Sprint door seals / weatherstrip.
54 posts
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Hi All,
Finally got around to measuring some samples from mcmaster.com.
Original 2 bulb style.
Mcmaster p/n 12335A71 Reasonable?
Mcmaster p/n 12335A18 (too thick methinks)
Mcmaster p/n 125335A56 Too short on the flange depth?
Finally got around to measuring some samples from mcmaster.com.
Original 2 bulb style.
Mcmaster p/n 12335A71 Reasonable?
Mcmaster p/n 12335A18 (too thick methinks)
Mcmaster p/n 125335A56 Too short on the flange depth?
Scott
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
- snowyelan
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For me the Flap Seal was only on the Elan.
On the Plus Two it was a normal bulb type Seal.
Alan
On the Plus Two it was a normal bulb type Seal.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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Andiken, was just looking back at the thread and I don’t think I posted any kind of update since actually installing the seals I got from MacGregor British Car Parts in Dundas, Canada Anyway, short answer is for a Plus 2 I would recommend just ordering from MacGregor and move on. Spendy but they work. Note he doesn’t have an endless supply right now, and not sure if and when he can get more.
http://macgregorukcarparts.com/ordering-info/
I had previously used bulb seals from the UK, bulb seals from RD Enterprises in the US, and finally Elan FHC flap seals from RD Enterprises in the US. None of them fit very well. If I adjusted to get reasonably fitting doors the inside door pull would not work.
Martin supplied his recommended Plus 2 bulb seals. The bulb material was considerably softer than the UK or RD versions, although dimensionally pretty close. Not sure if it was clear in some of the above posts, but he asked us not to post dimensional pictures of his seals, which given how helpful he is and the niche nature of the market I would like to respect.
He also included two short samples of secondary seals, one flap (presumably Elan FHC material) and one bulb (same as he provided in full length for my car) IIRC. Not sure why he didn’t just include one of them in the correct length, maybe it was dealers choice sort of deal. Anyway, I just used some of my now surplus flap seal for the secondary seal. Going from memory, but I think cost was about $250 CDN.
I found the secondary seal a very confusing topic. It is not shown in the parts manual, and I have seen several versions posted over the years. At any rate, Martin said I needed ~23 inches of material for the secondary seals, but it was not clear if that was per side or for both sides. Given the cost of his seal material I made do with what I had. I found an approximate 23” piece seemed to nicely extend from the fixed quarter window frame to the base of the door, so that is what I used.
My doors now fit better. A car wash test was mixed, as it was prior to installing the secondary seals. I got Niagara Falls quantities of water from the top if the doors by the hinges. I have not been able to to get to the car wash after adding the secondary seals, but I think they will do the trick as without them in place there is a giant opening at the top of the doors (ahead of the side window frames). The rest of the door water sealed well, although I may gave a bit of wind noise driver’s side.
Have added a few pictures below.
HTH
Stu in Canada
http://macgregorukcarparts.com/ordering-info/
I had previously used bulb seals from the UK, bulb seals from RD Enterprises in the US, and finally Elan FHC flap seals from RD Enterprises in the US. None of them fit very well. If I adjusted to get reasonably fitting doors the inside door pull would not work.
Martin supplied his recommended Plus 2 bulb seals. The bulb material was considerably softer than the UK or RD versions, although dimensionally pretty close. Not sure if it was clear in some of the above posts, but he asked us not to post dimensional pictures of his seals, which given how helpful he is and the niche nature of the market I would like to respect.
He also included two short samples of secondary seals, one flap (presumably Elan FHC material) and one bulb (same as he provided in full length for my car) IIRC. Not sure why he didn’t just include one of them in the correct length, maybe it was dealers choice sort of deal. Anyway, I just used some of my now surplus flap seal for the secondary seal. Going from memory, but I think cost was about $250 CDN.
I found the secondary seal a very confusing topic. It is not shown in the parts manual, and I have seen several versions posted over the years. At any rate, Martin said I needed ~23 inches of material for the secondary seals, but it was not clear if that was per side or for both sides. Given the cost of his seal material I made do with what I had. I found an approximate 23” piece seemed to nicely extend from the fixed quarter window frame to the base of the door, so that is what I used.
My doors now fit better. A car wash test was mixed, as it was prior to installing the secondary seals. I got Niagara Falls quantities of water from the top if the doors by the hinges. I have not been able to to get to the car wash after adding the secondary seals, but I think they will do the trick as without them in place there is a giant opening at the top of the doors (ahead of the side window frames). The rest of the door water sealed well, although I may gave a bit of wind noise driver’s side.
Have added a few pictures below.
HTH
Stu in Canada
- Attachments
-
- This shows the top of the so-called Secondary Seal. It fits on to the winged protrusion on the front of the door in a similar fashion to the main seal fitting on the fibreglass door opening edge. As shown I used flap seal material. Although not tested yet, I expect it is less critical for dimension and and softness as there is so much leverage available to firmly crush it into place with the door closed. Note the Secondary Seal abuts to the primary door seal when door is closed
Last edited by stugilmour on Sun Dec 06, 2020 12:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
-
stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
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A couple more pictures as I almost lost my draft of the previous post.
- Attachments
-
- This is the top rear corner of the door showing the curved corner. Included as there was discussion about using a mitred cut here, but it is not necessary. When installing I found it best to go very deliberately around the corner and give the material time to relax. Previous efforts were not so good, and the corner would periodically detach. If the material doesn’t relax into place you may cut it too short at the junction. I see in the picture there is some exposed headliner material I should take a look at. Funny how it is easier to notice stuff in a picture.
-
- This shows the full length of the secondary seal. About 23” from the window frame down to the base of the door. Uses flap seal in my case. It is clearer in this picture that the seals are supposed to abut one another. I think the idea is the water is directed to outside the winged protrusion and drains down to the rocker where you can see the dust accumulation.
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
-
stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1942
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
I tried the MacGregor Bulb Seals on my Elan S3 FHC, and they made my doors stick out. Still looking for original spec smaller flap seals for my (baby) Elan.
1967 Lotus Elan FHC Spyder Chassis
1972 MGB (since 1975)
1972 MGB (since 1975)
- billmoore42
- Second Gear
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I have had 3 different +2 cars and none with a Seal fitted on the flanged protrusion.
The Secondary Seal is completly different. It is like a thin seal with a stripe of metal inside and riveted to the main Body about 20cms long. Next to the Light Switch Plunger.
What you show fitted to the Flange on top front of Door is not correct.
Sorry i don't have a photo of correct Seal.
Alan
PS just found photo of Drip Seal
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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A couple of more views of the secondary seal on an S4.
Note that the bead is on outside while the previous post shows it on the inside. Not sure which is correct as I did replace these during a recent repaint. Seems logical to have the bead on the outside in order to 1.) keep the metal strips and rivets dry and 2.) have the bead fold against the metal strip upon closure to make a tight seal.
Note that the bead is on outside while the previous post shows it on the inside. Not sure which is correct as I did replace these during a recent repaint. Seems logical to have the bead on the outside in order to 1.) keep the metal strips and rivets dry and 2.) have the bead fold against the metal strip upon closure to make a tight seal.
'69 Elan S4 SE
Street 181 BHP
Original owner
Street 181 BHP
Original owner
- 1owner69Elan
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Also on the +2 cars the Seal was much bigger and like foam rubberised which i think came from a Landrover. The metal stripe was hidden/moulded internaly, not possible to see only feel.
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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