36/6025) which demonstrates the typical 3/4 fit. No bodywork has been done to either set of doors or the relative body area on either car. Since these cars left Lotus only about 6 months apart in 1966 they most likely came out of the same set of moulds. Mould degradation also would account for the variations that occur between other unmodified 3/4s. And even the "twist" or dip that you measure across the bonnet. That is why they almost all have the chronic misfits, but to varying degrees.

Any efforts to improve the fit, match and symmetry of the body panels probably makes them closer to what the model makers were ORIGINALLY attempting to have produced from the moulds. And it was the works drawings you mention that the model makers were using to create the bucks.

Plus it makes for a better looking example today!

Regards,
-Marc

p.s. - do you know how can I obtain a copy of the "works drawing " you mention?
-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
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PostPost by: Brian Walton » Tue Feb 08, 2005 9:09 am

Thanks for your comments Marc.

Ref works drawings. In reality it is just a blown up (A1) version of the drawings found in the Workshop manual. Seems to work.

The moulds were left in the fields close to the factory as an easy storage place. 65 and 66 experienced high summer temps and the moulds started to flow.

I have found if you wish for one bit on the body to be correct the rest has to follow. The great thing is that I can turn the entire unit upside down with ease and complete a proper lamination job on the areas not normally bothered with. All that is needed is time, polyester, chop strand and an understanding wife!

Brian
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PostPost by: bvt » Tue Feb 08, 2005 9:53 am

I contemplated cutting one S3 up into individual panels and re mounting it all on a purpose made jig to get everything to fit then re glassing it back together...
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PostPost by: Brian Walton » Thu Feb 10, 2005 8:42 pm

Marc I have a feeling that the entire fault with the front of the car goes back to the bonnet.

I have used it as a anchor point for all the dimensions. This I believe is written about even in the Mile Wilkins book. The bonnet is infact incorrect in both shape and curve in parts.

I will take a paper template this evening to establish the area of problem.

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PostPost by: marcfuller » Thu Feb 10, 2005 9:17 pm

Brian,

Your assumption makes very good sense to me. I am interested in what you discover. Complex shapes to create and then join in a small area. Next week I'll measure out my S3s. I'll look through Wilkins book for this issue, too.

-Marc
-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:05 pm

Are the 26B bodies also afflicted with this ?
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PostPost by: prloz » Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:37 pm

Interesting topic Brian,
Can you please advise how you turn the body shell "upside down
with ease".
Do you have a special jig for this ?
Thanks.
Regards,
Peter.
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PostPost by: Brian Walton » Sun Feb 13, 2005 8:11 pm

Ref: Turning the body.

Use four willing souls and a few bottles of beer.

Now ref problems with the front body shape. I think I have solved the hidded problem.

Here is what I have found.

I set the centre of the body from the centre of the chassis....Spirit level and all that. I scribed the centre points on the bonnet then made a paper template of the exact bonnet shape (done in the lounge whilst watching Top Gear). I used double sided tape and all that. I took the paper template off and folded at the centre line and the result is that the bonnet is near as damn it perfect in shape. Now I put the bonnet on a flat surface and measured all points. Everything adds up to 98% perfect. So the problem is not the bonnet. I placed the bonnet back in place on the car and notice that the front right edge dips. Where the bonnet sits in the body I place a half inch thick layer of foam (just to lift it up a wee bit). I replace the bonnet and bingo it is now perfect! no droop to the right front. So the problem is with the placement of the front bonnet in its right hand front. When the placement groove on right side is built up all looks perfect. But remember you also have to build up the body about 1cm in that region. Don't just bog it...it will drop out! It is quite a job!
;)
So in conclusion this fix is not for the soul who is already enjoying his or her Elan on the road. Its for the sod who wishes for things to be just perfect.

Brian
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