Windscreen Problem

PostPost by: Grizzly » Sat May 30, 2015 9:51 am

Good spot,

I've sent them a mail about there screen rubber, the picture they have of said rubber has 90 degree corners? May well be a library picture but worth checking before purchase.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Wed Jun 10, 2015 5:41 pm

Just a progress report, Kelvedon have got back to me and it seems the corners are 90 degree's on that seal too.

I have also found the original lotus seal is Obsolete (has a finisher flap on the side, see picture) but i've had a play with some standard Claytonrite seal and it miters/bonds really well (found rubber contact adhesive works great) the trick is to cut it with a new blade so you get a nice clean cut. Now i've noticed the difference it turns out the SJ seal is made from the standard Claytonrite too.

I've only tried it on a length of scrap seal but i have confidence i can make a nice join now i've done it a few times.

Let me know if you have come across Claytonrite seal like the picture below, i'd love to make it as accurate as possible :)
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:46 pm

Chris,When you used the rubber contact adhesive, what procedure did you use? The usual cover both ends, let them completely dry, then fit them together? Did you tape or clamp them in anyway and leave them overnight...? Just curious. Thanks, Dan
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:03 pm

I applied as you stated above, when i pushed the two ends together it gripped well enough to hole its own weight so i just left the seal on the floor in its natural position overnight, next morning it had bonded well enough that i couldn't pull it apart.

If your planning on having a go i'd suggest a couple of practice attempts, the Bonding is surprisingly easy but the cutting takes a bit of perfecting.

I've also tried using PU glue now which doesn't set right away but if your cut isn't perfect it has more fill to it so works well, even this way isn't to difficult but you do have to rig some thing up to hold the edges straight and the seal in the correct position (i just bent a few bits of scrap 3mm of 6mm bar then gently zip tied and g clamped it in position). That said after 24 hours it stuck so well the rubber ripped rather than the joint failing when i tried to rip it apart.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:34 pm

I'm getting far too into this :roll:

After a lot of messing about, i've come to the conclusion PU glue gives the best result even though its more messing. I've found if i put 2" lengths of windscreen washer hose in the channels of the rubber when its cut it doesn't distort and then again when its bonded together it keeps the edges straight. When cutting the seal i used a thin black marker to put a line around the seal in the place i wanted to cut after measuring the angle out then using a brand new snap off Utility blade made the cut, the trick to the cut is to line it all up then apply pressure across the line and use the pressure / sharpness of the blade to make the cut in one fluid action (don't saw it or stop half way through) believe me it takes some practice but looks good in the end.

When bonding the best way i found is first fit a loose cable tie 1" from the end (loose enough so you can slide cable ties trough the loop) apply Black PU glue to both ends (nice coat don't go mad as it will ooze), have an assistant hold the two ends together while you slip the now 1" long lengths of washer hose in the channels of the rubber, once that is done slide cable ties under the two already fitted (i used three), tighten the two original ties up so they are 1/2" or so away from the joint and use the new looped ties to pull the joint together, don't just pull the cross ties tight as it will push all the glue out rather adjust to close any gaps, clean off any ooze with some thing like panel wipe,Thinners or white spirits and lay out the seal on the floor in the least stressed position 24 hours. Don't panic if there is any small gaps where the cut wasn't perfect you can fill these once dry with the PU glue.

My advice if you are thinking of doing this is to get an extra meter and have a few practice goes. Its more a technique than technically difficult, if you get it down the result looks like a bought one.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sat Jun 13, 2015 6:02 pm

Anxious to see the results :)
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PostPost by: bchris » Sat Jun 13, 2015 6:16 pm

Hi William,i initially had trouble putting my screen in despite being in the motor trade for 47 years,the way I found best was to fit the rubber to the aperture,give the recess were the glass goes a good dose of swarfega hand cleaner ,drop glass in bottom of rubber and get your corners in first by easing the rubber out with screwdriver or similar.its a case of being very careful,keep pressure up on screwdriver,dont let it touch the glass,work your way around,gently tapping glass in as you go,with other hand supporting the windscreen frame.mine initially looked so far out of shape you would think I had the wrong glass, ive had it out and back in again twice now without any problem. also make sure the rubber is back over the pillar trims fully. ive fitted scores of screens with the pull string method,but couldn't do it that way on the elan.
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Sat Jun 13, 2015 6:59 pm

How did you get the glass out of the gasket? Mine was only put in a year ago, but a large rock put an early end to the windscreen. I have a new windscreen, but would like to re-use the gasket if possible. Thanks, Dan
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PostPost by: bchris » Sun Jun 14, 2015 6:59 am

Hi Dan, to get it out I obviously took out the plastic infill beading,then slackened off the screw on the chrome centre tension rod,then gave it a good spray all round,especially at the top with GT85 or similar (wd40) spray it up under the rubber and tap it at the top with your hand and it pops out, once the top is out it comes out easy.it is important to get the spray up under the rubber, use the small plastic extension pipe on the nozzle of the spray is best.
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Sun Jun 14, 2015 1:37 pm

Thanks. The rock hit very close to the gasket in the upper left corner (looking from outside), so I will start in upper right as I am afraid, the screen will completely disintegrate when I get to the damaged corner. Dan
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Jun 14, 2015 2:19 pm

Windscreens should be laminated glass, so should not disintegrate, though parts of it may bend to strange angles and some bits of glass may fall off.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sun Jun 14, 2015 3:44 pm

Dan, wear Eye protection and gloves if the screen is cracked. It will stay in one piece but you get little splinters coming off as you move it about if its damaged, have a vacuum cleaner handy and give the area a good going over (the splinters get every where)

When you take the filler strip out and start to push the old glass out have some one on the out side just ready to catch it if it pops out, some times they take a bit of getting out if the rubber is old / cold and some times you push it in the right place and it will come out with a pop then bounce over your bonnet. :roll:
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Sun Jun 14, 2015 4:57 pm

Good advice. Thanks all. The damaged area is about 3" in diameter and pushed in about 1/4 inch, and while significantly fractured, still in one piece. It is one of the recently manufactured clear windscreens which I assume is laminated. I was not able to get clear for the new one. It is the original triplex design, which is slightly tinted, but very clearly 3 layers thick. I will cover the freshly painted bonnet with blankets and have a competent catcher at the ready. Gloves and googles all around. Dan
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PostPost by: William2 » Sun Jun 14, 2015 5:54 pm

Chris, thanks for your advice on fitting screens. I have National Windscreens coming tomorrow to fit mine. They say that they have done Elans before so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If they have problems I will mention the Swarfega trick! It's one of the few jobs I didn't want to tackle in case the screen broke. Not worth the risk at ?160 a go. William.
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PostPost by: bchris » Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:38 pm

Hope it all goes in OK William.
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