Frame Damage - Elan S2

[types26/36]

I agree Tony, the frame/chassis is a "replaceable item" and the is no point in making waves with the DVLA. I believe there was a recent discussion on this forum about it.

Ian,
As a point of interest where is the 26 A 701 stamped? the chassis no. should be on the frame just below the carbs.
Brian.

[gobw2]

[SIZE=14]It may not have been collision damage, that is where the upright rots out if the drain holes are not kept open. Looks like someone made makeshift repairs on the car, did not take measurements.

The crack and the drive shaft stressing of the metal do cause some concern. With a copy of the frame dimension sheet in the shop manual, a competent body shop could do a satisfactory repair, but that is not all that is required. the frame should be reinforced in all the usual places so it does not bend or crack.

The question is how much to do this VS a new one? I think the big issue is where you stand on originality. Even if you buy a new Lotus frame, it should be reinforced as per archive discussions. If not, it will get stress cracks in the usual places. If I were replacing, I would go for spyder due to increased rigidity and acessibility, especially ability to drop engine. Second choice would be Tony Thompson because he has reinforced the Lotus frame in all the right places.

George 67 S3 - with an original frame contemplating similar issues - At the moment, as mine does not have that damage, I am leaning toward reinforcing and reinstallling. Cost is a factor.

[Alpine_Ian]

<!--QuoteBegin-types26/36/74+Mar 23 2004, 03:35 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (types26/36/74 @ Mar 23 2004, 03:35 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> As a point of interest where is the 26 A 701 stamped? [/quote]
It's back towards the center of the frame. I'll take a picture when I get home tonight.

Is this damaged frame of value to anyone or is it scrap?

[Alpine_Ian]

Hi guys... Wanted to post a picture of my new painted frame.


It's been painted with red-oxide epoxy and I'm now ready to begin assembly of the suspension components.

I have run into one slight problem with one of the rear strut towers. One of my Konis actually came apart and the strut tube and the remainder is stuck inside the housing. I need to figure out how to remove it without damaging the strut tower or the threads at the top for the strut. Has anyone else ever seen anything like this before... I've never had this happen...

[rgh0]

Ian
It should not be to hard to pull out. I would have thought inversion and tapping the top of the tube against a block would release the remains of the shock absorber insert once the retainer in the top of the tube is removed.

If it requires pulling due to corrossion holding it in then an inside puller should be able to get a grip inside the hole in the top of the insert if the rod has come out. Alternatively you should be able to thread any hole in the top of the insert and fit a bolt and then pull on the bolt.

I can see the Sunbeam in your photo, is the competition prepared imp yours also ? My first cars and first experience developing engines was with imps 30 years ago while at university

Rohan

[type26owner]

If what's left of the shock body is just a smooth thin wall tube then I've found it's best to epoxy in an insert to apply the force for removal. Aluminum rod with a threaded holed to screw in a slide hammer would do it. Don't try prying against the steel tubing insert of the strut cause it's easily damaged. Apply heat to the aluminum body of the strut with at least two infared heat lamps. Loosely wrap the rest of the strut in aluminum cooking foil as an insulating blanket. Takes only about fifteen minutes for it to heat up to the point the hydrocarbon residue will start to smoke at about 150-200C. When it's smoking hot with some protective gloves on stick the end with the epoxy insert in a bucket of cold water to cool it down so the epoxy is at full strength. Slide hammer it out before the hot strut body end cools off much. Best done with two persons. You might have get into the shock body and grind away any remaining lip. Also probably have to roughen up the surface so the epoxy has a rough textured grippy surface to adhere too. If you don't own a die grinder then you'll need one to do this along with a burr for cutting metal. Normal stuff for a small machine shop to do for you if you can't do-it-yourself.

BTW, if the strut steel tube insert needs removal this the slick way to do that too. Except one can weld, braze or solder to the tube to make a good mechanical connection.

[Alpine_Ian]

Thanks for the advice guys. My weekend project will be getting that tube out of the strut tower. I've honestly not spent a lot of time on it. Sometime best to walk away and approach it again at a later date.

Yes, the Imp is mine. I'm prepping the yellow Alpine for a buddy who wants to start racing. I just purchased over 10 Imp engines and tons of Imp parts from a guy who used them in racing boats back in the late 60's & early 70's. Tons of new parts including cams and pistons... what a great find. I even got Weber DCOE carbs and intakes. I hope to have the imp ready this year sometime. I wanna get on the track!

[bs982367]

"There was a report recently that the original chassis is no longer to be made so if its an "Original Chassis" you want nows the time to buy while its still available.
Brian. "

If this information is right, what to do if we want to keep the genuine frame (I have to put a new one in my S4 and I do not want to fit a Spyder one).
Tks for the input !