Frozen bobbins
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We certainly are but what is good in the Aero Space Industry is easily good enough for a Lotus.
Wouldn't you think.
As you like it's your Lotus and your choice no problem.
Just looking for the easiest way to fix the problem.
There's more than one way to skin a Cat.
Amicalement Alan
Wouldn't you think.
As you like it's your Lotus and your choice no problem.
Just looking for the easiest way to fix the problem.
There's more than one way to skin a Cat.
Amicalement Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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alan.barker wrote:We certainly are but what is good in the Aero Space Industry is easily good enough for a Lotus.
Wouldn't you think.
As you like it's your Lotus and your choice no problem.
Just looking for the easiest way to fix the problem.
There's more than one way to skin a Cat.
Amicalement Alan
I'm not sure the material used in Lotus bobbins is often used for structural fastening in aerospace applications : I suspect the softness of the alloy may lead to the shearing force to be applied preferentially to the outside thread, with the risk of the corresponding coil moving around and eventually making its way out, etc... while this outside coil would be attached by the insert material, arguably stronger, if using a solid insert. I used coils myself quite often, but only when I can make sure the receiving material is solid and structurally homogeneous (the coil holding into it when being pushed from the inside by the fastener)
S4SE 36/8198
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Try to save the Bobbin. Hot and cold
cycles could do the job. Just heat the bolt, let the heat transfer into the bobbin and then give some Blue ice spray just on the bolt. Repeat several times. The bobbin it self will be ok. It’s the powdery MAZAK deposits and the steel rust that needs to crack apart. Also rusted bolt end protruding on the other bobbin side might need treatment.
This is how I get 30 year old brake lines separated on daily drivers
(Just saw it’s the chassis bolts - the heads might be stuck to the chassis, not only the bobbins. )
Anna
cycles could do the job. Just heat the bolt, let the heat transfer into the bobbin and then give some Blue ice spray just on the bolt. Repeat several times. The bobbin it self will be ok. It’s the powdery MAZAK deposits and the steel rust that needs to crack apart. Also rusted bolt end protruding on the other bobbin side might need treatment.
This is how I get 30 year old brake lines separated on daily drivers
(Just saw it’s the chassis bolts - the heads might be stuck to the chassis, not only the bobbins. )
Anna
1965 S2
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Donels wrote:Agreed. Just drilled all the bobbins in the body floor For chassis fitment and fitted helicoils. Much stronger and about 5 - 10 minutes per bobbin.
+1
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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Cheers Mike, will bear that in mind as I don't have any and have never done them before.
Meantime however a bit of good news - spent the afternoon on the project yesterday and manged to remove all bolts in the driver foot well including chassis except one seat bolt which sheared.
It would seem that patience eventually paid off as I've been 'feeding' them with GT85 for a few days now and it eventually did it's stuff.
Cheers
Jon
Meantime however a bit of good news - spent the afternoon on the project yesterday and manged to remove all bolts in the driver foot well including chassis except one seat bolt which sheared.
It would seem that patience eventually paid off as I've been 'feeding' them with GT85 for a few days now and it eventually did it's stuff.
Cheers
Jon
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As I stated earlier I just drilled through and popped in stainless steel bolts and nuts with big penny washers. This caused a bit of a discussion about mixing stainless with aluminium. I get that - but what I don't get is fitting Helicoils as an alternative as they are made of stainless steel!! Enlighten me please.
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TBG wrote:As I stated earlier I just drilled through and popped in stainless steel bolts and nuts with big penny washers. This caused a bit of a discussion about mixing stainless with aluminium. I get that - but what I don't get is fitting Helicoils as an alternative as they are made of stainless steel!! Enlighten me please.
in this specific case if the helicoils do hold well over time it would not be an issue, as they are not supposed to be taken out (actually getting the coils to weld themselves to the bobbin would even be favorable, if that takes places as much considering the alloy the bobbins are made of)
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
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"Enlighten me please. "
Sure same idea as original but stronger.
Won't rust.
Keeps original size Dia Screws.
Don't need someone on opposite side with Spanner on Nut while you tighten from below.
Lighter
How's that for a starters
As you like and it's your choice and it's nice to know there is different ways.
But please stay with Imperial Screws and don't mix with Metric
Alan
Sure same idea as original but stronger.
Won't rust.
Keeps original size Dia Screws.
Don't need someone on opposite side with Spanner on Nut while you tighten from below.
Lighter
How's that for a starters
As you like and it's your choice and it's nice to know there is different ways.
But please stay with Imperial Screws and don't mix with Metric
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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Yes,
but that means they won't move =no problem.
Alan
but that means they won't move =no problem.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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